The Southern Upland Way. Alan Castle

clear conditions includes the Irish coastline as far south as the Mourne Mountains. The path at this point is protected from the steep drop down to the cliffs below by a sturdy wooden fence. Walk to the left of the British Telecom Radio Station, still on the good coastal path above the cliffs. When Portpatrick Golf Course comes into view, walk up a short flight of wooden steps then turn left along an asphalted drive alongside the golf course before soon leaving the hard surface for the continuing coastal path. The route descends over rocks to reach a sandy and shingle beach. Cross this to turn left around the next peninsula headland, soon dropping again to cross a wooden footbridge. Pass around the shoreline to pick up the path again as it passes behind two tall rock stacks, and so up steep rocky, chain-assisted steps, back onto the grassy coastal path, which is met at a stile. An excellent section follows where it is possible to stride out on green springy turf. Soon Killantringan Lighthouse (private) at Black Head will come into view.

      Killantringan Lighthouse, which was built in 1900, marks the point where the SUW, having followed the coast northwards from Portpatrick for about 3.5km, leaves the sea to start its long journey to the east coast. The lighthouse apparently did not do its job too well; in 1982 a cargo ship ran aground on the nearby rocks spilling toxic waste into the sea and polluting the nearby coast. Note that the lighthouse is private property and the occupants should not be disturbed.

      Killantringan Lighthouse

      Head to the right of the lighthouse to join its tarmac access track at a SUW fingerpost that will direct you to the right and inland. At last you are on your long journey to the east coast! As you turn inland be sure to enjoy the grand view of Knock Bay and the coastal cliffs to the north.

      Knock Bay from Killantringan Lighthouse (photo: Alan Castle)

      The narrow asphalted lane climbs gradually eastwards away from the coast, passing first Killantringan Farmhouse and then Killantringan Cottage, after which it levels and continues to a main road, the B738. Go left on this usually fairly quiet road then after about 400m turn right onto a narrow lane that rises gently over a rounded green hill. Remain on this lane as it bends first to the left and then to the right to pass to the right of large Knockniemoak House. About 100m later, turn sharply right off this lane at a SUW fingerpost onto a gravel track by a pair of houses (Three Acres). Follow this track to the left of another solitary house and garage. Here the main track bends right, but keep ahead into a grassy one (a box formerly holding free SUW leaflets will be passed on your left). Go through a combination gate (a field gate with a smaller walkers’ gate set into it) to enter pasture and climb to a SUW marker post at the top of a grassy hill. From this point, Mulloch Hill at 156m (512ft), the tip of the steep-sided volcanic island of Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde to the north can just be seen on a clear day.

      THE RHINS

      The first stage of the SUW involves a crossing of the Rhins peninsula, properly known as the Rhins of Galloway. It has a very distinctive shape, an elongated hammerhead, a long and fairly narrow wedge of pastoral green countryside, which is only prevented from being an island by the low-lying isthmus between Loch Ryan to the north and Luce Bay to the south. The word ‘Rhins’ comes from the Old Irish word ‘Rind’ meaning a headland.

      Bear right at the hilltop, down to a kissing gate onto the rushes and heather of Broad Moor. Follow a path eastward, now with a loch (Knockquhassen Reservoir) over to your left. This occasionally swampy path passes this loch, eventually emerging at a track. Turn right onto this track, which soon becomes a narrow metalled lane. Follow this gently downhill to cross Piltanton Burn at Greenfield Farm. The lane then bears left and climbs, later veering right to reach a minor road between Stranraer and Portpatrick. Turn left along this road, then after 250m, opposite Cottfield House, turn right onto a lane (there is a good view down to Stranraer and its sea loch, Loch Ryan, from here). The narrow lane runs dead straight for a kilometre before turning left. After about 100m, where the road bends sharply to the right, walk ahead on a grassy path between hedge and fence. This descends to a minor road where you should turn right (SUW fingerpost) uphill. You would turn left here if you wanted to divert into Stranraer.