The journey is split into three sections: from San Francisco to Emeryville by bus; by train from Emeryville to Merced; and by bus from Merced to Yosemite Valley. It is recommended that the first two sections of the journey are taken in succession (the bus and train timetables are co-ordinated for these two parts of the journey), but that the journey is then broken in Merced for a couple of overnights there. This will allow time for buying provisions for the trip and packaging and posting them to various pick-up points further along the Trail.
Rock towers seen at close hand on the ascent to Forester Pass (Day 18)
The information below was correct at the time of writing, and will give sufficient information to allow initial planning, but services may change, so up-to-date information should always be sought. Check out timetables at www.amtrak.com (this site includes details of both train and connecting buses for the entire journey between San Francisco and Yosemite Valley). Note that the 24-hour clock is not generally used for timetables in the US. The information below refers to the summer season only.
San Francisco to Emeryville
The bus leaves from a number of points in San Francisco, so choose the one nearest your hotel: San Francisco Moscone Center (SFM), San Francisco Financial Center (SFF), San Francisco Ferry Building (SFC), San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf (SFW), San Francisco Union Square (SFS) and San Francisco Peninsula Line (SFP). There are three buses daily, bus 6614 in the morning, bus 6616 at lunchtime and bus 6618 in the afternoon. The journey time to Emeryville is approximately 55mins. Luggage is checked in at the bus station for the whole journey by bus and train to Merced. There may be a surcharge for any rucksack weighing more than 23kg. The bus travels to Emeryville train station for the connection to Merced.
Emeryville to Merced
Three trains a day connect with the above buses: the 714 train connects with the 6614 bus in the morning, the 716 train connects with the 6616 bus at lunchtime, and the 718 train connects with the 6618 bus in the afternoon. Journey time is about 2hrs 45mins. To give one example: if the 9.15am bus from San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf is taken then this will arrive at Emeryville train station at 10.05am in time for the 10.15am train to Merced, arriving at 12.50pm.
Merced to Yosemite Valley
At the time of writing there are three buses per day between Merced and Yosemite Valley, two in the morning (buses 8402 and 8412) and one in the late afternoon (bus 8416). Journey time is between 2hrs 20mins and 2hrs 50mins. Buses leave from Merced railway station, connecting with the train services (see Amtrak website). It is possible by taking the first bus of the day from San Francisco to be in Yosemite Valley by early afternoon, to collect your permit and so set out on the JMT early the next morning. When arriving by bus at Yosemite, ask to be put off at the Visitor Center in Yosemite Village, which is close to the Wilderness Center, where you must first go to pick up your wilderness permits.
At the time of writing The Travel Bureau in Wombourne (see Appendix 6) is the UK agent for Amtrak in the US and will take bookings for the bus/train/bus journey from San Francisco to Yosemite Valley.
From the Trailhead: Lone Pine to Los Angeles
Once you have completed the JMT you will have to reach the town of Lone Pine, 13 miles from the Whitney Portal Trailhead (for hints on how to achieve this see the end of Day 21). No doubt you will wish to spend a night or two in Lone Pine before moving on to Los Angeles or back to San Francisco for your return journey. This will allow you some time to sort out your onward travel arrangements.
Two public bus companies, Eastern Sierra Transit (www.estransit.com and YARTS (the Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System, www.yarts.com) have expanded the scope and frequency of their services in recent years, so that it is no longer necessary to consider hiring a car to reach either town. Consult these websites for route maps, timetables and fares (2014 prices and timetables quoted below). Tickets can be purchased on the buses, but it is better to buy a ticket in advance if possible (information is available from the Lone Pine Tourist Office).
One-way car or small mini-bus hire may still be more cost effective if you have finished the JMT as part of a small group. The Enterprise Car Hire Firm in Bishop (for bus to Bishop see below) is the closest car hire location to Lone Pine.
To Los Angeles
On the Eastern Sierra Transit Route 395 from Lone Pine to Bishop there are three buses a day, Monday to Friday, taking under two hours, costing $8. The earliest of these, at 6.15am on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday goes all the way to Reno, arriving at 1pm, costing $59. From Reno Greyhound Buses operate day and night services to Los Angeles, taking approximately 13 hours and costing about $90. Other bus operators also ply this route.
To San Francisco
First travel from Lone Pine to Bishop, as above. Also on Route 395 from Bishop there are three buses a day, Monday to Friday, taking just under an hour to Mammoth Lakes costing $7. At Mammoth Lakes transfer to a YARTS bus to Yosemite which operates a daily service July and August and weekends only in June and September. The bus departs at 8am, takes 4 hours and costs $18. From Yosemite Valley take the bus back to Merced (under three hours and $13) and then Amtrak train to San Francisco.
Remember that any of these services may be withdrawn or significantly changed at any time, and that other possibilities may present themselves in the future. Be sure to check the transport company websites before you leave and use the Trail grapevine to keep abreast of the current situation.
Booking Accommodation
Consider booking accommodation in San Francisco for your first night in the US. It is advisable to do this from home before arriving in the States, as you will probably be arriving in the middle of the summer holiday period when most accommodation will be full. A booking in one of the more upmarket hotels in San Francisco can be made via the internet. The net is less useful for cheap and cheerful hotels, in which a booking is more likely to be secured by arriving in person, but this is not advisable if your flight arrives fairly late in the day.
Unfortunately, most flights from Europe arrive in the late afternoon or early evening, when passengers will feel extremely jet-lagged. (Remember that Californian time is 8 hours behind the UK.) San Francisco has two youth hostels, one in Union Square in Downtown and the other in the popular Fisherman’s Wharf area of the town (Fort Mason – the bus stop to Yosemite is a 25-minute walk from this hostel and a good supermarket is only two minutes’ walk away).
Booking is strongly advised for visits in the main summer holiday season (Hostelling International, 312 Mason St, San Francisco, CA 94102 ([email protected]) and Hostelling International, Fort Mason, Building 240, San Francisco, CA 94123 ([email protected]). The San Francisco hostels can also be booked on the Hostelling International website.
A view of the Lyell Fork river in the Lyell Canyon (Day 4)
The best form of accommodation in Merced is a motel room. This can be booked easily for the major chain motels (such as the Best Western in Merced) over the Internet, but again it seems to be more difficult to book a motel room at the cheaper end of the market over the net.
Several hikers have recommended the Yosemite Bug Lodge (www.yosemitebug.com) a HI hostel situated about 25 miles from Yosemite village and on the bus route from Merced to Yosemite (bus stop, outside the entrance).
Accommodation is in dormitories, tent cabins or wooden cabins and a fresh food café is on site. The bus fare from the hostel to Yosemite is $12, and this is said to include the $10 Park entrance fee! (2010 prices).
On arrival at Yosemite Village you will probably head for the Backpackers’ Campsite, which is a 5–10 minute walk from North Pines/Stables bus stop number 18. Only people with wilderness permits can