175
Elias, The Civilizing Process. Габриель Тард сформулировал похожую модель «сверху вниз» еще в 1890-е.
176
Jürgen Habermas, The Transformation of the Public Sphere (Cambridge, 1989; 1st German edn, Germany, 1976).
177
Wolfgang Schivelbusch, Tastes of Paradise: A Social History of Spices, Stimulants and Intoxicants (New York, 1992).
178
Mintz, Sweetness and Power.
179
Сравните с более евроцентрической трактовкой: Fernand Braudel, The Structures of Everyday Life (New York, 1979/1981), 249—60.
180
Heinrich Barth, Reisen und Entdeckungen in Nord- und Zentralafrika in den Jahren 1849—55 (Wiesbaden, 1858/1980), 238, перевод мой.
181
Antonio de Alcedo, 1786, цитата из: Ross W. Jamieson, «The Essence of Commodification: Caffeine Dependencies in the Early Modern World», Journal of Social History, 2001: 269—94, 278. См. также: William Gervase Clarence-Smith, Cocoa and Chocolate, 1765–1914 (London, 2000); а также William Gervase Clarence-Smith & Steven Topik, eds., The Global Coffee Economy in Africa, Asia and Latin America, 1500–1989 (Cambridge, 2003).
182
Johann Kaspar Riesbeck, 1780, цитата в: Christian Hochmuth, Globale Güter – lokale Aneignung: Kaffee, Tee, Schokolade und Tabak im frühneuzeitlichen Dresden (Konstanz, 2008), 64, перевод мой.
183
Roman Sandgruber, Bittersüße Genüße: Kulturgeschichte der Genußmittel (Vienna, 1986), 80f.
184
Специальный импорт чая составил 540 тонн в 1724 году, однако при одинаковом весе чайные листья производят в четыре раза больше напитка. При подсчете я учитывал потерю веса при обжарке. Подсчеты основываются на данных по специальному импорту из: Elizabeth Boody Schumpeter, English Overseas Trade Statistics 1697–1808 (Oxford, 1960), таблица XVIII.
185
Здесь и далее см. Jamieson, «Essence of Commodification», Marcy Norton, «Tasting Empire: Chocolate and the European Internalization of Mesoamerican Aesthetics», American Historial Review 111, no. 3, 2006: 660—91; Michael D. Coe & Sophie D. Coe, The True History of Chocolate (London, 1996); а также Kenneth F. Kiple & Kriemhild Ornelas, eds., The Cambridge World History of Food, 2 vols. (Cambridge, 2000).
186
Jacob Spon, De l’usage, du caphé, du thé, et du chocolate (Lyon, 1671); я цитирую современный английский перевод: John Chamberlayne, The Manner of Making Coffee, Tea and Chocolate (London, 1685), переизданный в: Ellis, ed., Eighteenth-century Coffee-house Culture, Vol. IV, 105—11.
187
Цитата из: John Chamberlayne, The Natural History of Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, Tobacco (London, 1682), 4–5.
188
Chamberlayne, The Manner of Making Coffee. For Red Sea piracy, see K. N. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company, 1660–1760 (Cambridge, 1978), 361.
189
James Howell, 1650s, цитируется в: The Vertues of Coffee. Pepys’s diary, 24 April 1661.
190
James Howell, 1650s, цитируется в: The Vertues of Coffee.
191
Habermas, Transformation; Brian Cowan, The Social Life of Coffee: The Emergence of the British Coffeehouse (New Haven, 2005); Hochmuth, Globale Güter; James Livesey, Civil Society and Empire (New Haven, CT, 2009); Jean-Claude Bologne, Histoire des cafés et des cafetiers (Paris, 1993).
192
P. «Considerazioni sul Lusso», из: Il Caffè (Milan, 1764), 110, мой перевод.
193
Amanda Vickery, The Gentleman’s Daughter: Women’s Lives in Georgian England (New Haven, CT, 1998), 206—8.
194
Michael North, Genuß und Glück des Lebens: Kulturkonsum im Zeitalter der Aufklärung (Cologne, 2003), 209.
195
Jean de La Roque, An Historical Treatise Concerning the Original [sic] and Progress of Coffee, as well as in Asia as Europe (1715; London edition, 1732), repr. из: Ellis, ed., Eighteenth-century Coffee-house Culture, Vol. IV, 277–312. О Де Ла Роке см.: Ina Baghdiantz McCabe, Orientalism in Early Modern France: Eurasian Trade, Exoticism and the Ancien Regime (Oxford, 2008), 172f.
196
Anne McCants, «Poor Consumers as Global Consumers: The Diffusion of Tea and Coffee Drinking in the Eighteenth Century», Economic History Review 61, 2008: 172–200; Wouter Ryckbosch, «A Consumer Revolution under Strain: Consumption, Wealth and Status in Eighteenth-century Aalst», PhD thesis, Antwerp (2012); John Styles, «Lodging at the Old Bailey: Lodgings and Their Furnishing in Eighteenthcentury London», из: Gender, Taste and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700–1830, eds. John Styles & Amanda Vickery (New Haven, CT, 2006); а также Lorna Weatherill, Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660–1760 (London, 1996, 2nd edn).
197
Edward Eagleton, 1785, цитата из: Hohcheung Mui & Lorni Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-сentury England (London, 1987), 257. Для разнообразия см.: Jon Stobart, Sugar and Spice: Grocers and Groceries in Provincial England, 1650–1830 (Oxford, 2013), 50—6.
198
Hochmuth, Globale Güter, 134, 142.
199
Robert Batchelor, «On the Movement of Porcelains: Rethinking the Birth of the Consumer Society as Interactions of Exchange Networks, China and Britain, 1600–1750», из: Consuming