Footwear: Specialist climbing approach shoes designed for scrambling and easy climbs are produced by all the major climbing brands and are recommended for scramblers venturing onto the grade 2 and 3 routes. However, be aware that approach shoes have their downsides: their soft soles can wear down very quickly; they offer very little ankle support; are no fun during boggy or wet approaches; and are not great on mud, wet grass or angular scree. Lightweight walking boots, particularly those with a firm (not rigid) rather than floppy midsole, are also good for scrambling – especially on easier routes that involve a lot of hiking. Rigid-soled mountaineering boots are unnecessarily clumsy and uncomfortable for scrambling.
Rucksack: Choose a neat daysack, ideally fitted with stabilising waist and chest straps but with as few other fittings as possible. Remember, ‘light is right!’
Rope: The typical 50m or 60m single and double ropes used for climbing are unduly heavy and cumbersome for scrambling, where a rope is often needed only for a short section of the overall route. The best compromise might be 30–50m of 9mm diameter half-rope. Half-rope can be used double in ascent and will allow significant abseils. Better, although more expensive, is a specialised superlight 9mm single rope. If using either a half-rope or a narrow diameter single rope, scramblers should be aware of its limitations: it is unlikely to be ‘sharp-edge’ tested and will wear out faster.
Note
The Devil’s Kitchen (Route 49) requires an abseil. Yr Esgair (Route 53) requires exactly 50m of rope to reach a good belay on its hard step.
It is essential your rope is a climbing rope with a ‘dynamic’ quality (in other words it must be capable of stretching to help absorb the energy of a fall), so it is no use buying caving or yachting rope, which has a low-stretch ‘static’ quality. Note that rope sold off the reel in 8mm diameters or less for making into runners and slings is low-stretch ‘static’ rope and should not be used as a main rope for scrambling. The rope should carry the UIAA label of approval.
Practising ropework at the difficult chockstone in Main Gully, Glyder Fach (Route 32)
Harness: The days of back breaking by tying a rope around your waist are long gone. Ensure you have a UIAA-rated climbing harness with a belay/abseil loop.
Other protection equipment: On some of the more technical routes, especially grade 3 and 3S routes, it is a good idea to include: three or four Nylon or Dyneema slings of 120cm and 240cm in length with a minimum 22KN rating; three additional screwgate locking karabiners; two HMS karabiners and two belay devices (although knowing how to use an Italian/Munter hitch belay, a waist belay and a direct belay are essential skills).
The benefits offered by additional gear – such as extra protection and speed in setting up belays – need to be weighed against the hindrance of carrying it. Nonetheless, it is well worth supplementing slings with a very small selection of mixed-sized nuts (for speed of placement include one each of Wild Country or DMM nut sizes 1 to 8 and one larger hex or chock). Include four quickdraws. Cams are not essential, but Wild Country Friend-size cams 1, 2 and 3 can be handy on harder routes. All equipment should conform to the current UIAA and CE standards.
Helmets: The slight irritation experienced when wearing a climbing helmet must be weighed against the partial but valuable protection it offers against falling stones or glancing blows sustained during a fall. Wearing or not wearing a helmet is entirely a matter of personal choice. For routes where friable or ‘suspect’ rock is noted under ‘Conditions’, such as Sentries’ Ridge or the Western Terrace of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, a helmet is a good idea even if solo.
Basic rope technique
Instruction in rope technique is beyond the scope of this guide. Rock climbers and mountaineers will be able to adapt their normal belay methods to suit scrambling terrain. Hill walkers will need instruction from experienced companions. Failing that, they may wish to enrol on a course at an outdoor centre (advertised online or in specialist climbing/outdoor magazines). Climbing instruction guidebooks and reputable online videos are invaluable reference points, but are no substitute for face-to-face instruction and practice.
Maps
The vast majority of routes appear on the OS Explorer OL17 1:25,000 Snowdon – Conwy Valley sheet. The Rhinogs are covered by OL18 and Cadair Idris by OL23. The location of every scramble in this book is shown on OS mapping in the relevant chapters. For longer ridge circuits and lengthy isolated outings, the entire routes are shown on the maps. Do not rely on a smartphone as a substitute for a map.
Strutting up the Catwalk of the Chasm Face (Route 31)
Access
Approaches have been carefully described to avoid crossing land where access is restricted or in dispute. Improvising unrecognised approaches across lower pastures merely antagonises farmers. Besides, there is plenty of scope for wandering at will on the higher ground.
Bases
For the Carneddau and Glyders routes, a base in the Ogwen Valley is best. Those with private transport will find anywhere between Capel Curig and Bethesda will do. Both villages provide basic amenities and a range of accommodation can be found throughout the valley, including campsites (those offering facilities are marked on OS maps – enquire locally for other sites); bunkhouses; youth hostels (Idwal and Capel Curig – the latter is now privately run); bed and breakfast; and hotels.
For routes in the Snowdon group, the best bases are the Llanberis Pass and, to a lesser extent, Nant Gwynant. Both have campsites and bunkhouse accommodation (Nant Peris has two campsites and a pub). Bed and breakfast and hotel accommodation, along with amenities, can be found in and around Llanberis and Beddgelert and there are youth hostels at Bryn Gwynant, Llanberis, the Snowdon Ranger at Llyn Cwellyn and Pen y Pass.
Most people will visit Eifionydd and the outlying areas from a base in the northern mountains or on separate trips. Dolgellau is a good base for Cadair Idris.
Further information can be found in Appendix C.
Public transport
Regular rail and bus services link Conwy to Bangor and Betws-y-Coed. Bus routes from Caernarfon extend only as far as Nant Peris and Beddgelert. At the time of writing there was no service along the Ogwen Valley road from Bethesda to Capel Curig – a situation likely to change. In summer the Sherpa bus service makes a circuit around the Snowdon group by linking Beddgelert and Nant Peris via Pen y Gwryd. This service is extremely useful, allowing car owners to park and ride up to Pen y Pass and facilitating other unusual combinations of ascent and descent routes (search Sherpa bus timetable for details).
The remote cliffs of Craig Cwm Du (Route 75)
Accidents and emergencies
Always carry a small first aid kit (see ‘Equipment’) and know how to use it. Consider attending an emergency first aid course including CPR. The National Mountain Centre (www.pyb.co.uk) runs these in Snowdonia and St John Ambulance (www.sja.org.uk) has details of affordable, regular courses across the UK.
With minor injuries, especially during cold or wet weather, it is nearly always best to keep moving – so attempt to descend the mountain by a known route. The danger from hypothermia in mountains is often much greater than the danger from a broken arm or a sprained ankle. Use a whistle to summon help from others on the mountain (sequence of six blasts). Head torch flashes are common on these mountains at night and less likely to raise an alarm (use a sequence of six flashes).
Take