a great foil for embroidery
and/or patterned fabrics.
Oilcloth know-how ...
If you plan to sew with
laminated cloth regularly, it is
worth investing in a non-stick
sewing machine foot.
Canvas/denim Usually
used for the exterior of
bags, canvas is available in
different weights. Choose
the heaviest weight that your
sewing machine can cope
with. Canvas is strong and
it has rugged good looks. Be
sure to use a jeans needle
when sewing with canvas
and denim. I think canvas
looks best on larger bags such
as shoppers, messenger bags,
travel bags and beach bags.
Velvet This is a luxury fabric
that has fabulous depth
of colour and a strokeable
texture. The nicest velvet is
made from cotton. Velvet is
available in different weights
– choose the heaviest weight
that your sewing machine can
cope with. Velvet frays easily
so it’s wise to sew with a
wider seam allowance. If your
velvet is quite thick or you
will be sewing through a few
layers use a jeans needle. Try
using velvet for handbags,
clutches and special
occasion bags. Corduroy is
similar to velvet in its uses
and material qualities.
Wool/suiting fabric Usually
used for the exterior of bags,
wool is fabulous for bag
making. Wool is available in
different weights, patterns
and textures. Its incredible
depth of colour and its yummy
texture make wool a luxurious
fabric to work with and use.
Wool is hardwearing, but for
bag making it usually requires
interfacing of some kind. Wool
has a more open weave so a
strong dressmaking needle
is sufficient. Try using wools
for handbags, clutches and
messenger bags.
Silk/satin Used both as the exterior or
lining, silks and satins are luxury fabrics
that have beautiful looks, texture and
movement. Silk looks gorgeous pleated or
gathered. Try to stick to heavier weight
silk/satin because it’s more durable and
easier to sew with, while fine silk and
satin are very slippery. Natural dupion silk
is sturdy, has a lovely soft-sheen and an
interesting texture from the small slubs in
the fabric. Shimmery satin fabric makes a
glamorous lining in an evening bag. Use a
fine sewing machine needle when sewing
with silk or satin. Try using silk or satin for
any special occasion bags and purses.
Getting Started
Faux/real suede Usually used for the exterior of bags,
faux suede is similar in nature to velvet. Real suede
is dense and harder to sew through than woven faux
suede. If you feel that suede is too fragile for your bags
it can be strengthened with interfacing. Be sure to use
a leather needle for sewing suede. Try using real suede
for smaller special occasion bags and small handbags.
Real and faux leather is similar in its uses to suede but
has a shiny surface, often requiring a non-stick sewing
machine foot.
Fabric Preparation and Cutting
There’s nothing like making a start on a new sewing
project. But before you rush in with your scissors it’s worth
taking time to prepare and cut your fabrics in a methodical
way. The following tips will help you speed up the cutting
process and end up with a more professional-looking bag.
Fabric preparation tips
✧
✧
✧
✧
✧
✧
If you want to be able to wash your bags, you
will need to pre-wash your fabric to prevent the
fabric from shrinking during washing. Put your
fabric in a mesh bag to help prevent the raw
edges fraying in the washing machine.
Note: I don’t pre-wash my fabrics because I
don’t think it’s a good idea to wash bags. I
prefer to ‘spot wash’ by dabbing the affected
area with a moist cloth and a mild detergent.
Rather than washing your fabrics, you could
try using fabric protector sprays instead to help
repel dirt and block stains. Always read the
instructions and test the spray on a small piece
of your fabric first to ensure it is suitable.
Always iron your fabrics thoroughly before
cutting them.
Speed things up by ironing woven fusible
interfacing (if using) to the wrong side of fabrics
before cutting out. See Fig a.
A finger presser is a handy non-heat tool that
can be used in place of an iron. The flat surface
is angled so that it can effectively flatten seams
open or make folds in fabric – perfect for when
working with laminated cloth or for ‘quickie’
ironing jobs during sewing.
It is always a good idea to