The Building Blocks to Any Plan
Depending on your experience around the waterfront with docks, you may already be familiar with the idea of building wooden docks in sections versus “stick building” them in place, plank by plank. Except for the chapter that shows you how to build a permanent dock on heavy driven pilings, the DIY methods in this book feature the use of sections throughout. Thinking about your finished dock being comprised of sections—like building blocks—will facilitate the planning, construction, and installation of any DIY wooden dock. Having moved plenty of docks myself, often with no more than one other person to help, I understand the importance of sectionalizing the dock into manageable segments. This is never truer than for folks in the north where docks, subject to winter ice damage, must be removed in the fall and then re-installed in the spring.
Designed, built, and installed in sections, think of each one as the basic building block to your plan.
For others, where docks may be left in place through the winter, they will appreciate how building in sections allows most of the carpentry work to be done over safe, dry land or preferably in a comfortable shop environment with a flat floor that has all the tools handy. Whether you’re in the north or south, you’ll appreciate the techniques found in this chapter to lessen your load while erecting your dock and maintaining a sturdy end-result that will provide years of service.
In this chapter, you’ll see a couple ways you can choose from to build your dock sections. For each choice, I’ll also include plans to build common sizes that can be mixed and matched to create your desired footprint. You can apply the dock section plans shown here to most of the leg support methods featured in this book. The section designs, as shown in this chapter, may be used for fixed or floating docks. If you will be building a floating dock, be sure to visit Dock Sections That Float (here) for special details you’ll want to learn about.
Keep it Manageable—I won’t deny that a dock with some weight to it is a good thing. You’ll appreciate weight when the dock gets glanced by the boat. However, keeping your dock to the scale of a DIY project that doesn’t demand lots of hands on deck or heavy equipment to erect requires your cognizance to the heft of your finished product and your safe capacity to handle it. Therefore, it is important to avoid overbuilding, ending up with sections that are too heavy for maneuvering. For most DIYers, I recommend building a dock that you’ll look forward to assembling, not something to dread. Even if you expect plenty of help from friends and family or you plan to hire help to install it for you, make it something they would want to help with. Don’t build the dock that no one wants any part of.
Framing Material—Lumber for a wooden dock section merely calls for framing and decking. Keeping within the scale that is ideal for a DIYer who wants the sections to be lightweight and manageable, you can go as light as a nominal 2x6 (38 by 140 millimeters) stringer size for framing on most residential applications. Compare that to your knowledge of deck building where usually a minimum of 2x8 (38 by 184 millimeters) is recommended, and you might think I’m off my rocker for going that light. Your application could indeed demand larger stringers. For example, you might be carting commercial fishing gear, supporting vehicular traffic, or gathering the Dolphins’ line-backers on it for a group photo. In that case, put the plans on steroids by increasing the stringer size. Just bear in mind, more time and strategy for maneuvering heavier sections will be needed, but it can be done. However, for most residential applications, if your loads are under 40 pounds per square feet, (190 N/m2), the modest stringer size 2x6 (38 by 140 millimeters)—combined with keeping the section size to a modest limit—will yield a more than sufficiently sturdy structure whereby a team of two can comfortably manage. In warmer climates where winter ice is not a concern and doesn’t require docks to be annually removed, I would consider stepping up the stringer to a nominal 2x8 (38 by 184 millimeters), given that the sections will be handled only one time.
Pressure-treated (PT) yellow pine and Douglas fir is a favorite framing material for many deck and dock builders. While known for its resistance to rot and infestation from insects, PT is readily available at a reasonable cost. For many years, the PT industry infused arsenic as a preservative into wood, until enough concern was raised over the proper disposal of PT waste to influence change. The industry voluntarily switched to an arsenic- free treatment, resulting in a ban on arsenic-treated wood across the U.S., Canada, and Europe. News of the ban has left some consumers unclear as to the current legal status and availability of PT. Though it is on the market without the arsenic and approved by the EPA, NRC, and EU, check with your local code office to make sure its use for docks is compliant. A couple alternatives to PT that have a natural resistance to rot are cedar and redwood. These materials may cost more than PT, but they will be considerably lighter, making less work during the installation. A few other choices for framing include untreated Douglas fir, hemlock, and spruce.
Decking Material—The decking on your dock sections is the most visible feature and has the largest surface area of all the material going into the project. You’ll be asking a lot from the decking you choose as it gets full sun, rain, and, of course, traffic from people, pets, and waterfowl. Regardless, if every other feature of the dock is looking great but the decking is not, then the dock, overall, looks in poor condition. In other words, a dock’s condition is often judged by its deck’s appearance. When shopping for what fits your vision, it’s important to understand the nature of all the deck choices available, how they will look and feel over time, and how much care they will require. The standard deck board readily available is a nominal 1x6 (19 by 140 millimeters), and can be found at almost any lumberyard. PT decking remains a popular choice for its expected longevity, low cost, and availability while cedar, whether it be Western red or Eastern white, is also available and much lighter than PT decking. Plenty of synthetic deck boards can be found today at your local home center or lumberyard, such as PVC
and composite. These will add considerable weight over the others I’ve mentioned thus far, but they may be your answer to reduced maintenance. For a low-maintenance option that is lighter, you may consider pre-molded deck panels, made specially for dock sections, that simply screw down to the frame. These, being a specialty item, if not found at your local lumberyard, can be ordered online.
Fasteners—When assembling the frame, I prefer using a nailing gun that shoots 3-inch (9-gauge) box nails. They should be ring-shanked or screw- like, and available with a glue coating that cements them into the wood upon entry. Try backing one of these out with a claw—you’ll likely break the head off before it gives. If you prefer screws over nails, and you have a cordless impact wrench, use a 4-inch (100-millimeter) coated structural screw with a hex- or star-driven head. Though more expensive than nails, they will bind a butt joint together with a bite like no other.
When applying deck boards, such as PT or cedar to the frame, the same 3-inch (9 gauge) box nails that are good for the frame will also work on the decking. Prevent splitting at the end of a board by blunting the nail, or better yet pre-drilling, and drive with a hammer. If you prefer screws over nails, use a coated 3-inch (9 gauge) deck screw. Don’t mistake galvanized drywall screws for deck screws. For synthetic decking, such as PVC and composite, follow the manufacturer’s specifications for screws and method of installing so as not to nullify their warranty.
Stainless