Poplin – Slightly heavier and crisper than cotton lawn, poplin is woven with a fine horizontal rib. Used for summerwear and childrenswear.
Seersucker – Lightweight, usually cotton, seersucker has alternating stripes that are puckered and crinkled. Used for lightweight jackets and tops.
Silks – There are many silk varieties, including crêpe de chine, raw silk, shantung, thai silk, silk noil, china silk, polyester, viscose, and rayon silks. Raw silks, shantung, and noils have some surface texture and shading. Treat as a pile fabric and use “with nap” layouts. Silks can range from light to medium weight. Used for dressmaking and luxury soft furnishings. China silk is used for linings.
Taffeta/moiré taffeta – Originally made from silk, taffetas can also be polyester. They have a crisp finish and shiny surface. Moiré taffeta has a “watermark” pattern. Used for eveningwear, wraps, and bridalwear.
Tulle – Made from silk, nylon, or other man-made fibers, tulle is a fine net. Used for bridal veils and fancy-dress costumes.
Voile – A sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, some have iridescent fibers for added shimmer. Used for lightweight drapes and summer wraps.
Linen and linen-mix fabrics
Eyelet embroidery (broderie anglaise)
MEDIUM-WEIGHT FABRICS
These include fabrics suitable for dressmaking, craft, and soft furnishings such as wools, wool mixes, heavier silks, satins, and cottons with textured weave. Most are easy-to-sew, stable woven fabrics.
Use all-purpose thread and finish seams with overcast stitch, zigzag stitch, or bound seams. Alternatively, sew with special seams such as flat fell or French (see Seams). Always use a press cloth and steam. Allow to cool before handling. Use size 12 (80) needles.
Selection of medium-weight fabrics
Common fabric types
Angora, alpaca – Luxury soft wool fabrics: angora comes from goat hair and alpaca from llama. Angora is often mixed with other fibers to create a woolen cloth. Used for knitwear and woolen coating.
Challis – Woven with a crêpe yarn to give an all-over crinkled surface. Wool challis is a luxury fabric, it breathes well, and wrinkles very little. Often printed with paisley or floral designs. Used for dresses, jackets, and A-line or full skirts.
Chintz – A cotton fabric that is closely woven and has a glazed finished. Used for crafts, table linen, and soft furnishings.
Corduroy – Has a sheared rib surface and can be pure cotton or a mix of fibers. Rib size can vary from narrow baby cord to thick elephant cord. Use “with nap” layouts. Used for trousers, jackets, vests, etc.
Crêpe back satin – Also known as satin back crêpe, this is a double-sided fabric with twisted crêpe weave on one side and a smooth, shiny satin on the other. Used for evening wear, bridal wear, smart trousers, jackets, and dresses.
Crêpe back satin
Damask – Traditionally made from linen or cotton on a jacquard loom to produce a self pattern. Used for table linen and home furnishings.
Denim – A twill weave fabric that is now available in many different colors and weights. The very distinctive twill weave is created by a colored warp and white weft. Used for trousers, jackets, and skirts, depending on the weight.
Denim fabrics
Drill – A strong twill weave and heavier-weight cotton. Canvas is a similar fabric. Used for outdoor and hardwearing items.
Dupion – Has a thick uneven texture created by two fibers of silk woven together. Can also be made from synthetic fibers. Used for lightweight jackets, dresses, and tops.
Flannel – Can be plain or twill weave, both having a soft brushed surface on one or both sides. Used for jackets, suits, skirts, and trousers.
Gabardine – A close twill weave gives the distinctive surface pattern. Made from a variety of fibers and wool blends, it is water-repellent and hardwearing. Used for suits, trousers, skirts, jackets, and coats.
Satin/duchesse satin – A high sheen, smooth fabric. Use “with nap” layout to prevent unwanted shading. Duchesse satin has a very high luster. Used for bridal and evening wear.
Wool crêpe – Has a twisted weave which creates surface texture. Different weights and varieties are available, better qualities are more wrinkle-resistant. Crêpe can shrink when laundered, so pre-shrink before cutting out. Used for suits, tailored skirts and trousers, jackets, and dresses.
HEAVYWEIGHT FABRICS
Many fabric types have heavyweight varieties, such as woolens, tweeds, bouclés, and fleece. Many also have a one-way sheen or pile, such as cashmere, so always use the “with nap” layout. Use a press cloth and minimal steam, and press from the wrong side whenever possible. For very fluffy, hairy fabrics, use a towel as a pressing surface to prevent the pile flattening when pressed. Trim the pile from the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Use lining fabrics for facings to avoid unnecessary bulk at collars, cuffs, etc. Use size 10–12 (70–80) universal needles and medium- to heavyweight interfacings. Use sew-in interfacings on pile fabrics.
Selection of heavyweight fabrics
Common fabric types
Boiled wool – A felted knitted fabric. Create your own by machine washing and drying a loosely woven knit wool. Fabric will shrink by 40–50% in both directions. Used for jackets, fitted tops, and coats.
Bouclé – Can be knitted or woven, usually with a dull textural, thick, nobbly surface. Used for jackets, vests, and coats.
Bouclé fabric
Brocade – Incorporates a jacquard design of flowers, leaves, or geometric patterns to create a raised surface contrast or color. Used for bridal- or eveningwear and table linen.
Camel hair – Woven from the under hair of a camel, it is often mixed with sheep’s wool, for greater durability. It is a luxury fabric with a distinctive soft yellow color. Used for coats and jackets.
Cashmere – Made from the hair of Kashmir goats, this very fine, soft fabric is comfortable to wear. Cashmere can be knitted or woven. Used for coats, scarves, and sweaters.
Chenille – Soft to touch, with a raised surface texture. Good drapability but inclined to stretch. Fully interface with a fusible interfacing. Used for vests, jackets, loose tunic tops, and bathrobes.
Fleece – Very versatile and easy to sew, available in many colors and designs. Usually polyester, easy care and wear. Use a slightly larger-than-usual seam allowance to help feed the fabric evenly. No finishing needed. Used for jackets, vests, and coats.
Herringbone – Has a twill weave with a distinctive pattern like the backbone of a herring. Used for jackets, coats, and suits.
Mohair – Noted for its hairy texture,