because it’s faster than tracing the pattern and then cutting.
Fig d While the pattern is still pinned to the fabric, transfer
the various pattern markings onto the fabric.
Label snob …
Label your pattern pieces before and after
using them; fold them carefully, and
store in an envelope. Also store in the
envelope any notes you make during bag
construction, ready for next time.
Modifying
Patterns
If you are a sewing ‘newbie’ the thought of
deviating from a pattern may seem like a crazy
thing to do, but it’s actually very easy to make
pattern modifications to suit you (or your outfit!).
In their simplest form, bags are a front, a back
and a couple of handles. But you can jazz up
even a basic bag by changing its size, adding a
pocket, inserting a zip or a snap, or changing the
handles, for example. Here you will find guidance
on changing the size of the bag as the first step
to modifying a pattern. Because bag making is
less complicated than dressmaking you’ll find
that it’s far more forgiving if you haven’t quite
got the measurements 100 per cent right. In fact,
half the fun of bag making is that you can often
make it up as you go along. I do it all the time!
Getting Started
Increasing the size
•
First decide how much larger you would like
your finished bag to be. Take that measurement,
divide it in half and add that halved measurement
all around the edge of the bag pattern piece(s).
Say, for example, you want your finished bag to
be 10cm (4in) larger overall; you would add a 5cm
(2in) margin all around the outside of the bag
pattern piece(s). Always remember to add on your
seam allowance if you haven’t already.
•
N.B. If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place
on fold’ instruction you will need to add your
margin around all pattern edges except the edge
where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’.
Decreasing the size
•
First decide how much smaller you would like
your finished bag to be. Take that measurement,
divide it in half and subtract that halved
measurement from all around the edge of the
bag pattern piece(s). Say, for example, you want
your finished bag to be 10cm (4in) smaller overall;
you would subtract a 5cm (2in) margin from all
around the inside of the bag pattern piece(s),
remembering to include your seam allowance if
you haven’t already.
•
N.B. If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place
on fold’ instruction you will need to subtract your
margin from around all pattern edges except the
edge where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’.
Understanding Patterns
Besides the pattern shape, there is a variety of other
information on the pattern pieces. This brief guide will help
you understand what the terms mean and what they are for.
notch
pattern piece name and
standard information
Top
The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack
(Pocket Flap)
5 of 5
Includes 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance
snap marking
seam allowance
information
grain line
Language skills …
You’ll quickly become familiar with
sewing terms and abbreviations.
Keep referring back to these pages
until you become confident.
Getting Started
✧
Seam allowance – this is the distance between the edge
of the fabric piece(s) and the sewing machine needle.
So, if a pattern indicates that the seam allowance is 1cm
(3/8in), you need to sew your stitches 1cm (3/8in) in from the
edge of the fabric. A pattern should always state the seam
allowance size and whether or not it has been included in
the pattern.
✧
Grain lines – these are the two pointed arrows that help
you to align the pattern piece with the straight grain of the
fabric. The top arrow points to the top edge of the fabric
and the bottom arrow points to the bottom edge of the
fabric. The straight grain of the fabric runs parallel to the
selvedge (the non-fraying edge of the fabric, which often
has the company and fabric name printed on it).
✧
Fold lines – when a pattern piece says ‘place on fold’ you
need to fold your fabric wrong sides together and place
the appropriate edge of the pattern piece onto the fabric
fold. In this way, the resulting cut fabric piece will be
double the size; a mirror image joined at the fabric fold.
✧
Notches – these are the small vertical lines that appear on
the pattern piece outline. These useful markings help you
to match up seams and fabric edges accurately. Pattern
pieces that need joining up will have corresponding
notches. Transfer pattern notches to your fabric pieces
using a disappearing marker or make small nicks with