Other markings – magnetic snap/bag handle hook/zip
pocket etc. markings need to be traced onto your patterns,
and then transferred to your fabric pieces.
Glossary of terms and abbreviations
In addition to the patterns, you will also need to be able to
follow the written instructions for each technique or project.
The following terms are used throughout this book and in other
commercial patterns.
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Bag lining/bag exterior – most bags have a lining and
an exterior, which essentially means that most bags
consist of two bags (the inside bag and the outside
bag). Each bag is made separately before being joined
together towards the end of construction. In this book
I refer to the inside bag as the ‘lining bag’ and the
outside bag as the ‘exterior bag’.
Clip – clipping your seam allowance helps seams lie flat
when you turn your project right side out by reducing
bulk in the seams (especially curved seams). For
inward curves cut small V-shapes pointing towards the
stitching along the seam allowance close, but not too
close, to the stitching. For outward curves make small
scissor nicks pointing towards the stitching (again, not
too close to the stitching).
Clip corners – snipping off the seam allowance reduces
bulk in the seams of straight corners and makes for
smoother and sharper corners on your bag when it is
turned right side out. This results in neater rectangular
pockets or fabric straps, for example. Before turning
right side out, trim off the corner tips of your work
close, but not too close, to the stitching.
Raw edges – refers to the cut, unstitched and
unfinished edges of fabric.
Sewing in a box formation – particularly useful for
stitching strap ends down securely onto your work.
Stitch the item in a box shape for extra strength
and durability.
Topstitching – a line of stitches that runs close and
parallel to an edge on the right side of your work. The
distance between the stitches and the edge will vary
according to your preference or the instructions in
the project. Topstitching is very useful in that it often
serves both decorative and reinforcing functions.
Turning right side out (sometimes abbreviated
– TRSO) – simply means that you need to turn your
(inside out) work the right way out. Turning wrong
side out means the reverse of the above.
WS – wrong side – the reverse or back of your work
or fabric.
WST – wrong sides together – bring two pieces of
fabric together so that the wrong sides of the fabrics
are touching each other.
WSO – wrong side out – the wrong side of your work/
fabric is facing outwards.
WSU – wrong side up – the wrong side of your work/
fabric is facing upwards.
RS – right side – the good or the front side of your fabric
or work.
RST – as WST, but with the right side.
RSO – as WSO, but with the right side.
RSU – as WSU, but with the right side.
Getting Started
Fabric Types
Fabric falls into two main categories: dress (or fashion)
weight and upholstery/curtain (or home dec) fabric. As bag
makers, we can use both types – dress-weight fabric is
generally better suited to bag linings and upholstery fabric
is better for bag exteriors, However, that is only a loose
rule and there are interfacing tricks that you can apply
to your fabrics to override that rule. Here are some fabric
suggestions that work a treat for bag making.
Cotton/quilt fabric This
type of fabric is used both in
the lining and the exterior
of bags. Cotton is available
in many different weights,
but for bag making try to
use mid-weight cotton and
up. Quilting fabric is usually
made from cotton and
comes in a fantastic array of
colourful, beautiful and fun
prints. You can use cotton for
almost any type of bag.
Getting Started
Laminated cloth/oilcloth
Usually used for the exterior
of bags, this vinyl-coated
fabric comes in fantastic
prints and has a tough
waterproof surface, making it
perfect for swim bags, travel
bags and wash bags. The
vinyl has a tendency to stick
to the bed of your sewing
machine making sewing with
it quite awkward (see tip).
Linen This versatile,
hardwearing and natural
fabric is available in
both dress and home dec
weight. The linen that bag
makers like to use is the
natural biscuit-coloured
home dec weight fabric.
The colour of the undyed
cloth with its attractive