Inside all models, the front bucket seats were new and much slimmer, now without the hard plastic backs used since 1970. The distinctively-styled Pierre Cardin interior option was continued for 1973, which means that there are early- and late-style Pierre Cardin seats.
Brand new for 1973 were separate, quad taillights for Javelin and Javelin AMX models. Often referred to as “TV” taillights because of their shape, they were carried over for 1974 models as well. Watch for rust perforation around these lights because of the rubber seals that can trap water against the tail panel.
Another change for 1973 Javelin and AMX models were handsome, new solid-rubber bumper guards for the front and rear. These replaced the longer chrome and rubber guards used earlier. Because of bumper regulations in certain states, some 1974 models used a much larger version, which was functional but less attractive.
1974
Model year 1974 was the last one for the Javelin and Javelin AMX. Changes to both models were minimal. The front seat release levers were relocated from the center of the seat back to the lower corner. The three-spoke sport steering wheel center now included an “AMC” logo instead of “American Motors” spelled out. Both models offered an optional 401-ci V-8 right to the end. With the impending discontinuation of the Javelin line, the 1974 model year was extended to the end of the calendar year, with production of the Javelin AMX continuing even after AMC’s supply of fiberglass hoods was depleted. For this reason, some very late-production 1974 Javelin AMXs were assembled with a standard steel hood.
If you have set your sights on a particular model, the next step is to begin the search for a suitable restoration candidate. Here is where things have changed dramatically over the past couple of decades. No longer is it necessary to wait for the Sunday classifieds or a monthly copy of Hemmings Motor News to find collector cars for sale (although the print edition of Hemmings is still a great place to look). Your search can now begin immediately with websites such as Craigslist, eBay Motors, the online Hemmings Classifieds, and others.
If you are looking for a particular year and model you can bookmark several of these sites, then narrow your search criteria to eliminate any unsuitable listings. Check them regularly; you will be surprised to see how many AMC muscle cars come up for sale each week.
Even Facebook is useful for locating collector and project cars as well as obsolete parts that are not advertised anywhere else. Although not as searchable as other sites, joining one or more appropriate Facebook groups can provide a variety of car listings and links on a daily basis.
Many cars listed on eBay remain unsold after the conclusion of the auction or “Buy It Now” listing. Some cars are listed with an unrealistic reserve just for exposure or to test the market. Even if a car has apparently been sold, a short message to the seller can’t hurt since deals can fall apart, and you could be the next interested party in line.
Craigslist is another excellent resource for locating project cars, and there are websites that allow you to check all of Craigslist, not just one local listing at a time. Don’t rule out the local newspaper classifieds either. Interesting projects have also been found at local auctions and estate sales.
Networking with local car guys can also produce results. Even though the “Javelin” in the neighbor’s shed may turn out to be a four-door Hornet, any lead is worth investigating. For many car enthusiasts, hunting for rare muscle cars is just as much fun as restoring and driving them!
Now that you have found a potential project car, you need to be armed with the knowledge to decode its vehicle identification number, or VIN. As required by federal law, American Motors installed a VIN plate readable through the driver-side lower corner of the windshield beginning with cars built on January 1, 1968. Earlier cars, and most of the 1968 models, have a stainless steel VIN plate located on the top of the passenger-side spring tower under the hood.
AMCs also have a hidden hand-stamped partial VIN on the driver-side front frame rail, hidden behind the steering box. This number includes only the engine code and final six sequential characters of the VIN, and can only be viewed with the steering box removed.
Every AMC muscle car has a hidden partial VIN hand stamped on the driver-side front frame rail. This identification number includes only the engine code and final six sequential characters of the VIN. Often lightly stamped, this number cannot be seen without first removing the steering gearbox, so some disassembly is required for inspection. If this number does not match the last seven characters of the car’s VIN tag and title exactly, there is a serious problem and the car should be avoided.
Federal law required a VIN plate readable through the windshield beginning with cars produced on January 1, 1968. These earliest number tags were riveted directly to the cowl before installation of the dash assembly. Most 1968 AMC models also have a polished stainless steel VIN plate spot welded to the top of the passenger-side spring tower. Visible only with the hood open, the spring tower tag was phased out during the 1968 model run.
For 1969 and newer cars the VIN plate was set into the top of the dash rather than being attached directly to the car’s body. Although it looks neater, there is a greater possibility of loss, or a VIN tag being swapped to a different car if the dash was replaced with a used one. Decades ago these were inexpensive used cars so there was often little concern for keeping things in order.
There is no simple way to inspect this number on a car that is fully assembled, but it can’t hurt to ask the seller for a look anyway. Your request may be denied, however, since partial disassembly of the steering system is required. Every VIN found on the car and title must match exactly. If any of these numbers do not agree, it is a serious problem that could involve prior accident damage or even theft. Such a car may be difficult or impossible to register, so be very cautious.
If the title and VIN check out, another source of original build data is the aluminum tag affixed to the trailing edge of the driver’s door. This plate provides the body and model numbers, as well as paint and trim codes for the car as it was originally produced. The last entry on the door tag is the build sequence number, which can be used to approximate the week a particular car was assembled. But be aware that over the years many damaged doors were replaced with a door from a salvage yard, and the original tag was rarely transferred to the replacement door. For this reason an AMX today may have a door tag with a Javelin model code. Know the correct codes for the car you are inspecting before you look at it because an incorrect door tag devalues the car from a collector’s standpoint.
Because in almost every case the door tag numbers do