It is very likely that some parts on your Mopar muscle car have already been spirited away, particularly if the car came equipped with rare parts or a desirable engine.
Unlike rebuilding a Ford Mustang or Chevrolet Camaro, undertaking a Mopar project vehicle poses some unique and expensive challenges. Even the most mass-produced Chrysler B-Bodies’ numbers pale when compared to the sheer quantities of the other manufacturers. Although rarity and obscurity lends itself to greater demand for a finished restoration, so too does it elevate the cost of parts necessary to complete your project. Even the most run-of-the-mill 318-powered Dodge or Plymouth B-Body can surprise you by depleting your checkbook in little time. Budgeting for a project vehicle requires considering how much money you are willing to spend to purchase the car, and then weighing all of the work necessary to bring the project to driving condition.
It’s a widely understood maxim that spending more money upfront for a more complete car can actually save you quite a bit in the long run. Although an original 440+6 Road Runner might sound like a fun car to have, a stripped-bare hulk sitting on its frame rails is missing much more than meets the eye.
Missing linkages, air cleaner components, and other oddities that you might not immediately consider can add up very quickly. Obviously, the closer the project is to being a functioning automobile the better; you spend less time scouring message boards and online vendors for the rare oddities that are no longer available.
Buying a Car: Is It Original?
We have all seen ads using the key words and phrases “numbers matching,” “all original,” “survivor,” and “NOS parts,” only to discover a car that may or may not be all it was said to be. Armed with knowledge, documented numbers, and a desire to check all the most important identifiers, you can verify the claims.
The old adage “You can fool some of the people some of the time, but not all of the people all of time” applies to the many sellers who try to fool potential buyers. However, even the best cannot hide reality when a knowledgeable buyer inspects the car. The value of a true numbers-matching car far outweighs the value of a car that has none of its original equipment. Whether you are buying the car to drive or as an investment, documenting the car before you purchase it can mean fewer headaches, more value, and increased peace of mind when and if you do decide to sell the car.
Again, because of the low production numbers of Chrysler B-Bodies compared to their across-town rivals, the size of the aftermarket is equally slim. Don’t expect to walk into your local speed shop or classic car swap meet and walk out with what you need, or not pay a premium.
Likewise, as we’ve mentioned above, some extremely desirable and therefore expensive Chryslers are out there. This might tempt you to perform a “re-creation” or passable “clone,” converting a low-optioned vehicle into a high-optioned one. This can be and is regularly done throughout the industry, but it isn’t as easy as you might think.
Even converting a lowly small-block–powered Dodge Charger into a winged Daytona is a massive undertaking that can cost well over $20,000 in just the nosecone, wing, and rear window plug. Unless you have the initial capital to invest, do not enter into a project that will deplete your savings before you get the chance to enjoy the finished product.
Next, consider how much of the work you’re willing to do yourself. Truly assessing your skill level is one of the hardest things to do. We all want to believe we’re capable of anything, but now is the time to admit where your shortcomings are in regard to restoring a classic Mopar. It’s okay. Nobody will think any less of you for being honest.
This step is equally as valuable in your project budgeting as selecting the right car. How? Only when fairly weighing what portions of the build you’re willing to do yourself versus outsourcing are you able to better approximate your expenses.
Consider whether you will handle the disassembly, labeling, and cataloging. How about the bodywork and rust removal? Do you have a welder and metal tools? Do you trust yourself to do all of the preparation prior to painting your project? How about rebuilding the engine and drivetrain? Wiring and plumbing?
These are a small selection of larger tasks that complete the restoration of the project. In this book, we provide an outline to help you break down the many steps necessary in disassembling, restoring, and reassembling a classic Mopar B-Body muscle car. But it’s up to you to decide what steps you take yourself, and those that you farm out.
If you want to prep and paint the car yourself, you need to compile a comprehensive list of tools, equipment, and materials as well as schedule the time and budget. In both cases round up. There’s never any harm in coming in under budget. We outline everything you need to prep, paint, and finish an OEM-level restoration that you can use as a guide. If you opt instead to send your car out for paint and bodywork, now is the time to start researching local and reputable body shops, ideally those that have classic automotive experience.
Even before purchasing a project car, consider spending some much needed “due diligence” by acquiring catalogs of the major aftermarket suppliers that specialize in Mopars (YearOne, Classic Industries, B/E&A Restoration Parts, Dante’s Parts, etc.). This provides a very general understanding of the costs of highly consumable parts such as interior components, brake and suspension parts, trim, emblems, and much more.
After you’ve read the chapters about how to strip, do bodywork, paint, and polish your project car, you may say, “I can’t do all that. I need to find a good shop to get my car in paint.”
Finding a good shop to restore your vintage Mopar is not as easy as going to the closest repair shop and asking for an estimate. What do you ask first, or for that matter what do you ask last? Finding a quality shop that knows Mopars and how to restore them, and that can turn your car around in a timely manner and not jack up the price along the way, is one of your most important decisions.
Having your engine balanced and blueprinted gives your powerplant the best viability for survival and is highly recommended. It certainly helps when your restoration shop has a dyno in-house as well.
Internet Sources
In the age of the Internet you can find literally thousands of places to buy a 1966–1970 B-Body Plymouth or Dodge. The days of looking in the local newspaper classified section are long gone. But that is a good thing. It is a very good thing. In the classifieds you could only get a short description and a phone number to call.
With the “classified” ads on the Internet you can see detailed pictures or view a video of the car. You can even find out exactly where the car is located. You can also investigate online auctions.
But with all of this information as close as your computer screen or phone display you still must be careful and take all necessary steps to avoid getting burned. The saying “Buyer Beware” is just as true today as it was 25 years ago.
Websites
Three of the most popular sites to search are eBay.com, CarsOnLine.com, and