AMC Javelin, AMX, and Muscle Car Restoration 1968-1974. Scott Campbell. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: Scott Campbell
Издательство: Ingram
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Жанр произведения: Сделай Сам
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781613252659
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Also be aware when sourcing replacement parts for a later-production 1968 or 1969 model that some early-style parts may be considered incorrect by a knowledgeable car show judge and cost valuable points in a stock class concours event.

       These photos are a sampling of features unique to an early-build 1968 Javelin or AMX.

       Fresh out of long-term storage, this early-production 1968 Javelin SST contains many features unique to AMX and Javelin models built late in the 1967 calendar year. The mint green color is not original to this car.

Early-production 1968s have round mounting bosses ...

       Early-production 1968s have round mounting bosses where the diagonal supports attach to the upper core support. These were replaced by a boxed mount with captive nut found on all later cars.

The position of the battery warning ...

       The position of the battery warning label was parallel to the core support on many 1968 cars. Later, it was installed at the end of the radiator filler panel, perpendicular to the core support.

Storm strips gave a finished appearance ...

       Storm strips gave a finished appearance to the pinch welds at either side of the door openings. On early cars there is no plastic cap finishing the upper end of the storm strips.

Early in the 1968 model year, ...

       Early in the 1968 model year, front-seat shoulder belts were still optional, with only lap belts as standard equipment. Cars ordered without shoulder belts used this plug to cover the mounting holes.

The earliest 1968 models used window ...

       The earliest 1968 models used window cranks left over from 1967 model year cars. Correct for early-production 1968s, this type was soon replaced by the newer-style window crank.

A round, body “buck” tag is ...

       A round, body “buck” tag is attached to the passenger side of the lower core support. This tag likely contained information identifying the car before the VIN tag was attached.

Early-style front fender braces attached at ...

       Early-style front fender braces attached at the corner of the wheel opening, but did not allow enough tire clearance. The later style used two bolts at the bottom and attached farther forward.

Every early-production 1968 AMX or Javelin, ...

       Every early-production 1968 AMX or Javelin, including cars with V-8 engines, have this bracket on the driver-side inner fender for mounting a 6-cylinder battery tray.

The early-style V-8 heater valve was ...

       The early-style V-8 heater valve was mounted on the firewall instead of the intake manifold. After the switch to the newer type, the mounting holes on the firewall were plugged with putty.

Black plastic knobs for the light ...

       Black plastic knobs for the light and wiper switches were only found on early 1968 models. These were upgraded to chrome-finish knobs soon after for more eye appeal.

The earliest 1968 cars had no ...

       The earliest 1968 cars had no VIN plate mounted to the top of the dash or cowl. The only VIN plate found on these cars was mounted to the top of the passenger-side spring tower underneath the hood.

       Early-production 1968 cars have a heater hose retainer bolted to the Z-shaped brace for the alternator bracket. This worm gear hose clamp is not original equipment.

Early 1968 models have black-faced gauges. ...

       Early 1968 models have black-faced gauges. As with the light and wiper switches, the gauge faces were changed to silver for more contrast. Black gauges reappeared for the 1970 AMX and Javelin.

Even the door data tags changed ...

       Even the door data tags changed during the 1968 model year. Early-production tags have a black band, and later tags have revised text with a green band.

In the style of the AMX ...

       In the style of the AMX dash number plate, early-production 1968 Javelins had this nameplate attached to the glove box door. And as on the AMX, this plate was soon moved to the center of the dash.

      Once you have completely cleaned and photographed every important detail of your project car both inside and out, the next step is to begin the disassembly process. This procedure varies depending on the type of restoration you have planned, but for a thorough freshening much of the car needs to come apart.

      Before removing a single screw, make sure you have a fine-point permanent marker and a box of resealable plastic bags on hand. Use these to identify and store all of the specialized hardware and other small parts immediately as they are removed from the car. Clear plastic snack bags work well for this purpose. If the car will be completely disassembled, expect to label and fill hundreds of bags! Additional information can also be written on the bag, or on a note included inside. Later, these bags can be sorted into different areas of the car: interior, engine compartment, suspension, and so on, and then boxed together for future use.

      Save and label every fastener even if it is damaged or incorrect because it can be used later as a sample when sourcing the correct item. If a fastener from a particular part is damaged, incorrect, or missing, write “locate one” or whatever will be needed right on the bag as a reminder to track down a replacement.

Before any disassembly begins, make sure ...

       Before any disassembly begins, make sure you have a good supply of resealable plastic bags and a permanent marker handy. If you are working on more than one car at a time, include a short description of the car on every parts bag. This will prevent mixing up anything as you jump from project to project.

If there is a chance you ...

       If there is a chance you will not remember exactly how to reinstall something, such as this firewall steering column seal, be sure to photograph it before removal from the