Wildlife
While chamois and ibex can be found in the mountains near the source and a number of small mammals (including rabbits, hares, red squirrels, voles, water rats and weasels) may be seen scuttling across the track and deer glimpsed in forests, this is not a route for seeing wild animals. However, there are a few places where old bends of the river, abandoned since navigational improvements have made them redundant, have been turned into nature reserves. Of particular note is Printegarde nature reserve (Stage 15), home to many varieties of birds, animals and insects including black kites, storks, bee-eaters, European beaver and 40 varieties of dragonfly.
In the Camargue (Stage 20), two species of semi-feral animal can be found – black cattle and white horses. These animals are privately owned and tended by local gardians (cowboys) but allowed to roam on the salt flats and marshes. The bulls are used to provide animals for local bull fights and for meat, while the horses are used as mounts for the gardians and for equestrian sports such as dressage and three-day-eventing.
Gardians (cowboys) from the Camargue gather in Arles for the bull running (Stage 19)
There is a wide range of interesting birdlife. White swans, geese and many varieties of ducks inhabit the river and its banks. Cruising above, raptors, particularly buzzards and kites, are frequently seen hunting small mammals, while flamingos can be found in the Camargue. Birds that live by fishing include cormorants, noticeable when perched on rocks with their wings spread out to dry, and grey herons, which can be seen standing in shallow water waiting to strike or stalking purposefully along the banks.
Preparation
When to go
With the exception of the first 14km of Stage 1 from the source beside the Furkapass to Oberwald, the route is generally cycleable from April to October. The Furkapass is blocked by snow in winter and is usually closed from November until May, exact dates varying from year to year depending upon snow levels. Indeed, snow can fall at any time of year, but is rare in July and August. The Postbus service over the pass, which can be used to reach the start of the route, runs only between mid-June and mid-October. As a result, unless you plan to cycle up to the source from Oberwald or Realp, the full ride can only be completed during summer and early autumn.
How long will it take?
The main route has been broken into 20 stages averaging 45km per stage. A fit cyclist, cycling an average of 75km per day should be able to complete the route in 12 days. A schedule for this timescale appears in Appendix C. Travelling at a gentler pace of 60km per day and allowing time for sightseeing, cycling the Rhone to the Mediterranean would take a fortnight. There are many places to stay all along the route making it is easy to tailor daily distances to your requirements.
What kind of cycle is suitable?
Most of the route is on asphalt cycle tracks or alongside quiet country roads. There are some stretches with gravel surfaces, particularly in Switzerland, but these are invariably well graded and pose few problems for touring cycles. However, cycling the exact route described in this guide is not recommended for narrow tyred racing cycles. There are on-road alternatives which can be used to by-pass the rougher sections. The most suitable type of cycle is either a touring cycle or a hybrid (a lightweight but strong cross between a touring cycle and a mountain bike with at least 21 gears). There is no advantage in using a mountain bike. Front suspension is beneficial as it absorbs much of the vibration. Straight handlebars, with bar-ends enabling you to vary your position regularly, are recommended. Make sure your cycle is serviced and lubricated before you start, particularly the brakes, gears and chain.
As important as the cycle is your choice of tyres. Slick road tyres are not suitable and knobbly mountain bike tyres not necessary. What you need is something in-between with good tread and a slightly wider profile than you would use for everyday cycling at home. To reduce the chance of punctures, choose tyres with puncture resistant armouring, such as a Kevlar™ band.
A fully equipped cycle at Furka Belvédère (Stage 1)
Getting there and back
By rail
The start of the route near the summit of the Furkapass is not directly accessible by train. However, there are stations at Realp (east of the pass) and Oberwald (to the west) that are served by hourly year-round MGB (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn) narrow gauge trains between Andermatt and Brig. During the peak summer season (mid-June to mid-October) there is a Postbus service over the pass with two departures daily from Andermatt and three from Oberwald. These buses carry a limited number of cycles with reservations required before 4.00pm the previous day (PostAuto Schweiz, Region Bern/Zentralalpen; +41 58 448 20 08; www.postauto.ch/bern). You can cycle up the pass, but this is a steep 900m climb on a main road from either Realp or Oberwald!
Postbus services from Andermatt to Furka Belvédère carry up to six cycles (Stage 1)
Andermatt can be reached by hourly SBB (Swiss railways) services from Basle or Zürich, changing at Göschenen. Oberwald is accessed by hourly SBB services from Geneva and Lausanne, changing at Brig. Most trains on both routes (except CIS and Glacier Express) have cycle space. Swiss trains do not require seat reservations, although cycle reservation is mandatory (for a fee of CHF5) on ICN intercity trains, which operate about 50 per cent of the services between Basle or Zürich and Göschenen. In Switzerland a ticket is required for your cycle. This costs CHF15 and covers all journeys within a day. Tickets can be purchased and reservations made at www.sbb.ch.
If travelling from the UK, you can take your cycle on Eurostar from London St Pancras (not Ebbsfleet nor Ashford) to Paris (Gare du Nord) or Brussels (Midi). Trains between London and Paris run hourly throughout the day, taking under three hours. Cycles booked in advance travel in dedicated cycle spaces in the baggage compartment of the same train as you. Bookings, which cost £30 single, can be made through Eurostar baggage (0844 822 5822). Cycles must be checked in at St Pancras Eurostar luggage office (beside the bus drop-off point) at least 40mins before departure. There is no requirement to package or dismantle your cycle. There is more information at www.eurostar.com.
CROSSING PARIS
After arrival in Paris you need to cycle from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon following a series of grand boulevards (wide avenues) on an almost straight 4km route.
Go ahead opposite the main entrance to Gare du Nord along Boulevard de Denain, a one-way street with contra-flow permitted for cyclists. At the end turn L into Boulevard de Magenta and follow this to reach Place de la Republique. Continue round this square and leave on the opposite side by Boulevard du Temple, becoming Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire then Boulevard Beaumarchais, to reach Place de la Bastille. Bear L (past a memorial column to 1830 revolution) and R (passing Opera Bastille L) into Rue de Lyon to reach Gare de Lyon station.
Franco Swiss Lyria TGV high-speed trains, which run from Paris (Gare de Lyon) to Basle and on to Zürich, have four cycle spaces per train, with mandatory reservation (€10). There are six direct trains per day, which take 3hrs. Alternatively there are seven Lyria trains daily between Paris and Geneva (3hrs) and four to Lausanne (3hrs 40mins). Details can be found on SNCF (French Railways) website, http://uk.voyages-sncf.com.
If travelling from Brussels to Basle you face the problem that high-speed Thalys trains between Brussels and Köln and ICE intercity express trains in Germany do not carry cycles. However, conventional EuroCity services with cycle space run three times daily directly to Basle via Luxembourg and