Circle the rim of Cwm Lloer northwards for 700m and ascend a broad ridge for 500m to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. Descend east for 1.5km on a rocky path, then curve north for a further 1km around the rim of Cwm Llafar where a few small steps of scrambling interest can be sought by going over the rocky knobbles on the way to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn. Here there are retrospective views of the Black Ladders and Llech Ddu.
Take the ridge east then south east for 1km, passing around the head of the Craig yr Ysfa Amphitheatre, and descend by a 20m scramble over a gently angled rock nose to Bwlch Eryl Farchog (there is a short-cut descent south from here to Ogwen). Walk or scramble very easily up the rocky ridge ahead to the summit of Pen yr Helgi Du.
Descend the grass ridge of Y Braich southwards for about 2km. On passing through a gap in the transverse stone wall at SH 699 609, contour right on a small path then descend diagonally to cross the leat (manmade watercourse) at a footbridge just left of a stone wall. Turn right and follow the leat to the surfaced Ffynnon Llugwy access road, which leads down to the A5. Follow the main road rightwards for 50m or so, but then turn off left up the track towards the Gwern Gof Isaf campsite. After 100m a bridleway on the right is followed to Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite, where a choice of two paths leads back to the parking near Glan Dena.
Pen yr Ole Wen (978m)
The inelegant bulk of Pen yr Ole Wen protrudes south from the main mass of the Carneddau, introducing a kink into the Ogwen Valley where the outflow from Llyn Ogwen gushes down into the broad U-shaped valley of the Nant Ffrancon. For those based in the Ogwen Valley this is the most accessible of the Carneddau peaks, offering unrivalled views of the northern crags and cwms of the Glyders.
Unaccountably, the most popular walking route zig-zags up the unpleasant and exhausting south spur from Ogwen Cottage; connoisseurs choose the scenic and comparatively gentle East Ridge. An ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen by either route is generally regarded as a mere preliminary to a traverse of the higher Carneddau peaks.
The featureless south east slope above Llyn Ogwen holds no interest for the scrambler, whereas the pseudo-alpine west (or Braich Ty Du) face, ribbed with ridges and riven with gullies, promises all sorts of adventure. Otherwise the best scrambling will be found at the head of Cwm Lloer, tucked out of sight behind the East Ridge.
ROUTE 2
Braich Ty Du Face (including Pinnacle Ridge and Porcupine Ridge) 2+
Exposed scrambling on an introductory ridge followed by a big hike to reach the rock arêtes of the upper face that lead, with increasing difficulty and excitement, to the summit slopes.
| Location | Pen yr Ole Wen, Ogwen (SH 648 611) |
| Grade | 2+** |
| Approach time | 15min |
| Altitude and aspect | 360m, west |
| Route length | Despite the short approach, a lengthy outing with over 500m of height gain – allow plenty of time. Pinnacle Ridge on its own offers a quick burst of scrambling when time is limited. |
| Conditions | West-facing and quick-drying, this is a good choice when the north faces are likely to be cold or damp. Nevertheless, it is worth waiting for dry rock, especially for the airy pinnacles. The less-frequented Porcupine Ridge requires an astute judgement of holds, although the rock is generally sound. Good visibility is vital for the approach to Porcupine Ridge. |
A huge, complex face of ribs and gullies rises above the Nant Ffrancon Pass, appearing to provide endless opportunities for the scrambler. Unfortunately there are two main drawbacks: first, a large part of the lower slope consists of unstable scree which threatens to cascade onto the road at the first ill-judged step and thus limits the access; and second, a wide band of heather at mid-height seriously affects continuity. The selected route does its best to avoid both scree and heather and despite its shortcomings redeems itself with some exciting situations and, on the upper face, a genuine sense of exploration.
Many parties will choose to ascend only the easily accessible and popular Pinnacle Ridge – a good outing when short on time. For those intrepid enough to venture onwards to the Porcupine Ridge, they will find it surpasses the first ridge and is worth every drop of sweat exerted in reaching it. There is, perhaps, no better place to be in the late afternoon sunshine than on the Porcupine Ridge.
Approach
Park at Ogwen Cottage (SH 649 604) – approximately 150m east of YHA Idwal Cottage – or at the overspill parking areas further east. Leave the A5 at the Alfred Embleton stile, on the north side of the road bridge over the stream outlet from Llyn Ogwen, and follow the main Pen yr Ole Wen path for 80m. Turn left on a grassy path near some round stone shelters and follow the well-walked path to the base of the couloir on the right of the distinctive slender twin pinnacles that become identifiable on the approach. Ascend the couloir directly until a low dry stone wall is reached. A clear path accesses a scrappy part of the ridge 10m below the wall, although a pleasant grass gangway 10m above the wall provides the best access to the ridge.
Ascent
Use the gangway to gain the ridge. Follow the crest to a ledge then ascend a 3m step, slightly on the right using large holds, to gain another ledge. An exposed traverse of the pinnacles awaits. They can be taken on their couloir flank leading to a heather shoulder and slender grass col, but few will want to miss the photogenic ascent of the second pinnacle. This can be climbed and traversed on its west side at an exposed and exciting upper-end grade 2. (The first pinnacle is a much trickier undertaking, especially the descent from its top; it receives a V-Diff climbing grade and should only be considered by roped climbing parties.) Pinnacle Ridge ends at the slender grass col, where a path down the couloir leads back to the approach.
At the first pinnacle of the Braich Ty Du Face, with the profile of Yr Esgair beyond
For adventurous scramblers the next objective is the cluster of ribs seen on the left side of the upper face – but steel yourself for a big hike. A broad, steep and grassy couloir – often wet and slippery – above and slightly left of Pinnacle Ridge avoids a blocky buttress and emerges onto an open slope of grass and heather. Alternatively, the couloir on the right of the blocky buttress is circuitous but drier and easier (its hidden east face offers various lines of roughly Diff standard) – at its top use a sheep path to move back left.
Plod up heather and scree (ignore any well-worn transverse sheep paths) towards a line of low, broken outcrops that are passed on their right. (The first outcrop gives a heathery scramble.) Take a rising leftward line to gain the left skyline ridge with an obvious cracked triangular face near its base set above a collection of spikes which, without stretching our imagination too far, we could call the Porcupine. (There is a second ridge over to the right across a couloir that has an imposing overhanging prow on it.)
Start in the middle of the porcupine spines and head up to reach the cracked triangular face where the rocks coalesce into a continuous ridge. Tackle the triangular face