Complete Book of Sewing Techniques. Wendy Gardiner

use French seams, or double-stitched or rolled hems, which look good on both sides of the fabric. Alternatively, bind seams and hems with a fine bias tape or lace edging.

      • Use a small hole throat plate when sewing very fine fabrics to prevent the fabric being pulled into the throat plate.

      Stretch fabrics

      • For close-fitting knit garments, cut the pattern pieces slightly smaller than the actual size.

      • Use zigzag or stretch stitches to sew knit fabrics.

      • To prevent knit fabric edges curling, stitch a double row of stitching and trim close to the outer row.

      • Stay stitch or stay tape any areas that are not supposed to stretch, such as the neck, armhole, and shoulder seams.

      FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

      To determine the amount of fabric required when the fabric width of your chosen fabric differs from the pattern guidelines, use the chart below. Note that one-way designs, checks, and stripes may need more fabric than the recommended amount.

      For example, if a pattern calls for 1 3/4 yd (1.60 m) of 45 in (115 cm)-wide fabric, and your chosen fabric is 36 in (90 cm) wide, go to the 45 in (115 cm) column, look down until you get to 1 3/4 yd (1.60 m) and then move along the row until you get to the 36 in (90 cm) column. The amount of fabric required at the different width will be noted in this column, i.e. 2 1/4 yd (2.10 m).