• Front and rear carburetors (stamped with 24 on driver’s side)
• Choke pull-down, Holley 54
• Idle stop solenoid, hex-head (PN DR1114420)
• Spark plugs (Champion J11Y)
• Oil plug, indented
• Ballast resistor (PN 2095501)
• Axle strap and stamp (build sheet 108; 999)
• Radiator (PN 054)
Federal VIN Label or Door Sticker
In 1969 only on the Charger Daytona, and in 1970 on all cars, an additional sticker that has the full VIN was attached to the driver-side door. On 1966–1967 cars a chrome plate is attached to the front driver-side door frame. These can be reproduced so check the tag for signs of wear to determine if it is original.
Numbers Matching?
Now the question is, Do you have a numbers-matching car if all of these numbers match your car’s VIN or SO number? The answer is yes! But, you must also verify that the cast and stamped date codes of each of these areas precede the build date of the car. Watch for engine and transmission pads that have grind marks different from the factory machine marks, and make sure the stamps use the correct font.
Some people say that the date codes for the rear end, radiator, wiper motor, etc. must match for the car to be “numbers matching.” It is our opinion that these other parts may be date-code correct, but could come from other cars. They did not have the vehicle’s unique identification number issued at the factory and therefore are not required to make the car “numbers matching.”
Date codes and part numbers provide an opportunity to determine just how original the car is and further establish its value. Almost every component of these cars is date coded and/or has its original part number. These date codes always precede the car’s build date and can also help when you do need to replace non-original parts during the restoration.
In the case of the engine and transmission it is normal for the casting date to precede the build date by 60 days and the assembly date by 30 days. Other parts can precede the build date by as much as six months. The major exception to this rule is with the 1969½ 6-barrel and 6-Pack Road Runners and Super Bees. They only have two build dates on their fender tags, either 3 29 or 4 26. However, these cars were built as late as July and, therefore, to the inexperienced the date codes of their parts are in fact after the build date on the tag, but still correct for that car depending on when it was actually produced.
You may know many things about a vehicle before you buy it. But you must inspect the car in person. Many cars exchange hands over the Internet and across many miles. If you cannot inspect the car in person before you buy it hire a professional to inspect it for you. If that is not financially feasible ask for as many detailed pictures as possible from the seller. Specifically request the items you want to see and focus on the numbers-matching areas first. The closer to original the car and its parts, the easier the restoration.
The word restoration is used very broadly in the classic car hobby. It means to return a car to its original condition when it left the dealer. Unfortunately, not many enthusiasts take that to heart with their project.
Variations to the original condition that are acceptable to you are usually based on finances and what you really want to do with the car to fully enjoy it. By applying the information in this chapter you know what you are buying up front, and its value, so that a fair price can be agreed upon.
Now that you have your project car purchased, documented, and safely stored in your garage the task of restoration can seem overwhelming. From this point forward it is tempting to simply start taking everything apart and tossing it in the corner just like the guys on TV. But that is the last thing you should do. Take your time and take as many pictures as possible throughout the disassembly process. They will help you when it’s time to put the car back together.
Remove all the trim, headlights, taillights, glass, interior, and steering column. Remove the doors, hood, and trunk lid. Examine whether the parts can be used, document and bag the small parts, tag the large ones, and box and store them in a dry, secure place.
You quickly realize that a car that is assembled takes up much less room than all of its parts. That means organization is one of the keys to success for a restoration project.
Choosing to rescue a forgotten muscle car might save you money up front but can be costly when you begin to unravel all of the damage caused by years of neglect. (Photo Courtesy Ryan Brutt)
The first thing to do is purchase several sizes of Ziploc bags, permanent markers, boxes of different sizes, and paper tags with a wire that can be attached to large components.
Each part that is removed should be bagged or tagged, sorted, and organized by the specific area the parts came from. If this is your first full restoration it is very easy to label the parts that make sense at the moment, but in two years you find yourself scratching your head and completely lost as to what the part is and where it goes. This is especially true when it comes to bolts, nuts, clips, and fasteners. Do not toss them into a coffee can and think you can put it all back the same way it came off. The description you write on the bag or tag must clearly identify the part.
Next, put the small Ziploc bags in boxes for storage. On the outside of the box write a list of the contents and place it on a shelf. As you bag and tag each part document it as to whether it is an original or a replacement.
The disassembly phase is a good time to start a list of parts that need to be replaced. A spread sheet of part needs is a great way to note where you bought the part, how much you paid for it, and what you still need to find. Do not throw away anything, even if it is not usable. You may need it for reference, or maybe it has a clip that you use later.
Bagging and labeling your parts as they are removed is crucial for reassembling the car. Organize each series of bags noting what area of the car they came from.
The disassembly process depends on how you plan to restore the car. If you have a shop and you are going to do a total rotisserie restoration, everything comes off the car all at once. This means that you must have all the parts labeled and stored according to the specific area of the car. If you are planning a rolling restoration where you take the car to someone else’s shop, you only disassemble the car to the point where it can still be moved.
Therefore, the suspension remains on the car. And if you plan on driving the car while you are working on it you only do one area at a time. An example is to restore the drivetrain first and then tackle the trunk, followed by the interior, and finally the paint. If you are planning on competing at a high level such as the Mopar Nationals or the Antique Automobile Club of America you have to do a complete rotisserie restoration.