The final category is street machine, which can be just as detailed as a show car, but without the concern for original, date-coded, or factory appearing components. When building a car that will not be judged in stock class competition, anything goes because the car is graded only for build quality and cleanliness. There is no need to source era-correct hose clamps or bolts with factory-correct head markings when building a street machine, and that can mean a big savings of time and money.
Deciding which type of car you want to have at the end of the project is the decision that you should make before you begin.
Complete or Partial Restoration
Another choice that is crucial to the success of your project is deciding on the level of restoration to be performed. If your project is in sound mechanical condition and your goal is a nice weekend driver, you may prefer to keep driving the car while you restore it, one system or section at a time. You may have the car painted first, then upgrade the interior, have the chrome parts replated, and so on as time and funds allow until the project is completed to your satisfaction. Most of this can be accomplished without taking the car off the road for extended periods of time, or you can do it exclusively in the off-season.
A show-quality restoration is best accomplished all at once so everything is fresh and new at the same time. For this reason a show car generally requires a larger investment, and a minimum of one year in the shop instead of on the road. Once finished, a show car also requires special handling and storage procedures to maintain its “just finished” appearance.
Yet another choice is a partial restoration, the perfect solution for a clean, original car that doesn’t require an extensive amount of work. A car like this may only need underhood detailing, some paint touch-up, or upholstery work.
Factory original cars are a treasure, so be sure to examine your project carefully and consider all of your options before deciding on a complete restoration.
Don’t believe what you see on those automotive reality television shows. Even a partial restoration can take months or even years depending on the amount of time dedicated to it. With only evenings and weekends to work on your project, some months pass with little progress to show for the hours spent working on the car. Don’t become discouraged after setting an unrealistic deadline for completing your restoration, and don’t cut corners just to finish it on time. There will still be car shows and cruise-ins when your project is finished regardless of when that happens to be!
Having adequate room to work is another important factor in the success of your project. A disassembled car takes two to three times more space than an assembled one, and that doesn’t include the workspace. A minimum requirement for any restoration is a two-car garage, assuming that there is additional indoor space available elsewhere for parts storage.
Renting additional space for storing parts, or even to house the car once it’s finished may be a workable solution for someone without enough garage space. However, expect to pay well over $100 per month for only enough space to park one car, and that gets you only a concrete floor and a door. Liability concerns generally preclude any repairs or restoration work from being performed at a rented storage facility. Also be sure that any cars or valuable parts stored in other locations are insured against theft, fire, and other loss, just as they should be when stored at home.
After deciding on the type and level of restoration best suited to your particular situation, the next step is to form a realistic budget for successfully completing the project in the time allowed. Your budget needs to include the car itself if you don’t already own it, storage or workspace if you are planning to rent it, tools and equipment that need to be purchased, all parts and supplies, plus any labor for work that is done by others.
Start by checking current prices online for the equipment and parts that you know will be needed. Fulltime AMC vendors such as American Parts Depot and Kennedy American have online catalogs that can be used to check pricing for reproduction parts. Don’t forget to include shipping charges and state sales tax if applicable. Check eBay or the AMC forums to get an idea of pricing for some of the obsolete parts that are not being reproduced.
Pricing for used parts varies greatly even within the same AMC show or swap meet. Although the going price for a solid front fender may appear to be $250, keep looking for a better price; you can generally go back and purchase the more expensive one later if needed. However, you won’t be able to return it if you find a less expensive one. For the purpose of making your budget, estimate high for any used parts just in case bargains never appear.
Ask friends or fellow club members with similar cars how much you can expect to spend for some of the hard-to-find parts, bodywork, paint, chrome plating, and so on. Call a machine shop, and visit some local body shops if your car will be going to one. If possible drive the car or take it on a trailer to get actual estimates. But don’t be surprised if more than one body shop shows little or no interest in working on an older collector car. Most body shop work schedules are dictated by the insurance companies, so late-model collision work always comes first. Be sure to ask for referrals when networking with other local car guys.
Budget high for everything, total it up, and then add 50 percent as a cushion. With this number in hand you may now decide how to disburse the funds for the restoration. It may not be practical to allocate a set amount per month for completing the project, because some aspects of the restoration will cost much more than others. Engine rebuilding or bodywork and paint require a much larger percentage of the total budget, and generally must be paid for all at once.
With some careful planning, a bit of luck, and the information in this book, you may complete your project on time and under budget, or at least not too far over it!
Maintain a comprehensive file for every collector car that you own. Include receipts for any service that you have done, as well as for all parts purchased for the project. Many replacement parts carry a lifetime warranty, so keeping all of your receipts together and in order by date may pay off in the future. Your receipt file also becomes a running total of roughly how much you have invested in the project to date.
By now you are eager to begin unbolting parts, and it’s almost time! Just be sure that everything is in order before you begin.
Adequate workspace is crucial to the success of any restoration project. This includes room for the car’s body, all of the parts that have been removed, all of the new parts, plus ample space to move around and work on subassemblies such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, and seats. Any parts left outside are at risk of theft or damage from the elements, so make room indoors for everything before you begin.
A large, well-lit pole building or multi-car garage with a level, concrete floor is ideal, especially if it is a dedicated workspace uncluttered with bicycles, furniture, lawn equipment, or the cars you drive every day. If you live in a climate with cold weather, a small portion of your shop or other large building can be walled off and heated during winter months. Even a temporary enclosure framed with wood and covered with clear plastic sheeting retains heat, and also