Sergers also have cutting blades positioned to the right of the needle, so that when the machine is operated, the fabric edge is cut before it continues to feed under the foot to be stitched and overlocked. The blades can be lowered to disengage them if desired.
Modern sergers also have differential feed, which means that they evenly feed fabric layers at the same time, avoiding overstretched or puckered seams.
Sergers can be used simply to finish seams quickly and efficiently, or to create decorative finishes when using the special feet available, such as creating a rolled hem, gathering, attaching bindings, and piping. Although feet and needles carry out the same function as on sewing machines, they are rarely interchangeable.
Serger thread is usually finer and comes on large cones or cops (sometimes called bobbins, but not to be confused with sewing machine bobbins) because serging uses far more thread than a sewing machine. If using speciality threads, use them in the loopers which have larger-eyed needles.
Serger cones
Fabric that has been overlocked
A blade cuts the fabric before stitching
STARTING TO STITCH
Always test the stitching on a sample before working on the main project. Start stitching before the fabric is fed through in order to create a chain of stitches 3–5 in (8–10 cm) long. Then, holding the chain at the back of the machine, feed the fabric under the foot (which can be left down or raised to start). Always have the blade at its highest point when starting (turn the hand wheel by hand to raise it). At the seam end, continue stitching for a further 3–5 in (8–10 cm) to create another chain of stitches. Use a bodkin (large-eyed needle) to thread this chain back through the overlocked edge.
HELPFUL HINT:
Before changing or removing needles, place fabric under the presser foot so that the needle cannot accidentally drop down through the throat plate.
Leave a thread tail at the end
THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE SERGER
Needles – A three-thread serger has one needle whereas a four-thread machine has two needles, and a five-thread may have three needles. A three-thread machine stitches a straight line and overlocks the edge in one pass which is generally only used for seam finishing. The four-thread serger with two needles stitches a seam plus a parallel straight line and overlocked edge making it a stronger combination, useful for complete garment or project construction. Needles can be removed if the stitch technique doesn’t require all needles in operation, as in flat locking which requires one needle only.
Loopers – The function of the loopers is to form the overlocked stitching at the fabric edge. The looper threads go through their own thread guides, which take them under the needle plate. Threading the loopers can be tricky. The lower looper thread forms the stitching on the underside of the work and the upper looper thread forms the stitching on the top.
Thread guide – Each is usually color coded so that the correct needle or looper thread trail is easier to follow. Cones are placed on pins at the back of the machine and should then be covered with nets (provided in the tool kit) to prevent threads unravelling from the cones unevenly. The thread guide at the back can be raised when in use and lowered for storage.
Thread tensions – Some models have automatic thread tensions on all threads, others have dials to alter the tensions individually. Those with dials usually have shaded or marked optimum tension settings. Tensions may need to be altered when using different stitch techniques or stitching very fine or very bulky fabric. If the looper stitches do not interlock on the fabric edge, the upper looper tension may be too tight, or lower looper too loose. Tighten and loosen the tensions a little at a time.
Stitch selector – As with sewing machines, sergers have stitch options in order to create different finishes. Your user’s manual will advise on any tension alterations and the recommended foot and needles.
Fabrics
There is a huge range of fabrics available for dressmaking, crafts, and soft furnishings. Which to use and when depends on the type of project, whether you want something bold and dramatic or classic and understated. Most important is to use the right type and weight of fabric. Following is a list of the common fabric types and their uses.
Selection of lightweight fabrics
LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS
Many different fabrics are available in lightweight varieties, including cottons, voiles, linens, silks, woolens, and poly cotton blends. Most are stable, woven fabrics that are easy to sew. Cotton, linen, silk, and wool are made from natural fibers, which are often mixed with man-made fibers to create fabrics that are stronger and more wrinkle-resistant.
Use all-purpose thread and finish seams with overcast stitch, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears. Pure cottons and linens can be pressed with a hot iron. For silks, wools, and mixed-fiber fabrics, always use a press cloth and medium to hot iron. Use a 10–12 (70–80) universal needle.
Common fabric types
Batiste – Lightweight, soft, and sheer, batiste can be made in cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers. Used for underlinings, quilt backing, and heirloom sewing.
Chambray – Similar in appearance to denim, chambray is normally cotton, although sometimes mixed with other fibers. Used for shirts and childrenswear.
Cheesecloth – A cotton fabric, loosely woven with a slightly crinkled surface. Used for crafts, casual gypsy-style tops, and other fashion items.
Chiffon – A light, drapable sheer fabric that can be pure silk or synthetic. Used for blouses, over-skirts, and wraps.
Cottons, polyester/cotton – Very versatile, easy to sew, and available in a huge color range, both in plains and prints. Used for summer clothing, craft projects, and quilting.
Cotton lawn – Lightweight and crisp to handle. Used for christening gowns, heirloom stitching, and linings.
Eyelet embroidery (broderie anglaise) – Traditionally a cotton fabric, it has a light self-colored pattern which incorporates stitched eyelets. Used for childrenswear, summer tops, full skirts, and nightwear.
Gingham – A check fabric, usually cotton. Used for dresses, blouses, craft projects, and café-style curtains.
Georgette – A sheer fabric, similar to chiffon but made with crêpe yarns for a more dense finish. Used for blouses and wraps.
Linen – Easily wrinkled, linens can be very lightweight (handkerchief linen) or medium-weight when mixed with other fibers (linen blends) which makes them more wrinkle-resistant and stable. Handkerchief linen is used for tops and table linen. Linen and linen blends are used for smart suits, dresses, trousers, and jackets.
Muslin – A plain woven, inexpensive cream-colored cotton fabric. Different weights are available. Used for quilting or making toiles (test garments).
Muslin gauze – A lightweight, plain weave fabric. Used for crafts, lightweight curtains, and interfacings.
Organza/organdie – Slightly crisper than chiffon, organza is also sheer and often made of polyester or silk. Used for wraps