Be sure to practice with some scrap steel before attempting any important repairs on your restoration project. Get the feel for setting the voltage and wire speed for the particular thickness of metal that you are joining. Serious structural repairs are best left to someone with considerable welding experience, but before long, you will be taking care of most smaller welding jobs yourself.
A quality MIG welding setup can be used for a variety of body jobs and other metal repairs. Using the proper settings along with a shielding gas allows you to weld anything from frame rails to thin outer-body sheet metal. With some practice you will become proficient with your MIG and amaze your friends with your welding expertise.
Workbench, Etc.
Other necessities for a well-equipped shop include a workbench with a large vice, several pairs of sturdy jack stands, a good quality 3-ton (minimum) floor jack, and some short lengths of heavy-duty chain. If you don’t plan to restore multiple cars, some larger pieces of equipment such as an engine hoist can often be borrowed from friends, or rented as needed. This saves the initial expense as well as having to store a lot of extra equipment that is used infrequently.
Security
Protect your tools and equipment from prying eyes. Whenever possible, position your toolbox, air compressor, or welder where they cannot be seen from the street, or viewed through a window in your garage or shop. Unfortunately, thieves are everywhere, so the less temptation the better.
Always lock your shop or storage building when you are away, and have a permanent nighttime or motion-detector outdoor security light if your building is not in a well-lit area. If the safety of your equipment is still in doubt install a security system that can be monitored remotely.
Throughout this book there are references to tools that can be dangerous if used incorrectly, as well as equipment that can lift heavy things, become extremely hot, or release caustic chemicals into the air that you breathe. Although not stated every time, remember to always practice the safety recommendations specified for the use of this equipment. This includes using safety goggles, welding gloves and helmet, dust mask, face shield, hearing protection, and a breathing respirator.
Never run an engine without adequate ventilation. Have multiple fire extinguishers within easy reach, and check them periodically to be sure they will work if needed. Automotive ramps or cinder blocks are no substitute for a floor jack and sturdy jack stands used on a level, concrete surface. Always use wheel chocks for any vehicle that could roll away, and never crawl underneath a car supported only by a jack! No car project is worth serious injury or death.
Always keep your work area neat, well lit, and organized. Put away any tools and sweep the floor after each work session. Never place parts, tools, or other items on the hood or roof of your project car because it’s only a matter of time until something falls off and hits you on the head. Besides, you wouldn’t set something on your collector car when it’s finished, so break that habit now!
If you are welding, using torches, or even a body grinder, considerable heat is being generated. Don’t finish working for the day and close up the shop or garage without double-checking that nothing is smoldering or left on. Localized heat created by welding can easily ignite carpet padding, sound deadener, undercoating, or even a mouse nest hidden behind the panel you are repairing. Always check your welds and other hot spots after several minutes to be sure nothing is smoking or hot to the touch. Be sure that everything in the vicinity is at room temperature before leaving for the day.
Now that your work area, tools, and equipment are in order, the first step of your AMC muscle car restoration is the initial cleaning, inspection, and inventory of your project. Start by giving the car a thorough hand wash using a strong stream of water to flush out all of the window channels, as well as the underbody and wheel wells. Degrease and gently rinse the engine compartment if needed and allow to air dry. Use caution with steam cleaning or pressure washing because fragile parts may be damaged or important original markings can be removed. It may take longer but it’s better to use a liquid degreaser and soft parts cleaning brush followed by rinsing with clean water. Remove any clutter or extra parts from the trunk or passenger compartment. Use a shop vacuum to clean up the trunk floor, interior carpet, and seats. Deduct the value of any coins found inside from the initial cost of the car!
After washing the engine compartment take a complete series of close-up photos. This one includes the wiring harness installation, windshield washer hose tee, and even a metal retainer used to secure the main washer hose to the harness. Also note the small round seal where the windshield washer nozzle passes through the cowl.
The first step for any restoration is to give the car a good hand wash outside, underneath, and under the hood. You may want to do this right on the trailer so you can reach the underbody and wheel wells more easily. After degreasing the engine, rinse it with clean water and allow it to dry in the sun. A pressure washer or even compressed air used to dry the engine compartment can obliterate valuable original details.
Use a digital camera to produce a set of “before” pictures once the vehicle is clean inside and out. These photos can be used later to document the presence of original features, options, and accessories. In addition, photograph every underhood detail such as the position of original hose clamps and vacuum hoses. Take well-lit, detailed shots of the wiring harness routing and electrical connections; these photos can help later when reassembling the car. Photograph both sides of the engine compartment as well as the cowl and firewall before removing anything.
Also photograph the complete engine from several angles. Look closely for any original stickers, paint daubs, and other inspection marks that may remain in the engine compartment. Document these details so you can duplicate them later. Also notice any factory original belts, hoses, or other maintenance parts that may remain. The original markings on these items can often be duplicated on modern replacement parts if accurate reproductions are not available.
This detail shot of the firewall shows the driver’s side. When photographing your project car before disassembly, be sure to include the small details such as the second metal washer hose retainer shown here. These details will set your restoration apart from the others. Also pay attention to the correct original routing of hoses and wiring for an authentic appearance.
Don’t overlook the direction of the upper control arm bolts, and the orientation of the power steering hoses at the steering gearbox. For maximum authenticity these details must be recreated when your project car is reassembled. That’s why a photo such as this is so helpful as a reference.
Documenting an Early 1968 Car
During auto manufacturing, running changes were quite common in the late 1960s. Early-build 1968 Javelin and AMX models, particularly those assembled late in the 1967 calendar year, include many subtle differences not found on later 1968 cars. When restoring an early 1968 model, document and strive to maintain these unique features whenever