Throughout the 19th century new military threats (including technological advancements with artillery) led to Vauban’s fortifications being further strengthened. Some new forts were constructed during this period.
The Briançonnais saw no fighting during the First World War, but thousands of young men lost their lives fighting in other parts of France. During the Second World War, the region was occupied by the Italians (still allied with Germany) from 1940 to 1942: it is said that they were relatively civilised masters. When Italy switched sides in September 1943 things changed significantly, as a more stringent German presence was then maintained in Briançon. Various resistance organisations were active in the region, attacking German supply routes. Briançon was finally liberated in September 1944.
After the war, with the decline of traditional industries such as coal mining and silk production, the development of a ski resort at Chantemerle in the Guisane Valley, which had commenced in the 1930s, continued in earnest. In the 1950s and 1960s Serre Chevalier became firmly established as a credible ski resort. In the 1980s a ski lift was finally constructed in Briançon itself. Other than agriculture, tourism is the principal industry in Briançonnais.
Wildlife
There are many animals and birds which may be encountered in the Briançonnais. As a general rule of thumb, the earlier hours of the morning are best for sightings. Very often the first party on the trail may see many Chamois or Bouquetin, but following groups will not see any. The following is a list of key species to look out for:
Bouquetin (or Ibex) is a stocky goat-like animal, with long scimitar shaped horns. Hunted almost to extinction, it was saved by the Savoy kings who banned most hunting in 1821 and created a royal reserve in 1856 (which finally became Italy’s Gran Paradiso National Park). Nowadays they are fairly widespread throughout the French Alps.
A Bouquetin relaxing near l’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Walk 38)
Chamois is another type of mountain goat which is smaller and slimmer than the Bouquetin, and has shorter horns which do not have deep ridges.
Deer are commonly seen, especially the Chevreuil (Roe Deer) which can be reddish or grey-brown, and the Daim (Fallow Deer) which tends to be brown with white spots. Deer are most likely to be spotted below the tree line.
A marmot never fails to put a smile on your face
Marmots are cute, fat, loveable rodents which are easy to spot. They live in colonies in grassy parts of the mountains and often you will see them standing on their hind legs in the manner of a meerkat. Normally you will hear their sharp warning whistle before you see them.
Sanglier or wild boar are common in forests but are hard to spot. They can be best described as hairy brown pigs with tusks. If you are lucky enough to see one then keep your distance because they can be dangerous.
Wolves were hunted to extinction in France in the 1930s, but in recent years they have crossed into France from Italy (where conservation efforts have increased their numbers). The walker is highly unlikely to see one, but they are present in the Briançonnais.
Other mammals such as squirrels, foxes, badgers and mice are fairly common below the tree line.
Fish are found in most rivers, streams and lakes. Species of trout are common, and many high alpine lakes also contain Arctic Char.
Lagopède (or Ptarmigan) is a grouse-like bird. Its plumage is white in the winter and largely brown in the summer.
Gypaète Barbu (or Bearded Vulture) is a vulture with a wingspan of up to 3m. Its German name is ‘Lammergeier’, which means ‘lamb-hawk’, stemming from the belief that the bird attacked lambs. It occurs naturally at relatively low densities, so a sighting is something to be savoured. The good news is that a sighting in the Hautes Alpes is much more likely than further north. Golden Eagles can also be spotted in the region.
The view north from the amazing Lac de Cristol (Walk 32)
Pastous
The Briançonnais is still a very rural area, and many of the ‘old ways’ are still alive. Sheep are still walked up into the high mountains to graze at the end of spring each year, and brought back down again to winter in the low valleys. Even today, the shepherd will often live in a tiny cabin or mountain hut throughout the grazing season.
A flock of sheep in front of the Arêtes de la Bruyère (Walks 37 and 38)
Traditionally, the flock would have had a dog (a ‘Pastou’ or ‘Patou’) to accompany it and to protect against bears, wolves and lynx. Wolves are once more a threat, so flocks of sheep in the Briançonnais still tend to have a Pastou attached to them. The Pastou is a very large, white, long haired dog which is related to an old Pyrenean breed. It will usually have been raised with the flock from a young age, so it forms a close bond with the sheep.
As they are working dogs whose job is to protect, they will often growl or bark if you approach the flock. Although uncommon, it is not unheard of for visitors to the French Alps to be bitten by a Pastou which felt that its sheep were being threatened. Accordingly, the best advice is to give them a wide berth. If you see a flock then it is wise to assume that there may be a Pastou with them. And be aware that from a distance the colour and texture of their coats makes them hard to spot amongst the sheep.
Notwithstanding the above advice, the author has had the following positive, although initially extremely unsettling, experience with a Pastou on the Col du Vallon in the Écrins National Park:
Early one beautiful morning in September, I sat alone on the top of the Col du Vallon enjoying the quality of light and solitude that can often only be found at that time of the morning. Lost in the splendour of the vista before me, the first thing I felt was light pressure on my back as something sat down behind me, so close that we were touching. Wondering who would have the audacity to invade my personal space in such a manner, I turned round and was shocked to come face to face with a goliath of a dog – a huge, shaggy, white Pastou. We were both seated, back to back, and yet its head towered above mine (or at least so it seemed!). My terror dissipated quickly, however, as he was gazing at me with the warm adoring eyes of a Labrador puppy. He gave me a lick on the cheek and when he lay down beside me; my instinctive reaction was to put my arm around him. We enjoyed ten minutes of the silent companionship that can only be experienced between a man/woman and his/her dog. He then got up and simply wandered away back to his flock, without looking back.
Although heart warming, such experiences are likely to be few and far between, and under no circumstances should you use this anecdote as rationale for trying to pet a Pastou. To ensure that your day in the mountains does not take an unpleasant turn, view the Pastous from afar.
Plants and flowers
Clockwise from left: Alpenrose, gentian, edelweiss and violas
The Haute Alpes is a veritable cornucopia of wild flowers. At the right time of year you will be astounded by the myriad of colours and sheer variety of the flora on display. May and June are normally the best months for flowers, which wait patiently throughout the winter for the snow to clear and then rapidly spring to life. That said, there are still plenty of flowers in other months.
A few of the best known alpine flowers in the Briançonnais include the following:
Alpenrose is a bright pink member of the Rhododendron family and is seemingly everywhere at altitude in late June and July. They are particularly abundant on Walks 32 (Tour du Grand Area) and 20 (Lac Palluel and Lac