Lead mining ruins, Wanlockhead (Stage 7)
It is advisable to take along additional maps to those provided in this guidebook (see the section on Maps, above) and a compass should most definitely be carried – and of course, you need to know how to use it. A GPS device is not an essential item of equipment, but some may find it a comfort to carry one, and such a device would certainly be useful in mist, particularly if high level alternatives or hill walks off the SUW are anticipated. A GPS would be useful if the route of the SUW is completely lost, in order to determine one’s position, but you should never rely on one of these instruments entirely; a map and compass are the fundamentals.
There have been a fair number of route changes over the years from the original line of the SUW. On the whole these route realignments, which are generally well waymarked, represent a considerable improvement to the Way, and for this the SUW rangers are to be congratulated. Two of the best examples are the new route over Craig Airie Fell (Stage 3) and the riverside on leaving Bargrennan (Stage 4); but the prize is the new high-level line over Capel Fell (Stage 9).
SUW INFORMATION BOARDS
At regular intervals along the length of the SUW the Rangers have erected very informative boards detailing various aspects of the Way and the surrounding countryside, enclosed within a tiny rain-proof shelter. Each board has specific information on the area in which it is situated. The locations of the many SUW information boards are given in the various route sections of the Trail Guide.
During 2005, as part of the celebrations of the 21st Anniversary of the SUW (opened in April 1984), 13 artist-made boxes called ‘kists’ were hidden at locations along the SUW, one on each of the (then) 13 stages. Inside each box is a hoard of special ‘waymerks’, small lead or copper tokens marked with tiny, minted images (a Merk was a Scots coin valued at 13s 8d). These represent some aspect of the archaeology, history or wildlife of the area of the hiding place. The Waymerks project has proved popular with people walking the Way in search of these special mementoes.
Access in Scotland
The Land Reform (Scotland) Act became law in 2005. This gives considerable statutory rights of access to virtually all open ground, including for wild camping: one of the most enlightened acts of its type in all Europe. But never forget that these rights of access come with important responsibilities. It is a good idea, if unfamiliar with walking in Scotland, to acquaint yourself with the access code by referring to the free leaflet entitled, ‘Scottish Outdoor Access Code – Know the Code before you go’, which is available from Tourist Information Centres in Scotland or online at www.outdooraccess-scotland.com.
Blackhouse (Stage 10) (photo: Alan Castle)
Ticks
Tick populations appear to be on the increase in the upland areas of Britain. Although the author encountered none on his last coast-to-coast crossing, there have been warnings from some other SUW walkers. The usual hosts of the tick are sheep and deer, but care should be exercised to avoid getting bitten yourself, as ticks are carriers of Lyme Disease, a serious condition. It should not be cause for great concern, nor spoil your walk, but do be aware of the problem; really only common sense is required.
Long trousers rather than shorts are advisable as ticks are most commonly picked up from vegetation along the route. Waterproof trousers or over-trousers are particularly recommended, as soaking wet and tall grasses and other dense vegetation will probably be frequently encountered. Even if it is not raining at the time, overgrown vegetation can remain very wet for a long time after a downpour and the extra leg protection will also help to avoid ticks.
Check the skin frequently for ticks and if found remove them at once, taking care not to leave the mouthparts still attached (a special small tool can be purchased for this purpose).
Completion certificates and SUW badges
Attractive high quality completion certificates are available free of charge to all those who have walked the entire route of the SUW, whether in a single crossing, or as a series of shorter walks. They make excellent mementoes of your achievement and are nice souvenirs of your walking holiday. They are available from the Countryside Ranger Services of either Dumfries & Galloway or the Scottish Borders or via the SUW website (see Appendix D). Certificates for those who have walked only part of the way are also available.
Cloth SUW badges are also usually available, for a small price, at various local outlets.
A high-level alternative coast-to-coast route
Suitably experienced hill walkers and backpackers may wish to devise their own high level coast-to-coast route across the Southern Uplands. It is possible to plan and execute several such routes of various levels of difficulty. From west to east the main ranges to consider crossing are the Galloway Hills, Carsphairn Hills, Lowther Hills, Moffat Hills, Manor or Tweedsmuir Hills, the Moorfoots and the Lammermuir Hills. Such an adventure would be a considerable undertaking, far in excess of that of walking the SUW. The SUW provides access to most of these ranges and could form the principal means of linking up the high level sections. Information gleaned from this guidebook as well as in the Cicerone-published guide to the Southern Uplands (see Appendix C) should prove helpful to those planning their own routes across these hills. It is hoped that those who have not previously walked in the Southern Uplands will develop a love of this area during their SUW trek and will want to return again and again, to explore the area more fully, walk more of the hill ranges and even attempt a bespoke coast-to-coast crossing of this wonderful region. Knowledge and experience of the area gained whilst on the SUW will well equip the walker for such future visits and ventures.
THE E2
The SUW forms a significant part of the E2, which is one of several ultra-long-distance walking trails through Europe. The E2 is 2910 miles (4850km) in length and runs from Nice in southern France to Galway in Ireland. From Nice it travels north through the Alps, Jura, Vosges, Alsace-Lorraine, Luxembourg, Belgium and Holland. On the British side of the Channel there are two alternative routes through England, one from Dover and one from Harwich. These join at Kirk Yetholm, the northern terminus of the Pennine Way. In Scotland the E2 follows St Cuthbert’s Way to Melrose where it picks up the SUW Way, which it follows all the way west to Stranraer. A ferry then leads to Ireland for the last stages of this mammoth walk, which ends at the Atlantic on the Galway coast. As a walk of a lifetime, the E2 through Europe can be thoroughly recommended as it passes through a tremendous variety of landscapes and cultures, from the polders of Holland to the high Alps of France, from the fen country of East Anglia to the Southern Uplands of Scotland. Signs for the E2 will be seen in the Borders attached to SUW signposts. Alan Castle, author of the original edition of this book, is one of very few to have walked the E2 in its entirety.
Using this guide
On Lowther Hill above Wanlockhead (Stage 7)
The SUW has been divided into 14 stages in this guidebook. (This replaces the earlier scheme of 13 stages, two of them over 25 miles.) Each stage is between 15 and 30km (9–19 miles). Most of them end at accommodation points, usually with a shop as well; the others end at road crossings usable for pick-up and drop-off services.
Each stage begins with a ‘summary table’ that shows at a glance the total distance for the stage (plus, in brackets, the additional distance that may be needed to or from accommodation points at the start or end of the stage). The summary that follows provides an overview of the stage and could be read the evening before the section is undertaken to give a feel for the nature of the forthcoming walk. Any possible problems and alternatives are discussed here. (For more detail on the distances between the intermediate points of each stage, please refer to the Itinerary planner (Appendix A).)
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