Get an up-to-date weather forecast (see ‘Weather’ above) and carefully reconsider your plans in light of the forecast. Never set out on long or exposed routes if the weather is uncertain.
Get as fit as possible before you begin your vacation; the fitter you are the more you will enjoy walking.
Start early to avoid having to ascend during the hottest part of the day and to give you more time in case something goes wrong.
Buy a map. The maps in this book are indicative only and are no substitute for a sheet map.
Before setting out, tell someone where you are going and what time you will return.
Carry surplus food and clothing in case you have an accident or get held up by the weather.
Never be afraid to turn back if you find the going too tough or if the weather deteriorates. It is better to fail on one occasion in order to succeed a hundred times in the future.
Do not stray from the path (unless the route does not have one) to avoid getting lost. This will also avoid erosion of the landscape.
Avoid exposed high ground in a thunderstorm. If you get caught out in one then drop your walking poles and stay away from trees, overhanging rocks, metal structures and caves. The generally accepted advice is to squat on your pack and keep as low as possible.
In the event of an accident, move the injured person into a safe place and administer any necessary first aid. Keep the victim warm. Establish your exact coordinates and, if possible, use your mobile to call for help. The emergency number is 112. If you have no signal then send someone for help.
Mountain biking is becoming more and more popular so keep your wits about you to avoid a collision.
Hunting is popular in the Briançonnais. The season starts at the beginning of September and lasts throughout the autumn and early winter. It is sensible to wear something brightly coloured when walking in the hunting season.
The pretty chapel in Névache
Food and drink
French food is generally excellent. Most hotels, gîtes and refuges will offer breakfast and evening meals. Breakfast will normally be coffee, bread and jam, perhaps with some cheeses or cold meats. Evening meals are usually substantial three course affairs as walkers tend to be hungry people. Soup and pâté are common starters and the main course will normally be some sort of meat with vegetables, rice, pasta or salad. This will often be followed by dessert or cheese.
Many of the restaurants will serve local specialities such as Tourtons, otherwise improbably known as Coussins du petit Jésus (Cushions of baby Jesus). These are tasty little pastry squares stuffed with fillings such as potato, cheese or meat. Fondues and tartiflette (a rich and tasty concoction of potatoes, cream, ham and Reblochon cheese) are also popular mountain fares.
Bread is nothing short of a way of life in France and is consistently excellent – most towns and villages will have a boulangerie (bakery). Supermarkets in France stock a wide range of fantastic cheeses and cold meats so picnic food is readily available.
Many towns and villages have popular weekly markets at which there will be stalls selling bread, cheeses, meats and other locally made products. These markets are well supported by locals and visitors alike and tourist information offices can provide information on them. Perhaps one of the most enjoyable is the Thursday morning market in Vallouise, where the stalls are set up in the old village centre.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Language: French is the first language but many locals will have at least some basic English.
Money: France uses the euro (€). ATMs can be found in most towns but rarely in smaller villages. Credit cards are accepted widely although most refuges accept cash only.
Visas: citizens of the European Union do not need a visa. At the time of writing citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US do not need a visa for stays of up to three months. Brexit may change things for the UK traveller.
Mobile phones: mobiles should work in towns and villages. In the mountains, however, it can be hit and miss. 3G services are widely available so access to the internet from smart phones is often possible.
International dialling codes: the country code for France is +33 and the first 0 in the French area code is omitted if calling from outside of France.
Internet: many hotels and gîtes now have wifi but refuges do not.
Insurance: mountain rescue services may not be free and therefore it is wise to ensure that you have adequate insurance which covers hiking. Visitors from the UK should also make sure that they have the free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) but remember that in France this will only cover part of your medical treatment so insurance is still recommended. Also, the EHIC will not cover mountain rescues. With Brexit looming it is possible that the EHIC card may soon be a thing of the past for UK residents and in such circumstances private insurance will become even more important.
Emergencies: the emergency telephone number is 112.
Via ferrata
A few of the routes in the book can be varied to link them with via ferrata routes. Via ferrata is an Italian phrase which literally means ‘iron road’. It is commonly associated with the First World War, when steel ladders were bolted into rock faces in the Italian Dolomites to assist with the movement of Italian troops. In recent years, modern via ferratas have been constructed in the French Alps. Crête de la Rortie (Walk 23) could be combined with an excellent via ferrata and L’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Walk 38) also has a via ferrata.
A via ferrata enables people with no rock climbing experience to ascend a rock face with the assistance of ladders, steps and cables (onto which the user should be clipped at all times). You should always be properly equipped with a twin lanyard and carabiner set, helmet, gloves and harness. Get instruction from an experienced professional unless you know what you are doing. Tackling a via ferrata is an exhilarating experience which can be the highlight of many people’s trip to the mountains, but it should not be treated lightly and should not be attempted by anyone who does not have a good head for heights. A fall during a via ferrata climb could lead to serious injury or even death.
Full information on how to do a via ferrata is beyond the scope of this book. They are mentioned here in passing to make the reader aware of possible alternatives on particular walks but the book does not provide detailed route descriptions for the specific via ferrata routes or information on how to do a via ferrata safely. A good reference point is Richard Miller’s excellent book Via Ferratas of the French Alps (Cicerone Press, 2014).
What to take
Having the wrong equipment or clothing can make a day out in the mountains uncomfortable, unpleasant or even dangerous. You should be adequately equipped for the terrain and for the worst weather conditions which you could possibly face. Being cold and wet at high altitude is no fun and can put you at risk.
Weight is also worth taking into account – if you take too little then you might not be properly prepared, but if you take too much then that 1000m ascent will be more difficult.
Boots should be good quality, properly fitting and worn in. Good ankle support and thick cleated soles (such as Vibram) are recommended.
Good quality walking socks are as important as boots and they should fit properly and be quick drying.
A good quality waterproof jacket is vital even if the forecast looks dry. Breathable fabrics are the norm. It is also wise to carry waterproof trousers although you may rarely need them.
Layering is important. On your upper body wear a base layer (which will wick