The 1970 Mark Donohue–edition Javelin is known for its unique rear spoiler with signature decal, and is the only AMC special edition muscle car that cannot be documented by the VIN or door tag codes. Although all 2,501 cars were built within a certain date range, original paperwork is the only proof of authenticity for these desirable models, and many cloned or tribute cars already exist.
I have previously covered the possibility of non-matching numbers and door tag replacement. Here are a few more items to consider before you make a purchase.
Title
One potential obstacle to project car ownership is a vehicle offered for sale without a title. Many states did not require paper titles when these cars were new, but in most cases there are legitimate ways to secure a title. Be sure to check the laws in your state before considering such a purchase. A car with a title branded as “rebuilt” or “salvage” should be avoided as this status generally cannot be removed and will negatively impact future resale value, regardless of how nice the car appears.
Rust
Another potential deal breaker is structural body rust. All AMC cars are of unit-body construction so it’s never as easy as lifting the shell to roll a new frame underneath. The subframe and rocker panels are the body’s main support, so examine these components carefully, especially the inner part of the rockers underneath the car. If rust-through is found it will be the first repair that is needed so plan accordingly, or keep looking for a car with better bones.
Fender gussets, known in the AMC world as troughs, are U-shaped channels designed to strengthen the front end of the car and provide additional crash protection. Despite being sealed to the fender with rubber flaps, they frequently filled up with dirt and sand causing them, and the fender above, to rust out. Mice seem to find these sealed compartments inviting as well; nests are often found in gussets that haven’t rusted away.
If you can see rust holes on the inner or outer rocker panel, you can be sure that the center section is rusted away as well. The rocker panels along with the subframe rails are the main support for an AMC unit body, so rust perforation is more than cosmetic. Because of their three-piece, welded construction, replacement of the entire rocked panel is necessary if serious corrosion such as this has occurred.
Surprise! If you can see evidence of previous rust repairs be prepared to find something like this. Shoddy rust repairs are fairly common and generally require a lot of extra work to repair correctly. Bubbled or cracked body filler is a tipoff that rust has returned. Expect the worst where rust is concerned. It always looks worse once the paint and body filler are stripped away.
When inspecting a 1968–1970 AMX be sure to check the floorpans underneath both seats. This area is prone to rust damage because of an underlapping seam that was not sealed properly. As the car was driven, dirt and water collected underneath the carpet, allowing rust to take hold. Javelin models have no seam here and are less likely to have corrosion problems in this area.
Other areas of concern are the floorpans, trunk floor and drop-offs, taillight panel, driver-side A-pillar, and at the lower corners of the rear window. A deteriorated vinyl top can also cause serious rusting of the car’s roof panel. Luckily not every AMC tended to rust in the same areas so solid replacement sections can generally be found. But if the project in question is rusted in all of these places you should probably keep looking, unless the car is something really special or has a great deal of sentimental value.
Although this quarter panel is badly rusted, it has never had any repairs so you can see the extent of the rust damage. Although it may look worse, a project car like this is actually a better bet than one that has been quickly patched up and painted for resale. A car sold in primer may also hide many ills so expect to completely redo any bodywork that has already been completed. If a vehicle is described as “ready for paint,” it rarely is; use this information when negotiating your project car purchase.
Even in humid climates not every AMC car of the same year and model rusts in the same areas. That’s good news because donor cars are still available that can provide good sheet metal for use in restorations. As an example, despite having serious rust elsewhere, this AMX survives with a nearly perfect original trunk pan.
Although not as serious, rust damage can also be found at the leading edge of the hood, on the fender tops, lower corners of the doors, and the rear lip of the trunk lid. It’s simple enough to replace these bolt-on parts once you track down new old stock (NOS) or better quality used replacements. None of these parts have been reproduced in steel, and likely never will be. However, lower quarter panel sections, trunk drop-offs, the rear valance panel, and partial floorpans have been reproduced for Javelin and AMX models. Be sure to purchase the best-quality reproduction panels that are available from fulltime AMC parts vendors because lesser-quality reproductions also exist, and the difference in quality is significant.
Accident Damage
During your inspection process it is also important to check for previous accident damage. Serious panel misalignment or body filler in places that rust is unlikely to occur are tip-offs. American Motors rarely used shims in building cars so finding shims can be another indicator of repaired collision damage. Check the front frame rails, and behind the front bumper and grille for damage to the core support and radiator extension panels. Something as simple as a missing grille bracket could indicate that the front substructure is out of shape. Pull up the trunk mat to check the floor, and inspect the back of the taillight panel for evidence of a rear-end collision. It seems that few muscle cars have survived without some type of accident damage, even if it’s only minor.
Disassembled Cars
Another situation with the potential for disaster is buying a project car that has already been disassembled. These cars generally cost less, but there’s a reason. Although it can be helpful for inspecting the body for rust damage, a disassembled car may actually hide faults such as poor panel alignment that may not be revealed until the doors and fenders are installed much later. Crucial parts may also be missing, and, unless all of the hardware is carefully bagged and labeled, you will spend hours locating and sorting fasteners. It is always best to start with the nicest, most complete project car that you can find, preferably one that is still assembled and can be driven.
Modifications
Modified muscle cars are plentiful and frequently found for sale. These cars may look great and be reasonably priced, but don’t be dazzled by shiny wheels and other custom parts if your goal is a stock-appearing restoration. Many original equipment parts including air cleaners, carburetors, emissions control systems, radios, and steering wheels are becoming harder to find and may be very expensive.
Another potential liability is incorrectly painted stripes. No matter how nice the paint job is, the removal of painted stripes will likely necessitate at least a partial repaint of the car.