Diagram 1: Upper thread
Bobbins
Although you can buy universal bobbins, it is preferable to use those that are supplied with the machine because some models get temperamental if using other types of bobbin. Bobbins can be wound with the same thread as the upper thread or with a special bobbin fill if doing machine embroidery or lots of appliqué (bobbin fill is finer, making it ideal for heavily concentrated stitch areas). Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder pin (at the front or the side of the machine) and push the pin into the wind position. On modern machines this disengages the needle and allows you to wind bobbins without unthreading the upper thread (check your user’s manual). Use the bobbin winder for general sewing thread to ensure an evenly wound bobbin. If it is too loosely wound or uneven, it may cause the bobbin to jam when sewing, which can cause broken or uneven stitching. (If you are using speciality threads for a decorative finish, hand-wind them onto the bobbin and then stitch slowly.) Clean the bobbin area frequently using the brush provided in the tool kit to prevent fluff build up (which can jam the machine).
Winding a bobbin
STARTING TO STITCH
It is preferable to bring up the bobbin thread before you start to stitch to prevent the threads tangling at the start of a seam. To raise the bobbin thread, turn the fly wheel by hand to lower and raise the needle. As the upper thread comes back up, pull it from behind the needle to bring up the bobbin thread loop and then pull both together to create a 2–3 in (5–8 cm) thread tail.
Stitch length
An average stitch length for medium-weight fabric is 2.5–3 mm or 10–12 spi (stitches per inch). Stitch length is altered by a dial on electronic machines, or by tapping the increase/decrease points on the LCD screen of a computerized model. There will be a minimum and maximum stitch length – minimum is used to stitch on the spot and maximum for basting or gathering stitches. Shorter stitch lengths are used for finer fabrics, and longer stitch lengths are used for sewing bulkier fabrics.
Stitch width
The stitch width is only applicable on stitches that have a sideways element, such as a zigzag stitch or decorative stitches. Adjust with the dial or LCD screen as for length, reducing or increasing to suit the fabric weight and stitch choice.
HELPFUL HINT:
Test stitch the length and width on a sample made up of the same number of layers and interfacings, etc. Adjust the length/width as necessary to achieve an even, straight row of stitching.
To ensure the fabric is not pulled down into the throat plate and to prevent threads tangling at the start of stitching, hold the thread tails at the back when making the first few stitches.
Stitch tension is correct when the upper thread shows on the top of the fabric and the bobbin thread shows on the underside. The two threads are interlocked between the fabric layers.
GUIDE TO OTHER MACHINE PARTS
Flywheel – Also known as the hand wheel. Turn it to lower and raise the needle, step by step.
Needle – Sewing machine needles have a flat surface on one side of the shaft. For most machines, this is placed in the needle column facing to the back. To secure the needle in position, tighten the screw with the screwdriver provided in the tool kit.
Presser foot – This is used to help keep the fabric in position as it is fed through when being stitched. Snap-on feet are easy to remove and replace. The presser foot is lifted or lowered using a lever on the side or back of the foot column or by a computerized button.
Feed dogs – Positioned under the presser foot, these raised, jagged edges move back and forth when the machine is in use in order to feed the fabric as it is being stitched. Lowering the feed dogs disengages them and thus enables you to move the fabric in any direction as it is being stitched.
Throat plate (or needle plate) – This metal plate has a central hole which fits over the feed dogs and provides a space for the needle to go down and pick up the bobbin thread. The different markings are used as a guide for seam width. Alternative throat plates with smaller apertures are available for some models.
Flat bed and free arm – These are the terms for the sewing surface. The flat bed usually incorporates the tool kit/machine accessory case which can be removed to make the sewing surface. The free arm is a thinner base used when sewing small items, such as cuffs or trouser hems.
Presser feet
Every sewing machine is provided with a basic range of feet which help sew specific techniques, such as a general purpose foot, zipper foot, and buttonhole foot. Other feet are usually available as optional extras. Each has different widths, grooves underneath to move smoothly over concentrated stitch areas, or hooks and angles through which trims, piping, etc., can be fed.
All-purpose foot – The most frequently used foot, ideal for straight stitching.
Zipper foot – These can vary in appearance, but all are designed to allow stitching close to the zipper teeth.
Buttonhole foot – These vary from model to model. Some have a slot to insert a button at the back. The underside has deep grooves to allow it to glide over dense stitching.
Embroidery/appliqué/satin stitch foot – Usually clear plastic, a wide groove on the underside helps the foot glide over concentrated stitching.
Blind hem foot – Used to machine stitch blind hems, the foot has a metal guide against which the folded fabric is fed.
Overcasting foot – Designed to stitch at the edge of the fabric, it has a wire brush on the underside to prevent the fabric edge from rolling or puckering.
Walking foot – Although large and cumbersome to look at, this foot helps feed fabric layers through evenly and is ideal for fabrics with a pile such as fur, or for accurately matching plaids and quilting several layers.
All-purpose and zipper feet
Walking foot
Embroidery foot, blind hem foot and overcasting foot
Buttonhole feet
Sergers
Sergers (also known as overlockers) are ideal for fast sewing because they stitch, trim fabric from the seam allowance, and finish all at the same time. They use between 2–8 threads to complete the process, depending on the stitch technique and type of serger. The most common machines have three or four threads while the top of the range have eight thread positions and the option to cover stitch as well as serge. Serged seams are flexible, making them ideal for stretchy fabrics, sportswear, and lingerie.
HOW SERGERS WORK
Sergers do not have bobbins, but have one or two needles and two loopers instead. The needles stitch straight rows of stitching, while the upper and lower loopers form the overcast stitch along the cut edge, interlocking at the very edge. All four are