If you’re feeling anxious about the thoughts of a permit application, don’t be discouraged too quickly. Quite often, the requirements are simple and can be handled entirely through your local government council. If there are not instructions, an official should be able to guide you with completing the application. If required, they should direct you to any other agency or organization for additional permits. For extra environmentally sensitive areas or urban areas, I would expect more than one permit, each from a different agency, would be required.
Once you’ve established that one or more permits are required, you’ll want to become familiar with the specific rules for constructing the dock. Some of the rules originate to ensure the dock is safe for people, such as specifying dimensional lumber sizes to use, the distance between supports, where railing is required, marking for visibility at night, or specifics that prevent it from becoming a navigational hazard. Your code may require pilings that are heavier than practical for a DIYer to install. In that case, you’ll look for a marine contractor to do that part. In many cases, ironically, I’ve seen no rules that reflect a concern for the safety of people, but only the impact on the environment. Environmental rules control things like the size of the dock, its “footprint,” “shading” (which is the blockage of light that can lead to erosion and adversely affect the ecosystem), visual pollution, specific materials that could cause harm to the environment, and anchoring standards to prevent its destruction that could result in littering debris. The plans, materials, and methods of construction that are provided in this book may or may not be permitted in the jurisdiction where your project is going to be built. The rules you’ll need to comply with in building your dock will dictate what methods and designs you’ll be able to choose. My advice is to apply what you can from this book that does meet compliance with your local code. In some cases, a simple alteration of dimensions within the structure or its overall size may be all that is needed. Once you know the rules and what will be allowed, bring that knowledge together with what it is you want to build. Adjust your plan until it complies so that you can arrive at the specific dock you want the permit(s) for.
When filling out the application(s), include specifically what it asks for. If it wants any drawings attached with dimensions or photos of the site, be sure to meet the criteria of the instructions. If it doesn’t say it has to be a professional drawing, then provide a simple sketch. Do not give more drawings and photos or details than what it asks for. If it doesn’t ask for drawings and photographs, don’t provide them.
Too much information can cause confusion for the official who reviews it, resulting in questions and misunderstandings that will stall the approval. For example, accessories such as a ladder or bench should go on the drawing and labeled if asked. Otherwise, don’t show them. Also, stick to the language that the application uses. When writing a description, for example, avoid referring to the dock as a “deck.” Though some portion of it may seem like it should be called a “deck,” it is a dock you’re applying for. Ridiculous as it sounds, the reaction from the official could be, “We permit docks over the water, not decks.” Based on your findings, after your inquiry as to what’s required, you may be pleasantly surprised at how simple it is. If that isn’t the case and there is more red tape than what you are willing to get wrapped up in, then I would consider hiring an engineering firm experienced with the process. They know their way around the red tape and are efficient at getting the approval you need.
If your project involves the replacement of an old dock that has exceeded its life expectancy, there may be characteristics of it that wouldn’t be allowed under the modern code. An example of this could be its size if today’s code for a new dock would allow something smaller than what was there. Depending on the ordinance or zoning, there may be a “grandfather clause” that would enable you to replace it as it was originally built. Be sure to save all evidence of whatever the characteristic is that you want to transfer to the new dock. Maybe you should have the official come out to inspect it. Take plenty of pictures and retrieve any old photos you have of the old dock structures for your files should you wish at any time to make a case for restoring or copying desirable characteristics from the dock you’re replacing.
Finally, when making your inquiry to all agencies that you’ll require a permit from, find out what the time frame is before you get an answer. Depending on the number of agencies involved, it could be a day or two. It could be a month or even more sometimes. I’ve known cases that took up to two years. Hopefully that’s not your situation. Anticipating that a wait is possible, submit your applications early enough so that your approvals come before it is time to build. Once the permit is in your hand, you’ll rest easier than your neighbor who didn’t get one.
CHAPTER 2:
FASTENATION
While in high school, I worked part time at a hardware store, and ever since, believed that all young people should experience that, even for a short time. You get to learn about all the things that will come in handy when you own a home later in life. Of all the departments in that store, none were more important than fasteners. Becoming familiar with fasteners is only the beginning. It takes time and experience to apply that familiarity and years of observation to prove what the best fastener is for the job. Since fasteners are quintessential for so many dock-related projects, the topic deserves its placement near the front of this book. The purpose of this chapter is to give you my fastener experience with dock building, conveyed to you firsthand so that you may avoid common mistakes and get an edge that will facilitate your project and leave you with the desired result.
Since our structure is in an aquatic environment which happens to be corrosive, let’s consider alloys and coatings for a moment. The usual shiny plain steel, electro-galvanized fasteners you find at the hardware store will begin to rust in a short time, especially around salt water. For the time it takes to build your project, it is worth spending extra money for better corrosion resistance so you’re not re-doing it in a few years. Around fresh water, electro-galvanized screws with a resin coating, offered in a choice of colors, perform well on decking and framing. Buying coated screws can be a “pig in a poke,” not knowing the quality of the coating. To qualify what you’re buying, begin with the specifications offered on the product’s label. It should boldly say that it is suitable for marine environments, otherwise, keep shopping. If your project will be exposed to salt water, make sure the product states specifically that it has been tested for salt water. If you can correspond with the company, ask how rigorous their testing is. An adequate test by my standards would be a continuous six month to a year period. If rapid corrosion will occur in a salt environment, they would see early stages of it within that time. Also make sure that the manufacturer recommends their product for the type of chemically treated lumber you may be using.
The alternative to resin-coated screws would be hot-dip galvanized nails or stainless nails and screws. To reduce damage by electrolysis in salt water, I would go with grade 316 stainless if your budget will allow it. I realize that it could be cost prohibitive, especially when you look at upgrading bolts to stainless. In that case, for salt water, I would attach zinc bars, as used on marine outdrives, under the dock frame to retard corrosion on hot-dip galvanized