Local specialities in Lyon include mâchons, morning snacks made from charcuterie accompanied by Beaujolais red wine and formerly eaten by silk workers. Other dishes include rosette de Lyon (cured pork sausage served in chunky slices), salade lyonnaise (lettuce, bacon and poached egg), cervelle de canut (cheese spread made with herbs, shallots, olive oil and vinegar), pommes de terre lyonnaise (potatoes sautéed with onions and parsley) and quenelles de brochet (creamed pike in an egg-based mousse).
Provençale cooking in southern France makes use of local herbs, olives, olive oil and vegetables including tomatoes, peppers, aubergines and garlic. A traditional provençale dish is ratatouille, a vegetable stew of tomatoes, peppers, onions, aubergines and courgettes. Daube Provençale is beef and vegetables stewed in red wine. In the Camargue, local black bulls are sometimes used for the meat in daube. Mediterranean fish are widely used, a typical dish being bouillabaisse fish stew with tomatoes, onions and herbs. Rice is grown in the Camargue; the most northerly place in Europe it can be cultivated.
What to drink
The Rhone flows through some of the greatest wine producing regions of both Switzerland and France. In Switzerland the vineyards of Valais (Stage 3), Chablais (Stage 4) and Lavaux (Stage 5), both in Vaud, and La Côte (Stage 6) near Geneva produce mostly Fendant dry white wine from chasselas grapes and Dôle soft red wine from pinot noir and gamay grapes. Swiss wine is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets as the Swiss consume almost all the production and export very little. Wine by the glass in restaurants is usually priced by the decilitre (1dl = 100ml) and is served in 1dl, 2dl or 5dl carafes. The nearest equivalent to a UK 175ml standard glass is 2dl.
Local wine bottles outside a wine merchant in l’Hermitage (Stage 13)
The French regard themselves as the world’s premier quality wine producing nation and some of the highest quality wines are made in the Rhone valley, particularly at l’Hermitage (Stage 13) and Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Stage 18) both producing full-bodied red wine. Other areas producing AC (appellation contrôlée) quality wines include Seyssel dry white and sparkling wine in Savoy (Stage 7), Côte Rôtie red wine and Condrieu white wine from Viognier grapes (Stage 12) and Tavel and Lirac rosé wine (Stage 19). The greatest quantity of wine, however, comes from 150 AC communes spread throughout the lower valley from Vienne to Avignon (Stages 12–18) known collectively as the Côtes du Rhône and from an even greater number of vineyards in Gard (Stages 18–19) producing VDQS and Vin de Pays wine (less rigorous quality standards, but nevertheless very drinkable and considerably cheaper) mostly from Carignan and Grenache grapes. Listel, the largest producer in France, produces high quality wines from vineyards on the sands of the Petit Camargue, fertilised by bringing mountain sheep down from the hills to graze the vineyards in winter. They are particularly known for Gris de Gris, white wine made from red grape varieties.
Although western Switzerland and southern France are predominantly wine drinking areas, beer consumption is increasing. Main varieties are Blonde (light coloured lager) and Blanche (cloudy slightly sweet tasting beer made from wheat). Pan-European breweries, such as Kronenbourg and Heineken, produce most of the beer, however, there are a growing number of brasserie artisanal local breweries brewing distinct local beers.
All the usual soft drinks (colas, lemonade, fruit juices, mineral waters) are widely available. Local specialities include Rivella, a Swiss drink sweetened with lactose (milk sugars) and available in a number of varieties. The spring from which Evian water (one of the world’s biggest mineral water brands) is sourced is passed on Stage 5A.
Amenities and services
Grocery shops
All cities, towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often supermarkets, and most have pharmacies. Even small villages have boulangeries (bakers), which open early and produce fresh bread throughout the day. Shop opening hours vary and in southern France many shops close in the afternoon between 1.00pm and 4.00pm.
Cycle shops
The route is well provided with cycle shops, most with repair facilities. Locations are listed in the stage descriptions, although this is not exhaustive. Many cycle shops will adjust brakes and gears, or lubricate your chain, while you wait, often not seeking reimbursement for minor repairs. Touring cyclists should not abuse this generosity and always offer to pay, even if this is refused.
Currency and banks
France switched from the French franc to the euro in 2002. In Switzerland the Swiss franc (CHF) is used. This is a very strong currency, which has appreciated noticeably against the euro in recent years making prices in Switzerland relatively high. In places near the Franco/Swiss border it is usually considerably cheaper to eat, drink and sleep in France rather than Switzerland Almost every town has a bank and most have ATM machines, which enable you to make transactions in English. Contact your bank to activate your bankcard for use in Europe.
Telephone and internet
The whole route has mobile phone (German; handy) coverage. Contact your network provider to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use with the most economic price package. International dialling codes from UK (+44) are:
+41 Switzerland
+33 France
Most hotels, guest houses and hostels make internet access available to guests, usually free but sometimes for a small fee.
Electricity
Voltage is 220v, 50HzAC. Plugs are standard European two-pin round, although a three-pin version (with centre earth pin) is common in Switzerland.
What to take
Clothing and personal items
Even though the route is predominantly downhill, weight should be kept to a minimum. You will need clothes for cycling (shoes, socks, shorts/trousers, shirt, fleece, waterproofs) and clothes for evenings and days-off. The best maxim is two of each, ‘one to wear, one to wash’. Time of year makes a difference as you need more and warmer clothing in April/May and September/October. All of this clothing should be capable of washing en route, and a small tube or bottle of travel wash is useful. A sun-hat and sun glasses are essential, while gloves and a woolly hat are advisable except in high summer.
In addition to your usual toiletries you will need sun cream and lip salve. You should take a simple first-aid kit. If staying in hostels you will need a towel and torch (your cycle light should suffice).
Cycle equipment
Everything you take needs to be carried on your cycle. If overnighting in accommodation, a pair of rear panniers should be sufficient to carry all your clothing and equipment, but if camping, you may also need front panniers. Panniers should be 100 percent watertight. If in doubt, pack everything inside a strong polythene lining bag. Rubble bags, obtainable from builders’ merchants, are ideal for this purpose. A bar-bag is a useful way of carrying items you need to access quickly such as maps, sunglasses, camera, spare tubes, puncture-kit and tools. A transparent map case attached to the top of your bar-bag is an ideal way of displaying maps and guidebook.
Your cycle should be fitted with mudguards and bell, and be capable of carrying water bottles, pump and lights. Many cyclists fit an odometer to measure distances. A basic tool-kit should consist of puncture repair kit, spanners, Allen keys, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, spoke key and chain repair tool. The only essential spares are two spare tubes. On a long cycle ride, sometimes on dusty tracks, your chain will need regular lubrication and you should either carry a can of spray-lube or make regular visits to cycle shops. A good strong lock is advisable.
Safety and emergencies
Weather
The first half of the route is in the continental climate zone, typified by warm dry summers interspersed with short periods of heavy rain and cold winters. Below Lyon the route enters the Mediterranean zone with