Ascent
The broad, scree-covered Amphitheatre bed rises steeply to a series of ribs and gullies, at the right-hand side of which will be found a short slimy and mossy gully. It is bounded on its right by an imposing steep crag and has slabs to its left. Use the slabs to gain a small recess above the nasty bottom of the gully. To exit the recess a pile of unstable blocks embedded in eroded soil are hazardous and require caution: ensure seconds are out of the debris line and use the solid rib on the right to progress up to a second recess.
The second recess has two exits:
For the best and safest line, head up the left gully branch (actually C Gully) for a few metres to a large chockstone. Avoid tackling the chockstone directly; instead use the left wall to gain height before moving back onto it. From here an easy if exposed traverse rightwards leads back to the original gully line.
A harder exit right via good holds leads up a short, steep wall that is often wet and slippery – at which times it is best avoided. Step left to gain a clean, slanting slab which is climbed with difficulty in a precarious position.
Pick the easiest line leftwards to gain a series of clean rock staircases that zig-zag to the top. A right turn leads up the ridge path up to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn.
Foxgloves at the starting slabs of Craig yr Ysfa Ampitheatre
Descent by this route
Not recommended without prior knowledge of the route and a thorough assessment having been made of the hazardous section.
Descents and combinations
From the top of Craig yr Ysfa there are several options:
After emerging from the Amphitheatre, turn left to follow the ridge path via a simple scramble down a rock nose to Bwlch Eryl Farchog. Refer to the approach notes for continuing the descent into Cwm Eigiau or the Ogwen Valley.
For a more interesting return to the Ogwen Valley, follow Route 1 in reverse over Carnedd Dafydd and Pen yr Ole Wen or its conclusion over Pen yr Helgi Du.
Route 6 can be reached using its second approach (from the main Carnedd ridge path).
THE GLYDERS
Tackling the awkward start of Cneifion Arête (Route 40)
The Glyders
The finest scrambling in North Wales is to be found in the Glyders, either within rock-walled cwms or along the crests of intervening ridges. Hence the large number of routes described in this section.
The medium is almost always reliable – rotten rock and treacherous vegetation being limited to a small number of notorious cliffs ignored by this guide.
The mountains described in this section – the two Glyders and neighbouring Tryfan, Y Garn, Foel Goch and Carnedd y Filiast – occupy most of the high ground between the Llanberis and Ogwen valleys. In simplified terms the range consists of a string of summits lying parallel to the A5 between Bethesda and Capel Curig.
ROUTE 8
Cwm Bochlwyd Horseshoe 1
A classic horseshoe ridge traverse incorporating some of the greatest scrambling in the Glyders.
| Location | Glyders, Ogwen |
| Grade | 1*** |
| Circuit time | 5hr |
| Route length | 9km |
| Conditions | Extremely popular during fine summer weekends. The highly polished rock – unpleasant but not especially difficult to climb when wet – soon dries after rain during warm or breezy weather. Bristly Ridge is exposed to strong crosswinds. |
| Topo | Also see Routes 19, 29, 38 and 39 |
This exhilarating ridge traverse is similar in quality and difficulty to the Snowdon Horseshoe. In circling Cwm Bochlwyd it visits the summits of Tryfan and Glyder Fach; ascends two classic ridges – the North Ridge of Tryfan and Bristly Ridge on Glyder Fach; and descends two lesser ones – the South Ridge of Tryfan and the Gribin Ridge. All these components of the traverse are described separately later, but for convenience links are described here.
Approach
From Capel Curig or Bethesda along the A5. Park in the lay-by (SH 663 603) below the Milestone Buttress, a prominent feature on the lower west side of the North Ridge of Tryfan.
Ascent/Descent
Ascent of Tryfan via the North Ridge: See Route 19.
Scramblers finding a route up Tryfan’s North Ridge on the Cwm Bochlwyd Horseshoe
Descent from Tryfan via the South Ridge (Route 29): Traverse to the South Summit then descend the South Ridge, generally by its gentler west side, to the broad col between South and Far South summits. Again avoid difficulties by flanking the Far South Summit on the west side (although the adventurous may prefer to stay roughly with the crest for additional challenge) and then descend to Bwlch Tryfan (SH 662 588).
Ascent of Glyder Fach via Bristly Ridge: See Route 30.
Descent from Glyder Fach via the Gribin Ridge (Route 38): From the summit, continue south west for 300m to the fairytale Castell y Gwynt (Castle of the Wind). For added interest this can be scrambled over directly or, much faster, is passed on the left by a path to Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder (SH 652 582). Ignore the continuation of the path to Glyder Fawr and instead circle the rim of Cwm Bochlwyd for a further 200m onto the promontory above the Gribin Ridge. Descend the ridge by scrambling on the well-travelled crest to a broad level grassy section (alternatively the scrappier scree and scramble path to the left can be used). Continue along the east side of the ridge until a grassy path curves right and descends to the Llyn Bochlwyd outflow. Descend the path on the west bank of the stream then, after the angle eases, cross the stream and pick a rightward diagonal descent over boggy ground with occasional paths to gain the A5 at a large car park (SH 659 601) less than 500m from the start.
Tryfan (917m)
Tryfan’s distinctive shape dominates the view when approaching Llyn Ogwen from either direction along the A5 road. Pundits say you can’t climb the mountain without at some point using your hands for support. Two erect monoliths, Adam and Eve, tip the spectacular summit; daring extroverts will entertain the gathering by attempting the traditional leap from one to the other.