Several varieties of salts are available:
TABLE SALT
The most widely used type, table salt contains magnesium carbonate to give it free running properties, but I feel that this makes it unsuitable for clear pickles and bottling as it may give a cloudy result.
ROCK SALT
A crystal form of salt, this is the next best thing to block salt, which was traditionally widely used in preserving but is now difficult to obtain.
BAY SALT, SEA SALT OR GROS SEL
These are crystals of sea water formed by evaporation under natural or artificial heat. This is the salt that I find most satisfactory for nearly all preserving.
MALDON SALT
Flat flakes of salt naturally produced in Maldon in Essex. Maldon salt is the very best, but also the most expensive.
FLAVOURED SALT
Ready-made celery salt, garlic salt and onion salt are all popular kitchen condiments and each adds their own distinctive flavour to a wide variety of dishes. But how about making your own herb salts? Take a bunch of fresh mixed herbs, choosing a selection that is suitable for a specific purpose. For example, use the more delicate herbs like chervil and tarragon in creamy sauces; robust herbs like marjoram and sage will go well with meat and fish; whilst strong, aromatic herbs such as oregano and basil are the most suitable for pizzas and cheese dishes. Make sure that the herbs are freshly picked, clean and dry and chop them finely. Either put them into a liquidiser or mix very thoroughly by hand in a bowl or pestle and mortar with three-quarters of a cup of an additive-free salt. Spread the mixture out thinly on a baking tray and leave overnight in the oven at a very low temperature (50–70°C/gas mark ¼), with the door ajar. Store in an airtight container – the herb salt will last indefinitely, but all herbs lose their flavour over time.
VINEGAR
An essential ingredient in a wide variety of pickles, chutneys and relishes, not only to add colour and flavour, but also to prevent the growth of bacteria and so extend the keeping qualities of the finished preserve.
Choosing the right vinegar can be a daunting prospect as the range available at supermarkets is ever-increasing, so here’s a guide to the different types:
MALT VINEGAR
Made from a fermentation of malt, it is available as either brown (coloured with caramel) or white (distilled). This vinegar is the one that most home preservers favour, for it is economical, can be purchased in large quantities from 1–5 litres and is easily available. However, do make sure that the vinegar you purchase is true malt vinegar. Although malt vinegar is harsh and uncompromising, it is quite suitable for more robust pickles, chutneys and sauces where refined flavours would be lost. White malt vinegar is usually used in conjunction with white sugar, where a light, clear or decorative appearance is necessary, for example artichoke pickles. Small green tomatoes, red chillies, shallot or pickling onions, pieces of lemon and so on will show to better advantage if white vinegar is used.
WINE VINEGAR
This was originally made from wine in Orléans, France, where great casks of stored wine suffered from the accidental inclusion of air, thus becoming disastrously soured over a period of time. Eventually, the value of this unpalatable wine was discovered, financial disaster was averted and a more scientific approach was worked out for making Orléans wine vinegar. Many companies now make less expensive wine vinegar by modern methods. Wine vinegar is better than malt vinegar in delicate pickles (if there is such a thing!) but do not be misled into thinking that because it has a more fragrant flavour it must be better for pickles, for this is not necessarily so. Wine vinegar has a different effect on some combinations of fruit, vegetables, spices, etc, and may result in a sour note. One of the best uses it may be put to is in herb vinegars.
CIDER VINEGAR
This is produced in much the same way as wine vinegar. It can vary enormously in quality and price and the flavour can be pleasant and mellow. It is much more useful in nearly all preserves than wine vinegar and is, if you can afford it, a better substitute for malt vinegar, especially if you favour natural foods. If you run out of cider vinegar in an emergency, half white malt vinegar and half dry cider will give you a reasonable result and this is the mixture that I frequently use in preserves that are well cooked. Cider vinegar is excellent for making flower, fruit and herb vinegars, although it does have a clear golden colour that you may consider to be a disadvantage.
BALSAMIC AND SHERRY VINEGARS
Powerful, dark vinegars most usually added in small quantities to sauces, dressings and other dishes. Too strong to use in pickling – and the cost would be prohibitive – however, in conjunction with malt vinegar, they make a well-flavoured pickling vinegar for shallots and mushrooms. A good slug of it will also give a kick to red tomato chutneys and sauces.
SPICED OR PICKLING VINEGARS
Many recipes call for this ready-spiced vinegar and it is handy to make it in large quantities, which can save a lot of hassle later on. Most of them are made from malt vinegar, although occasionally a recipe may specify a spiced wine or cider vinegar. The method of making spiced vinegar is simple: pickling spices are boiled together with vinegar in a stainless steel pan, the pan is removed from the heat, covered and left to get cold. It can then either be strained before using or the whole spices added to the pickle, but not to a chutney. If it is to be kept, it should be poured into a suitable container and sealed with a non-metal lid. The spices added to the vinegar will make it much stronger if you don’t strain it. A wide selection of different spiced vinegars, both mild and fiery, are included throughout this book.
FLAVOURED VINEGARS
There are many recipes for malt vinegars flavoured with garlic, onion, shallot and horseradish; white malt vinegar flavoured with cucumber; wine vinegar with tiny red chillies or green peppercorns added to the bottle; and, of course, the vinegars left over from such goodies as pickled artichokes or onions. All of these are of inestimable value in the kitchen. A few drops added to salad dressings, marinades, stuffing, dips, chutneys and pickles all give your own special, unique touch and, of course, are very economical and will give a zing to the most everyday food.
HERB VINEGARS
Most of these are usually made with white malt, red or white wine or cider vinegar, and there are many recipes in this book for achieving these delightful and subtle concoctions. Use attractive bottles for a never-ending supply of unusual and inexpensive presents, which will give great pleasure to you and the recipient. The most exciting thing about making herb vinegars is the experimenting. Do not just take the recipes that I have given, try mixing and blending your own favourites. How about several coriander seeds with lemon thyme for a spicy vinegar or a few cloves or a blade of mace in a tarragon vinegar? This makes a smashing dressing for chicken salad. The therapeutic effects of wandering around the garden selecting your herbs and then going through the leisurely business of preparing the vinegar and waiting for it to mature are very good for the soul as well as the palate.
Although there are more specific recipes, there is a fairly standard method of making herb vinegars. Use only small quantities of herbs to start with and try experimenting with your favourites, adding a few whole spices if the mood takes you. If it is difficult to obtain fresh herbs, then dried herbs will still make a very palatable vinegar. Generally speaking, half the weight of dried herbs to fresh is sufficient, but remember when using dried herbs to strain the vinegar through a muslin cloth before decanting otherwise it will be ‘bitty’. Make sure that you pick your herbs before they flower and early in