Gather as much information as possible to unlock the options, paint code, and powertrain on a particular Chrysler B-Body when it left the factory.
The Dutchman panel, or window valance as it is commonly called, is often corroded because the factory rear window featured very poor drainage. This left water to collect and ultimately corrode the metal. (Photo Courtesy Ryan Brutt)
Unlike fender tags, which attached with screws to the inner wheelwell inside the engine bay, build sheets were either tucked in the underside of a seat or beneath the carpet. Both the fender tag and broadcast sheet (as well as the VIN) are easily identified.
Next, verify if the engine, transmission, and rear end are original to the car. Although the prospect of an aftermarket big-block swap into a small-block or 6-cylinder might be attractive, it’s important to know whether the person doing the swap would need to upgrade the suspension to accommodate the dramatic change in weight, the engine cradle (K-member), and electrical systems.
How about the auxiliaries? What power options did the car originally come with and are they intact? Air conditioning, power brakes, and power steering are common options that can be disconnected, removed, or replaced if not kept in good running condition.
Although body panels vary from model to model, below is a collection of “trouble spots” commonly found on 1966–1970 Chrysler B-Bodies that are susceptible to rust.
Body and Panel Alignment
Next, and most obvious, is the condition of the body. Depending on the completion of the car itself, this may take some time. I suggest bringing a magnet to run along the body, as a magnet loses its pull when it encounters body filler. Look for bubbling, pitting, or discoloring in the paint, as these are sure signs of rust rising up to the surface. Major areas to observe are in the rear quarters, around the rear window, at the bottom rear of the front fenders, and along the running boards.
Open the doors and inspect the jambs, doorsill, and hinges. If possible, peel back a portion of carpet to get a good look at the floorpan. Inside of the trunk is imperative too. Unfortunately, Chryslers have some “trouble areas” that were notorious for rust, one being the “Dutchman panel,” the portion of sheet metal between the rear window and the deck lid.
Next, get down on your hands and knees and look at the condition of the frame rails, trunk, and floorboards. A topical or “quickie” paint job can cover up surface rust but often doesn’t address the undercarriage. It’s also a good opportunity to observe the condition of the brake and fuel lines for breaks, missing clips or hangars, and damage.
The lower ends of the front fenders suffered greatly from rust because of two key factors: (1) drainage from the roof’s A-pillar ran down between the fender and doorjamb, and (2) rain and moisture collected where the fender bolted to the running boards. Thankfully, the inside of each fender was sprayed with an undercoating, but often the application was incredibly shoddy and uneven.
Although the lower quarter panels were dipped in a rust-preventive primer, cars that lived in severely cold and wet climates or where roads were salted during the winter are often found with rust bubbling up through the paint.
It’s commonly understood that cars optioned with vinyl tops fared the worst, as the vinyl top, albeit an attractive option, retained quite a bit of moisture. Roofs were left unpainted, sealed with only a thin coat of primer from the factory, and thereby vulnerable to cancerous rust.
Years of moisture and sunshine can deteriorate a dash and cluster to nearly unsalvageable condition. Be prepared for discolored gauges and cracked steering wheels that need attention. Many of these parts need reconditioning, as replacements are not available in the reproduction market.
Finally, look closely at the body panel alignment. Using a coin or even your fingertip to check seam gaps, look for unevenness or warping. Again, chips in the paint around the edges of the doorsills, trunk, and hood can be signs of misalignment. Other telltale signs include whether the factory seam sealer is in place and whether new welds can be observed either inside the trunk or in the undercarriage. You can use the old trick of rolling a marble to see if it rolls smoothly. Ultimately, you’re looking to see if all the panels were hung correctly and if the car suffered severe damage in a wreck that distorted the car’s frame.
Interior Components
Finally, find out how modified the interior of the car is. How original is the car? Are the gauges original? The steering wheel or column? How about the radio? The presence of an aftermarket radio and speakers, and how cleanly the installation was, often gives a good indication about other modifications made to the car. Chasing hundreds of feet of wiring can be a tiring exercise when trying to find a broken signal; it can be avoided with a careful review of the car in question.
Running and Stopping
Although it’s unlikely that your project car is running, if you’re looking at a “driver” take it for a 20-minute test. Listen for squeaks, rattles, chatter, clunks, or any other sounds. These might be indicators of loose, misaligned, or broken parts. Pay close attention to how the car handles, accelerates, and stops. All of these can reveal what kind of project you’re walking into.
Finally, and quite possibly the most important of all of these steps to consider prior to purchasing a Mopar project car, is deciding your goals for this build. There are many ways to build these cars, as they excel in so many different areas. As an OEM-level restoration, possibly no other chassis of domestic muscle car retains greater value, demand, and general appeal than the B-Body Chryslers: Dodge Chargers, Plymouth Road Runners, Super Bees, Daytonas, and the like.
If you’re interested in building a street/strip performer, Mopar B-Bodies have an excellent track record, and when built right, are nearly unstoppable. Mopar B-Body project cars are well represented in major enthusiast magazines. Likewise, the B-Body chassis has become a favored platform for many autocross and G-Machine builders, if top-level handling and street performance is your goal.
Even if you’re hoping just to enjoy a slightly warmed-over street-worthy driver, it’s important to make that decision now. This allows you ample time to plan for expenses such as aftermarket performance parts, time at an engine dyno, and so on.
We cannot emphasize enough how crucial it is to your project to fully realize the ultimate goal of your build and, this is key, not deviate from it. Executing a build to its fullest and final extent requires a great deal of commitment, discipline, and patience. Changing thematic direction mid-build is almost fatal to a project car. Now is the time to decide what kind of car you want your project to be and plan accordingly.
The journey from discovery to full recovery can be an arduous one, but equally fulfilling. Personally undertaking such a task can appear daunting at first but is a major source of personal pride when completed.