Temperatures will be at their peak, reaching more than 30°C. Mornings are often clear and sunny, heating up as the sun rises into deep blue skies. If there is to be cloud, this will likely form throughout the afternoon, and may bring thunderstorms. Sensible advice is to start early in the morning and get your main climb done while the temperature is cooler. Summer can be hazier than spring or autumn.
Autumn (September and October): visitor numbers thin out rapidly from the last week in August. French and Italian holiday-makers are back at work and the mountains are almost deserted (particularly mid-week). From the middle of September the mountain huts and gîtes start to close up for the season.
Often September offers the best walking, with settled weather and more comfortable temperatures than in summer. The skies are clear and visibility is normally excellent, particularly if your visit coincides with the Mistral, a strong, cold northwest wind. Evenings will be cooler.
Walkers generally ignore October, which is a shame as the weather can be beautiful, and the proliferation of larch trees and other deciduous plants means that the autumn colours are an astounding mix of yellows, reds and browns. Days will be shorter so start walking early in October – if something were to go wrong you would have much less daylight to seek help than in the summer, which should also be borne in mind when deciding what to bring with you.
The Guisane Valley in autumn
Where to base yourself
The main town in the Briançonnais is Briançon, which is also the most central place to stay. Details of tourist information can be found in Appendix C. Briançon is well served by accommodation and restaurants and the historical old town is fascinating, but after a night or two most walkers will prefer to locate themselves somewhere more rural. The fantastic towns, villages and hamlets in the region are too numerous to list exhaustively but the following all make good bases.
Vallouise (www.tourisme-lavallouise.com tel +33 (0)4 92 23 36 12) is set in the stunning Vallouise Valley about 20min from Briançon and is perhaps the nicest place to stay. In the centre, there is a lovely 15th century church, a supermarket, a hotel and a couple of shops and restaurants. There are also hotels, gîtes and campsites nearby. In the peak summer season bookings should be made in advance. There is great mountain biking and via ferrata here too, and equipment can be rented in the valley.
The magnificent setting of the village of Vallouise
Névache (www.nevache-tourisme.fr tel +33 (0)4 92 20 02 20). Located towards the top of the Clarée Valley, 20min drive from Briançon, its bucolic setting makes for a relaxing place to stay. There are some hotels, gites and restaurants and a beautiful campsite beside the river.
Montgenèvre (www.montgenevre.com tel +33 (0)4 92 21 52 52), a popular ski resort about 15min from Briançon, has many hotels and restaurants.
Le Monetier-les-Bains (www.serrechevalier.com/www.serre-chevalier.com tel +33 (0)4 92 24 98 98) is an attractive little town between Briançon and la Grave. It is home to a fantastic natural spring complex and plenty of restaurants and places to stay.
La Grave (www.lagrave-lameije.com tel +33 (0)4 76 79 90 05) is a pretty town set in front of the famous mountain la Meije (3983m). The many hotels, restaurants and bars are perfectly situated for those who wish to soak up the view of this permanently snowy peak. For something different to do, there is a cable car from the town up to the Glacier de la Girose.
Accommodation
Accommodation of all types is plentiful throughout the Briançonnais. During the French summer holidays it’s advisable to book ahead. Outside of these times you should have no problems finding a pleasant place to stay, but be aware that in early spring and from mid-September onwards some accommodation will be closed.
Hotels
The range of available hotel accommodation is wide but quality can vary. The majority of hotels will be in the one to three star categories. There are a few four star hotels, but the five star is a very rare species indeed. Most hotels will offer breakfast and evening meals and the half board rates can be very good. These days many hotels are part of the Logis chain and details of their hotels can be found at www.logishotels.com. In this digital age, independent hotels in the region normally have their own websites too.
Self-catering chalets and apartments
For those wishing to stay in the same place for a week or more, self catering accommodation can be excellent value, particularly for families or groups. It is not too difficult to find a high quality chalet or apartment with a garden or terrace and a very fine view. Most immobiliers (estate agents) rent self-catering accommodation. However, English speakers may find it easier to avail of the good rates that can be found with Alp Base (see Appendix C).
Gîtes d’étape
A gîte is a difficult thing to define. Traditionally it would have been akin to a youth hostel, offering beds in dormitories and evening meals. Nowadays, however, as travellers are more demanding, gîtes are more upmarket – private rooms are normally available and blankets have largely been replaced by duvets. The accommodation in some gîtes is in fact better than many hotels but it pays to check before you book. Many gîtes now have their own websites.
Chambres d’hôte
Generally these approximate to bed and breakfast accommodation in the UK. Quality can vary widely – some can be better than hotels but others are little more luxurious than a mountain hut.
Refuges
These are mountain huts which offer dormitory accommodation and meals. Many also have private rooms. Duvets and sheets are becoming the norm and hopefully the itchy blanket is a thing of the past. To stay in a refuge, you will need to bring a sleeping sheet, a thin bag made of silk or cotton. These can be purchased cheaply at most outdoor shops in the UK or France or, sometimes, they can be rented for a small charge.
Refuges are often located deep within the mountains and accessible only to the walker. This is mountain travel at its finest, with no need to carry heavy gear or food. Wine and beer is usually available and if you are lucky the gardien may let you try his secret stash of homemade Génépy, a potent liqueur made from a plant only found in the high mountains. Most importantly refuges are good value – a bed for the night, dinner and breakfast should cost less than €50.
Campsites
Most towns and villages will have campsites and the services which they offer vary greatly. They will all have toilet and shower facilities but some have swimming pools and restaurants too. Wild camping or bivouacking may be tolerated provided that you only stay for a night. If you do camp out ensure that you carry out all rubbish and bury any toilet waste well away from watercourses.
Briançon viewed from the well preserved city walls (Walk 30)
Safety
On a sunny day the Alps can appear to be a benign paradise, but it only takes a change in the weather or a twisted ankle to turn a pleasant day out into something potentially life threatening. This should not put you off, but it is wise to treat the mountains with the respect they deserve and to be aware of your own experience levels and physical capabilities. The following is a non-exhaustive list of recommendations.
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