The groove is escaped by means of a shallow rectangular channel leading up to the knife-edged crest of the ridge and an airy position. Continue along the knife-edge and descend to a notch by means of its right side using a prominent shark’s tooth-shaped horn. Continue up the crest using an awkward-to-enter sentry box en route to the next impending wall. This is clearly too steep for the scrambler, so head round to its left side and west face where two options present themselves:
Climb its west face – steep but on excellent holds. Scuttle along the crest and drop down its east side to gain the tilted platform of a large block.
A wide rectangular ramp leads up to the block. The right side of this is less steep, but more awkward than it looks; its cracks can be disconcertingly greasy. Use the channel formed by its right edge to gain height and at the top of the ramp hand-traverse left on excellent flaky holds beneath the block to gain its top more easily.
The steep, heavily featured wall above the block is – somewhat surprisingly – too difficult. Unfortunately the scrambler must sidle right from the block and gain an awkward heather runnel. Head up this and rejoin the crest.
Eventually the ridge falls back into a knife-edge and finally turns to grass as it abuts the supporting mass of the mountain. The path of the South Spur walking route is close by and soon leads to the summit.
Descents and combinations
The knee-wrecking South Spur provides the quickest and most convenient return to the start. Otherwise, descend by the East Ridge (see Route 1). It is a pity to waste hard-won altitude so this route makes an excellent alternative start to a traverse of the Carneddau ridges (Route 1), although with some imagination and boundless energy the Llech Ddu Spur (Route 5) could be descended and the east ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6) ascended to give a magnificent link-up.
ROUTE 3
Broad Gully Ridge 2+
An attractive setting with slightly less attractive ridge scrambling.
| Location | Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen (SH 659 619) |
| Grade | 2+* |
| Approach time | 45min |
| Altitude and aspect | 690m, north |
| Route length | An undertaking of moderate length. Height gain approximately 210m. |
| Conditions | This is an unpopular and vegetated north-facing crag and so the rocks, although generally reliable, are occasionally lichenous and greasy. Best after prolonged dry weather. |
Easy-angled rock on the inner flank of Pen yr Ole Wen is generally too vegetated for much worthwhile scrambling. This route finds the best of the rock, although its main purpose is to prolong time spent within the enchanting hollow of Cwm Lloer. Its merits should be judged accordingly.
Near the left side of the craggy headwall, the prominent couloir of Broad Gully extends from the floor of the cwm to the crest of the East Ridge. The route weaves up the blunt ridge to its left.
Approach
Via the A5 from Capel Curig or Bethesda. Park on the roadside near the bridge at Glan Dena (SH 668 605). Follow the track past Glan Dena almost to Tal y Llyn Farm. Turn right on a path by a stone wall, later crossing the wall by a ladder stile. Follow the stream, generally on its left side to avoid bogs. A faint path branching off from roughly 100m before the steeper rocks of the east face leads to Ffynnon Lloer. Passing the lake on its left side, continue towards the headwall and impressive face of Craig Lloer (Route 4). On nearing Craig Lloer, Broad Gully can be seen properly for the first time hidden on the left. Broad Gully Ridge ascends the blunt arête to the left of Broad Gully.
High above Ffynnon Lloer on Broad Gully Ridge
Ascent
From the lowest point of the left-bounding ridge, move up right 15m to a short compact rib that forms a second toe of the ridge. This is gained from its right side with an awkward step to get off the ground. Above are two longer left-to-right rising ribs with a grassy runnel in the middle. Either ribs or runnel can be climbed, with the upper, longer rib proving the hardest and best route. Continue to a ledge beneath an intimidating blank wall. The wall is too hard. Do not be tempted by the slippery vegetation of the easier-angled terrain on the right. Instead, move left to climb the diagonal left edge of the blank wall (an escape to easy terrain just left is always available). A prominent large pyramid face of compact rock now looms above and bars the way.
Roughly 6m to the left of the pyramid face are two obvious wedged boulders. These are often hazardously greasy and much harder than they look. They can be climbed directly at a tough little grade 3 (a fall from here is unthinkable). Much better is to reach the bottom wedged block, then facing left make a challenging heave to cross over the left-bounding rib. A gentle groove with an untrustworthy spike in it provides recovery. Climb the groove and rib then move right to cross above the line of the wedged boulders and ascend a short crack to gain another rib crest. Above, romp over boulders and heather to a scree shoulder.
Continue towards a short, shallow couloir. It is best to divert right for a final flourish on rock – although the steeper left-hand rock can be climbed or the shallow couloir trudged up – before exiting onto the East Ridge. The upper part of the East Ridge leads to the summit in about 10 minutes.
Descents and combinations
Descend by the East Ridge path. Alternatively, descend steeply angled grass and scree at the head of the cwm, flanking the north side of Craig Lloer (the Craig Lloer Spur (Route 4) can be reached using this alternative descent). See Route 2 for further combinations.
ROUTE 4
Craig Lloer Spur 3-
A fine short line of great exposure in a delightfully secluded cwm.
| Location | Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen (SH 658 621) |
| Grade | 3-** |
| Approach time | 45min |
| Altitude and aspect | 730m, east |
| Route length | One of the shorter lines, it goes much more quickly than might be expected from below. Roughly 210m vertical height gain. |
| Conditions | Craig Lloer catches the morning sun and dries quickly. |
| Topo | See Route 3 |
Sustained scrambling begins and ends on the compact buttress of Craig Lloer, a triangular