ROUTE 6
Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders 2
A distinctive outing up shadowy cliffs on the huge headwall of a remote cwm.
| Location | Cwm Llafar, Carneddau (SH 673 633) |
| Grade | 2* |
| Approach time | 1hr 15min |
| Altitude and aspect | 800m, north west |
| Route length | One of the shorter routes, but lengthier than might be expected while approaching it. Height gain approximately 150m. |
| Conditions | North-facing at high altitude so often wet. The rock is rough and positive, although it is rarely ascended so watch for occasional loose rock. It is worth waiting for dry conditions. |
| Topo | See Route 5 |
The upper basin of Cwm Llafar terminates in the crescent walls of the Black Ladders. Upper ridge crests glow attractively in the afternoon sun while shady lower walls ooze ugliness and impregnability. Almost no-one comes here in summer. The solitary scramble on this face takes the ridge of the left-bounding buttress which, broad and poorly defined, only gathers itself into a recognisable line at two-thirds height. Nonetheless, the atmosphere is terrific and the scramble is deceptively long and interesting.
Approach
There are two logical approaches:
As for Route 5 to the huge boulders below Llech Ddu. Continue towards the head of the cwm over man-trapping boulders, then trend left to arrive beneath the easternmost rocks of the face.
It is also possible to descend from the main Carnedd ridge path, starting around SH 678 634 then trending west north west (if doing so, it is reassuring to drop below the band of black dripping rock to confirm your position on the face).
Ascent
A broad-based buttress tapering to a ridge defines the left side of the Black Ladders. As elsewhere on the cliffs, horizontal bands of dark dripping rock prevent a direct approach to the foot of the buttress proper. These are best flanked on the left, followed by a rising traverse back right when the terrain eases. This approach gains the buttress at the same level as the start of East Gully, the foot of which is also terminated prematurely by the black-dripping banding.
On Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders with the Menai Strait beyond
Although there are many possible lines to take on the buttress, even the easiest of them involves some awkward steps. Stay with the rough steep rock on the crest just to the left of the gully as much as possible. A little higher the gully to your right splits with a rib in its middle: stay left, continuing directly on the narrowing ridge for the best scrambling. A final steepening can be avoided on the left.
The route emerges suddenly onto level ground with the main Carneddau ridge path nearby. The summit of Carnedd Dafydd lies a few minutes away to the west.
Descents and combinations
As for Route 5.
Carnedd Llewelyn (1064m)
Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest peak of the group, occupies a key position at the junction of the two major Carneddau pathways. Its four supporting ridges are aligned approximately south, west, north and east. The southern ridge drops gently to the shallow col of Bwlch Cyfryw-drum (a descent into Cwm Llafar is possible from here) before curving west above the cliffs of Black Ladders and rising to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. The short west ridge drops only to a high col before rising again to the summit of Yr Elen, a major satellite peak. The north ridge extends in gradual descent towards Foel Grach, Foel Fras and the gentle hills beyond. Finally, the east ridge curves south east, passing above the cliffs of Craig yr Ysfa, and dips to the pronounced col of Bwlch Eryl Farchog before rising again to the summit of Pen yr Helgi Du. All ridges apart from the west ridge carry well-used paths.
The only face of any real interest to the scrambler is that of Craig yr Ysfa, which lies some distance from the summit on the flanks of the east/south east ridge. The cliff is hidden from most viewpoints, and so a special effort is required even to inspect what’s on offer. There is even an unlikely story that would have us believe the cliff was discovered by telescope from Scafell.
Although the cliffs are extensive, heather covers much of the easier-angled rock, while loose rock or vegetation fills the most promising gullies. The selected scramble avoids the worst by finding a comparatively uncomplicated exit from the huge central Amphitheatre. The Amphitheatre is in fact a deep, square-cut recess set above a sloping bed of scree. It is bounded on the right by a 90m-high vertical wall of superb rock, Mur y Niwl – host to some of the best Carneddau rock climbs – and on the left by the 300m-long terraced rib of Amphitheatre Buttress – a classic V-Diff rock climb.
ROUTE 7
Craig yr Ysfa Amphitheatre 2+
The central ravine of a remote cliff is escaped via slabs, a short gully and a natural staircase of rock steps.
| Location | Craig yr Ysfa, Carnedd Llewelyn (SH 694 637) |
| Grade | 2+* |
| Approach time | 1hr 30min from Tal y Bont or 1hr 45min from the Ogwen Valley via Bwlch Eryl Farchog |
| Altitude and aspect | 700m, east |
| Route length | Surprisingly short considering the crag it breaches. Height gain approximately 150m. |
| Conditions | One short section of this route has been affected by erosion and requires caution to avoid dislodging hazardous blocks. Otherwise the rock is mainly sound on the difficult bits. The cliff gets the morning sun in summer. Dries relatively quickly. |
Hopes for an easy exit from Craig yr Ysfa’s Amphitheatre fade when the options are viewed from its confines. None of the lines appear entirely free of complication. The right-hand gully (D Gully) presents the least number of obstacles so received the honour of selection, although some may feel the route lacks stature. The route ought to be valued for its majestic setting more than for the quality of its scrambling, which proves limited.
Approach
The first option is via Cwm Eigiau. From Tal y Bont on the B5106 between Conwy and Llanrwst, follow a road rising westwards out of the village (not the road to Llanbedr-y-Cennin) for about 5km. Park at the roadhead at the entrance to Cwm Eigiau (SH 732 663), taking care not to obstruct the gate. Walk along a rough track to the Llyn Eigiau dam. Follow the main left branch of the track to cross the outflow. Continue by the lower track and follow it through the cwm to its terminus at ruined quarry buildings. Take a path initially on the left side of the cwm to avoid the worst of the marshy ground. Head up towards the left side of the crag, dodging the bulk of the scree, and join a rising traverse path leading to the Amphitheatre (SH 694 637).
The second option is from the A5 in the Ogwen Valley. Park in a lay-by at the start of the reservoir access road (SH 688 603) or the car park for the campsite (small fee). Walk up