Another cause that I have found is sealing the jar when the preserve is warm. Do one of two things as the recipe states: either seal it as soon as it is potted, providing the jam, etc. is boiling or, if you have waited for it to cool (in the case of whole fruit preserves) to give a better dispersal of fruit, then allow it to become quite cold before sealing. The jar should be properly sealed with wax discs and a lid or cellophane tied down with a rubber band. Cellophane covers should be checked from time to time during keeping to make sure that they have not perished. Store all preserves in cool, dry cupboards away from bright lights, damp, steam and well off concrete floors.
SAFETY IN THE KITCHEN
Boiling jam, syrup or chutney can cause some of the worse scalds and burns imaginable, so never, ever leave your children alone in the kitchen when you are preserving or, better still, do not let them in at all when they are small. If they have to be in the kitchen, make sure that all pans are on the back plates and no handles are sticking out.
For your own protection, never wear flowing sleeves or unbuttoned cardigans, which may catch on, or trail in, the pan. They may also catch on unexpected protuberances in the kitchen and jar the arm that is holding a pan full of boiling contents.
Try to use preserving pans with two-handed grips, not long handles. In this way, you avoid catching the handle as you move around and it also gives you a firm two-handed grip on the pan. All old-fashioned preserving pans were made in this way. A side-to-side handle across the pan can also be dangerous if it catches on its hooks and tips the contents on to your floor, front or feet. Unless handles are absolutely insulated, wear kitchen gloves for holding them.
Always use the back rings of the cooker and keep the pan away from the front where it can tip over and where you have to lean across it. Long-handled wooden spoons are invaluable, for wood does not conduct heat and the long handle will protect you against popping bubbles of erupting jam, etc. Wear an oven glove to protect your hand. A solid plastic measuring jug and funnel make filling jars much easier and, if you stand the jars on a thick cloth or wooden board, this will prevent them from slipping or cracking. Wipe up any liquid or pieces of fruit or vegetable skin, etc, that may have dropped on the floor and try to think of wearing flat-soled, well-fitting shoes.
ARTICHOKE
There are two different types of artichokes readily available in the UK. The globe artichoke is the blue-green thistly plant, which throws out spectacular blue flowers if left too long (by which time the coveted heart will be of no use, so cut off the heads before they open out). Most globe artichokes are imported.
The Jerusalem artichoke is a very decorative plant, but the root is the part that is used as a vegetable. Knobbly and difficult to peel, it has the most unique, rather smoky, nutty taste, which many people find very appealing.
Artichoke Pickle
I think this pickle goes superbly well with smoked fish. The lemon gives a strange pungency to the delicate nutty flavour of the artichoke and it also has the added advantage of looking attractive and unusual. Don’t throw the vinegar away – it is excellent in its own right and particularly good with fish or in a salad dressing or mayonnaise.
MAKES 3 X 375G JARS
1kg Jerusalem artichokes
50g sea salt
2 lemons
4 bay leaves
1.5 litres white malt vinegar
3 x 375g sterilised jam jars
Wash the artichokes and scrub them well with a small brush. Peel them (this is a tricky business, but it’s got to be done properly). Cut any large artichokes in half and drop them all into a pan of boiling water to which you have added the 50g salt. Cover and cook until just tender; do not overcook because they are liable to disintegrate.
Whilst they are cooking, take the peel from the lemons in thin strips with a vegetable peeler, removing the pith as you go. Put this with the bay leaves and vinegar into a pan and boil for 15 minutes. Allow the vinegar to cool, drain off and keep the peel and bay leaves.
When the artichokes are just cooked, drain them and pack them carefully into the jars, dispersing the peel and bay leaves decoratively amongst them. Pour the cold vinegar over the contents of the jars to cover completely. Seal and label.
Keep for at least 4 weeks before using.
Globe Artichoke Pickle
This is an amazing pickle. If fresh artichokes are unavailable or you are a bit pushed for time, with discretion, tinned artichoke hearts can be used here instead.
MAKES 3 X 500ML JARS
12 small globe artichoke hearts or bottoms
1 tablespoon lemon juice
600ml white wine or white malt vinegar
24 small white pearl onions
50g black raisins
3 pinches of white granulated sugar
3 pinches of sea salt
3 thin strips of lemon rind
3 small garlic cloves, peeled
3 fresh basil leaves
1 litre white wine or cider vinegar
3 bay leaves
3 x 500ml wide-necked sterilised jam jars
(preferably Kilner jars
Place the artichokes in a large pan, cover them with cold water and add the lemon juice, bring to the boil and simmer for 7 minutes. Drain and place in a large china bowl. Remove the outer foliage until the heart appears. Cut it out, remove the choke, trim and return the hearts to the bowl, cover with the white vinegar and leave overnight.
The next day, peel the onions and blanch them briefly in boiling water. Rinse the raisins in boiling water. Drain the artichoke hearts.
Into each jar place a pinch of sugar and a pinch of salt, 1 piece of lemon peel, 1 peeled garlic clove and 1 basil leaf. Pack the jars with an equal amount of artichoke hearts, onions and raisins and place them on a thick cloth.
Bring the white wine or white malt vinegar briefly to the boil and pour slowly over the contents of the jars (although commercial jam jars are pretty heatproof it is wiser to pour the hot liquid into them slowly and to keep the work surface protected). Add a bay leaf to each jar, seal tightly and label.
Keep for at least 1 week before using and tip each jar gently every day to allow the flavours to circulate.
BEAN
What a beautifully evocative word bean is, summing up the best in British vegetables. Everybody, no matter how small the space allotted them, should be able to grow at least one variety and reap a modest crop, for beans are accommodating, good-natured and productive.
The one bean that I would grow above all