In a Group or Alone?
The walker faces another important decision – whether to undertake the JMT as a member of a small group, with one other friend or spouse, or to go alone. There are benefits and disadvantages of either approach. Some authors and authorities strongly disapprove of walking alone, particularly in the wild and lonely areas of the world. Such disapproval arises mainly from the risk of accidents that could leave the solitary traveller unable to physically escape from the wilderness area or to summon assistance from others.
Entering a wilderness area, particularly a mountain environment, always entails a certain amount of risk, which will be greater if the individual travels alone. But, although the John Muir Trail passes through the heart of one of the largest wilderness areas in the United States, the individual will often encounter others along the trail, particularly during the main summer hiking season. The JMT hiker is merely following a narrow thread through the wilderness, rather than disappearing into the vast expanse all around him.
So if the lone walker suffers an accident it is quite likely that he or she will be found within a few hours, providing that the accident occurs along the route of the JMT. In this respect walking the JMT alone in the main holiday season is less hazardous than walking an unmarked route across the Scottish Highlands, for example. So lone walkers, whether from choice or from circumstance, shouldn’t be deterred from attempting the JMT.
Hiking the Trail as part of a group has several advantages. Safety in numbers is one obvious one, as is companionship, but another significant benefit is load sharing. The solitary walker must carry all his equipment, whereas one stove, one tent, one guidebook, one map, one first-aid kit, etc, will suffice for two or three people. Hence the weight to be carried per person should be less when travelling in a group. Job sharing is another advantage of a group, from shopping and packaging of food prior to the trek to division of labour in camp, and so on.
The disadvantage of travelling with a group is that minor differences in personalities and preferences can be exacerbated by living a physically demanding, unfamiliar and sometimes uncomfortable lifestyle in close proximity to one another, with little time to retreat into one’s own ‘space’. One person may naturally walk faster than the others and so get tired and exasperated at constantly having to wait for the rest of the group. Some may like to stop frequently for botanising or taking photographs, whilst others prefer to push on. All such differences can be magnified during the sometimes stressful existence of life on the Trail and result in disagreements, arguments, feuds and general unpleasantness.
By going alone there are no such personality clashes, but other mental strains may replace those of the group. When alone there is no one else to provide moral, mental or physical support, and the almost inevitable lows whilst on a venture of this nature can seem much blacker without friendly support, comradeship and assistance. The state of being alone, a refreshing and often vitalising state, could descend into loneliness – a dispiriting, depressing experience. Fears over certain aspects of the trek, such as the possibility of a bear encounter, may prey more on the mind of a lone hiker.
In conclusion, there is no ideal way to walk the JMT. One must weigh the advantages and disadvantages of going alone or in a group. But whatever the final choice, walking the JMT is sure to be an experience of a lifetime.
Wilderness Permits
Before you set out on the John Muir Trail, or on any other hike that requires overnight camps in wilderness areas, you need to obtain a wilderness permit. This is absolutely essential. You will almost certainly encounter several park rangers while on your trek, and many of these will demand to see your permit. There are steep fines for venturing into the wilderness without a permit. National park rangers in the States hold much greater powers than national park wardens in the UK. Some have the power of arrest and, like the police, carry guns. They are usually extremely courteous and friendly, and can offer sound advice, but never think of crossing them or breaking the rules, which are in place principally to protect this special but fragile environment. The system avoids overcrowding and reduces the impact on the wilderness areas.
There are strict allocations of permits, only a certain number being issued for each day from each trailhead. During the main holiday period during the summer months competition for them can be intense. Permits may be reserved up to 24 weeks in advance of the day you intend starting the Trail. You are strongly advised to make a request for a permit before making any other plans for walking the JMT. Once a permit has been reserved then it is safe to go ahead to book a flight to California and make all your other plans.
Looking eastwards towards the Mount Whitney massif from Guitar Lake (Day 19)
Generally hikers must leave their commencing trailhead (in this case Happy Isles, Yosemite Valley) on the day their permit begins. Make sure, therefore, that you allow yourself sufficient time after arriving in the States to buy all the food supplies needed for your hike, package them up and post them to various points along the Trail, and finally get yourself to Yosemite Village in time for the day your permit begins.
Horses kicking up the dust on the Trail in Lyell Canyon (Day 4)
Make a reservation as early as possible – as soon as you are within 24 weeks of your planned starting date. Applying early is the best way of ensuring that you are granted your permit. Remember that a request for a permit reservation does not guarantee a reservation. If the quota for that day is full then you will be rejected. Give an alternative starting date if possible.
You may request a reservation for a wilderness permit by one of three methods – by post, telephone or fax (see below). If accepted you will receive a written confirmation, which will state the date of entry to the wilderness area, the trailhead where your hike will begin and the number in your party. Retain this as proof of your reservation to present at the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite Village when you arrive. You will then receive your permit. Keep it safe at all times on the JMT and show it to any ranger who requests to inspect it.
The conditions and procedures for making permit reservations do change from time to time, and it is essential to ascertain the current situation by looking on the web or by telephoning the Wilderness Centre in Yosemite. When doing this or making a reservation by phone do not forget the significant time difference between Europe and California (see ‘Time in California’ under ‘Walking the Trail’, below).
If you are walking the JMT as described in this guidebook you will enter the wilderness area at Yosemite. You therefore need to obtain a permit from the Yosemite end of the Trail (the application procedures described in full below apply to Yosemite). The Yosemite Association, a non-profit making organisation, is now responsible for issuing permits at Yosemite.
If you wish to hike the JMT from south to north (Whitney to Yosemite) you need to obtain a permit from the Whitney end of the Trail, as it is from here that you will be entering the wilderness area. For information check out the website of the Inyo Forest Wilderness Reservation Service (/www.fs.usda.gov/inyo), the private contractor that now deals with wilderness permit applications on behalf of the Inyo National Forest. Click onto ‘Passes & Permits’ and go to ‘Wilderness Permits’. Note that in order to cope with the large and increasing numbers of walkers wanting to climb Mount Whitney, permits are required not only for overnight wilderness campers but also for day hikers in the Whitney area above Lone Pine Lake. (Permits are limited to 150 day hikers and 50 over-nighters – fines of up to $200 are levied on anyone found without a permit in the Whitney area.)
Note