Chardon Bleu is a rare blue flower which flowers between July and September. They are common at the top of the Fournel Valley near the start of Walk 24 (la Grande Cabane).
Edelweiss is probably the most famous alpine plant of all. This striking white flower is rare and only grows at high altitude (1800–3300m). It can be found (if you are lucky) on Walks 27 (Croix de la Salcette) and 40 (Plateau d’Emparis).
Getting there
By air
The Briançonnais is well served by the following international airports and airlines:
Turin (1hr 30min drive to Briançon) – Alitalia, British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair
Lyon (2hr 45min to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, British Airways, Easyjet
Marseilles (2hr 50min to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways. Easyjet, Ryanair
Milan Malpensa (3hr to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, Alitalia, British Airways, Easyjet
Nice (3hr 30min to 5hr to Briançon depending upon the route) – Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair.
This is not a complete list of airlines serving these airports but it will provide an idea of what is available.
Resalp runs bus services to Briançon from Lyon airport via Grenoble (see Appendix C). You can also get the train to Briançon from Marseille airport and Nice but you will need to change at least once (see www.voyages-sncf.com). However, as you will need a car to access many of the walks, you might prefer to rent a car at the airport you fly into. All the major rental companies operate at the airports and cheap rates can be obtained via a booking website such as or www.holidayautos.co.uk. If you are flying into Italy (Turin or Milan) and propose to rent a car, check that your hire car company allows you to cross into France.
By train
Briançon is easily accessed from Paris by train. At the time of writing there is a daily overnight train in both directions between Briançon and Gare Austerlitz in Paris, but funding cuts may put this service under threat. It is an excellent service which offers reasonably priced sleeper carriages and gets into Briançon early in the morning. There are also a number of trains which run during the day to and from Gare de Lyon in Paris. Any of these train services could be linked with the Eurostar from London or a flight to Paris. Information on train times and tickets can be found at www.voyages-sncf.com.
By car
You can bring your car to France from Ireland or the UK by one of the many ferry services (www.stenaline.co.uk; www.irishferries.com; www.brittany-ferries.co.uk; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk). Alternatively, you can travel with your car on the train from the UK through the channel tunnel (www.eurotunnel.com). The drive to the Briançonnais should take 9–10hr from arrival in France. If travelling from Calais or Dunkirk, take the road to Reims to avoid the busy ring road around Paris.
Getting around
Depending upon where you base yourself, you should be able to access some of the walks in this book by foot. In addition, many of the walks can be reached using local bus services. For example, regular buses travel to Montgenèvre and up and down the Guisane Valley between Briançon and la Grave. There are also daily Lignes Express Régionales buses travelling along the Durance Valley to and from Briançon (see Appendix C).
However, there are some walks in this book which will require you to have your own transport and, if you do, then you will get more out of the region. You could rent a car in Briançon but it is usually cheaper and easier to rent one on arrival at the airport (see ‘Getting there’).
Weather
Alpine climates tend to be drier and more predictable than those in mountain areas with a maritime climate (such as the UK or the US west coast). Nevertheless, as with any high mountain region, conditions can still change rapidly. It is prudent therefore to be prepared for rain and it is not beyond the realms of possibility to experience snow on high mountain passes (‘cols’) and summits even in the middle of summer. All mountains can be dangerous places and need to be treated with respect and caution, even if the weather forecast is favourable.
The Vallouise Valley in winter
The weather in the Briançonnais can be extremely localised, often differing from valley to valley. It is possible therefore to climb to the top of a col in blazing sunshine only to find cloud or even rain over the other side. The Durance Valley has a slightly different climate, for example, than the Guisane.
Forecasts in France are relatively easy to access. National and regional forecasts can be found on television or radio. Local forecasts can be found at tourist information offices and most mountain huts will display up-to-date weather forecasts. Indeed, often the most reliable forecast can be that provided by a hut gardien (manager), as it will be infused with a wealth of local knowledge.
In addition, there are numerous internet sites, both French and international, which produce forecasts of varying reliability. One of the best sites is Meteo France, the French meteorological office, which provides regularly updated national, regional and local forecasts at www.meteofrance.com. Meteo France also has an excellent smart phone app which provides detailed local forecasts.
When to go
In general the Briançonnais can be walked from May to October but, as with any part of the Alps, walking at altitude is restricted for part of the year by snow. Normally high cols will be snow covered until mid to late June, with the main walking season running from the end of June to the end of September. This does not mean that you cannot walk at other times and, indeed, it can be preferable to do so.
Spring (May and June): there is still plenty of excellent walking below the snowline to please the most hardened walker. Take care when approaching the snowline in spring, as avalanches are not uncommon and can kill. Away from the snowline you should have few concerns, and this can be the most beautiful time of year for walking: new growth will be on the trees, the weather is often sunny and warm and the peaks are frequently at their most photogenic, still frosted with snow. Visibility is generally excellent in the absence of summer haze. Of course there is still rain at this time of year, but this usually lessens as spring develops.
Furthermore, in May and early June the Briançonnais’ hundreds of varieties of wild flowers are at their glorious best, the pastures resplendent with colour. This is a sight which most walkers, focused on the summer season, never get to see, and it cannot be recommended highly enough. Additionally, the Briançonnais is extremely quiet during this period, so if you are seeking solitude then this is a great time to visit.
Wild flowers in spring in the Fournel Valley
Summer (July and August): normally most of the high cols are passable on foot. This is the peak season, reaching its crescendo in the four weeks commencing around 14th July, when most of the French take their annual vacations. During these four weeks visitor numbers are at the summer maximum,