French beans, dwarf or stringless beans are smooth and rounded, requiring only topping and tailing. Runner or scarlet beans are longer and flatter than French beans and have to be strung and sliced before cooking. Both of these green beans are abundant croppers and British-grown ones should be widely available. Recipes including French and runner beans are dotted throughout this book as they make more interesting pickles when used in conjunction with other vegetables and fruit.
Pickled Broad Beans
Pickled broad beans are a wonderful addition to the hors d’oeuvre table and make a stunning present – especially if given with a jar of Pickled Artichokes.
MAKES 2 X 375G JARS
1kg unpodded broad beans
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 orange
1 garlic clove
2 cardamom pods
2.5cm piece of dried root ginger
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
600ml white malt vinegar
2 x 375g sterilised jam jars
Shell the beans and do not be alarmed at the meagre remains of your kilogram. Put them in a pan of boiling water to which you have added the salt. Boil gently until they are just soft, but if the beans break up they will ruin the pickle, so bite one and see. The skin should be firm, but the inside soft. Strain the beans and leave them to cool.
Pare a few strips of rind from the orange, peel and crush the garlic, scrape the seeds from the cardamom pods, bruise the ginger and put all of these and the cumin seeds into the pan with the vinegar. Boil for 10 minutes and then remove from the heat.
Allow the vinegar to become quite cold before straining it (reserve the orange rind). Pack the beans carefully into the jars, taking great care that they do not break or mash. Place a few pieces of orange rind amongst them for decorative effect. Pour the cold vinegar over them to cover completely, making sure there are no air bubbles. Seal and label.
Keep for at least 2 weeks before using.
Mixed Summer Pickle
This is a useful recipe with which you can experiment using a variety of different vegetables. Without the chilli it is mild and unassuming, with the chilli it is quite fiery.
MAKES 3 X 375G JARS
450g runner beans
450g small shallots or pickling onions
225g cauliflower
225g cucumber
1 red pepper
1 fresh red chilli (optional)
several bay leaves
100g sea salt
175g white granulated sugar
900ml white malt vinegar
3 x 375g sterilised jam jars
Wash and string the beans and cut them into smallish chunks. Peel the onions. Remove the leaves and stalk from the cauliflower and separate into small, neat florets. Wash the cucumber and cut in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into large dice. Cut the pepper into strips, discarding the seeds, and shred the chilli, taking great care to keep the volatile oils away from your eyes.
Place all the prepared ingredients into a large bowl with the bay leaves, sprinkle with the salt and mix well. Cover and leave to stand in a cool place for 24 hours.
Drain the vegetables and rinse them well under cold running water, drain and pat dry with a clean tea towel. Remove the bay leaves. Pack the vegetables into the jars, leaving a 2.5cm space at the top.
Dissolve the sugar in 225ml of the vinegar over a low heat, cool and add the remaining vinegar. Pop a bay leaf into each jar and pour the vinegar over to cover completely. Tip and tilt a little to remove any air bubbles. Seal tightly and label.
Keep for at least 1 week before using.
BEETROOT
Beetroot is an ancient vegetable, which was very popular with the Romans. When cooked it is sweet and tasty. It is most familiar when pickled, but it also makes an excellent hot vegetable and a traditional soup. Beetroots may be steamed, boiled or baked in the oven in a tightly lidded dish with a small amount of water. Do not boil beetroot too hard or for too long – a large, fresh beet will take about two hours to boil. Try not to cut the green tops or the root off the beetroot or to damage or score the skin prior to cooking or the beet will bleed and lose its colour. After cooking and while the beetroot is still hot, rub your finger and thumb over the skin, which will come away in your hand, taking the tops and tails with it.
Apart from the familiar ruby red beetroot, there is now a golden beetroot and a white one. And, as a bonus, it’s worth remembering all young beetroot have deliciously edible leaves.
Sweet Beetroot Pickle
This makes a nice change from the ubiquitous pickled beetroot in vinegar – the spices add a kick and the sugar brings out the sweet beetroot flavour.
MAKES 3 X 375G JARS
1.1 litres malt vinegar
3cm piece of cinnamon stick
6 cloves
2 blades mace
7 whole allspice
1 small dried chilli
500g soft brown sugar
1kg beetroot
3 x 375g sterilised jam jars
Place the vinegar in a pan with the spices, bring to the boil and boil hard for 2 minutes. Cover and leave to get cold.
Strain and bring to the boil again, then add the sugar, stirring well to make sure it is dissolved, and cook gently until the mixture turns slightly syrupy. Set aside to cool.
Wash, prepare and cook the beetroot in boiling, salted water until tender. Whilst still warm, remove their skins. Leave to get cold then slice or dice them.
Pack the jars with the beetroot and cover with the syrupy vinegar.
Seal and label.
Keep for at least 2 weeks before using.
Beetroot Chutney
A nice earthy chutney, which complements cheeses.
MAKES 4 X 375G JARS
1kg beetroot
350g onions
1 garlic clove
450ml white malt vinegar
350g hard cooking, eating or windfall apples
250g sultanas
1 teaspoon pickling spice
2.5cm piece of dried root ginger
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
1 dessertspoon grated horseradish
350g white granulated sugar
small muslin bag for spices