Mopar B-Body Restoration. Kevin Shaw

as it adds so much personality to the car. The following are some helpful tips to properly removing a B-Body’s brightwork.

       Several tools work to release these clips. The windshield clip removal tool is ideal for removing the stainless trim, and the other end can be used to install the front windshield rubber seal tuckable flap.

       All the stainless on the window trim of all of these cars, whether vinyl top or not, is of the same design. It is held on around the windows with a clip that snaps into the trim’s rolled edge. These clips are often rusted and difficult to release without damaging the stainless trim.

       Corners and drip rail moldings require careful removal techniques. Use pliers with plastic inserts so you do not damage the trim. Pry from the bottom up a little at a time and it comes off. A screw that is under the top window seal’s stainless trim secures the corner. This piece of trim must be removed to access the screw.

       This corner trim piece is used on cars with or without vinyl tops but without belt line moldings. On the Dodge models the belt line molding actually attaches to the drip-rail molding.

       All of the stainless trim shown on this post B-Body must be carefully removed and polished. Very thin seal retainers screw into the roof rail and must be removed before you can remove the drip-rail molding. It must be installed in the reverse order.

       The front and rear window stainless clips are different and cannot be interchanged. Notice the spacing of the front window clips, which starts at intervals of about 1¾ inches from the corner of the channel. When you are ready to re-install the stainless, mark the position of each clip with masking tape on the body so you know where to apply the pressure to snap the trim into the clip.

       After the car has been painted attach the front and rear stainless clips with a small screw. The old clip screw has often been enlarged and cannot be reused. You simply re-drill the hole moving it over an inch or two but at the same depth as the original.

       The drip rail molding and all of the door seals can be installed before the front and rear glass stainless. Leave the installation of the windshield until last just in case you have problems with the dash electrical components.

       It is important to place the corner clip in the original position. If it is too close to the corner the trim does not lay flat and if it is too far away from the corner it does not snap all the way down. Space it about 1¾ inches from the corner of the channel.

       Add the clips after you install the vinyl top. Then install the glass with the rubber seal. You must mark the clip locations and pop the polished stainless into place. To help the trim pop into place much easier put a small amount of grease on each clip where it will touch the trim.

       CHAPTER 4

       BODYWORK

      Removing rust, straightening body panels, and correcting bodylines and gaps are difficult and important steps to restoring a car. This aspect of the restoration can be the longest, most expensive, and most frustrating. It can also be the most rewarding.

      Before you begin the bodywork, you have to know what kind of budget you have, your skills, and what facilities and equipment are available. You can choose to have a shop complete all the work, or you can do some of the work yourself and have someone else paint, or you might be able to do it all yourself.

      Whatever path you choose begin by taking time to evaluate the rust areas that need to be addressed and either decide on a shop or make plans to complete the work yourself.

       Unfortunately, it’s difficult to fully assess the extent of 50 years of weather and water damage until a car is fully stripped to its barest core. Also, there is no truer “square one” to begin your restoration. (Photo Courtesy Historic Restorations)

      This chapter helps you think through the bodywork process and make a solid, wise decision about what avenue is best for your situation and how to get to the finished, painted car that you will love and show with great pride.

Rust! It’s a Dirty Word!