Rifugio Malga Roen is at the crossroads of a number of paths, the one leading to the ferrata being 560, heading south on a gravel road to reach CAI Rif. Oltradige, 1775m, in about 15–20 minutes. ‘Cima Roen Ferrata 0.45, 523’ is signposted behind the rifugio, and a path zigzags up to its start in 10–15 minutes.
Monte Roen: waymarking here is difficult to see!
The ferrata is well cabled (but note that a lot of the cable is now loose) as it makes its way up easy ledges for 15 minutes and then goes up an open gully on good rock with cables all the way to the top (another 15 minutes). From the top of the ferrata, path 523 leads through small pines to the summit of Monte Roen, 2116m, in a further 15 minutes (a total of 3 hours from the Campi-Golf car park). The views from the summit take in many major mountain ranges, to the west Adamello and Brenta, to the north Stubai and Zillertal, and to the east/north-east the peaks of the Dolomites.
The simplest descent is to follow path 500 north from the summit of Monte Roen back down to Rif. Malga Roen (30 minutes) and retrace path 500 back to the start point in a total time of about 2 hours. An alternative descent, which extends the day by about 2 hours, heads south on path 500 to the summit of Testa Nera (also known as Schwarzer Kopf), 1960m. Descend south-east from here on a protected path, 560 Sentiero dei Camosci (or Gemsensteig), back to Rif. Oltradige, from where you retrace your steps back to Rif. Malga Roen and to path 500 down to the start point.
VALLE DI PRIMIERO AND SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA
Map
(all routes) Tabacco Carta Topographica 1:25,000 Sheet 022
Tourist Information Office
APT Fiera di Primiero, Via Dante 6, 38054 Fiera di Primiero, Italy (TN)
Tel: 0439.62407
Fax: 0439.62992
E-mail: [email protected]
Tourist Information Office
APT San Martino Di Castrozza, Via Passo Rolle 165, 38054 San Martino Di Castrozza, Italy (TN)
Tel: 0439.768867
Fax: 0439.768814
E-mail: [email protected]
Internet (both offices): www.sanmartino.com
Pala di San Martino is a stunning group of mountains with a number of high-quality and serious via ferratas. There is an abundance of accommodation in the Primiero valley, with Fiera di Primiero at its southern end and San Martino di Castrozza to the north both providing a full range of facilities, including accommodation to suit all pockets. A two-stage lift system from S. Martino gives easy access to the north-western area of the group. There are large and helpful tourist offices in both resorts, as detailed above. Local mountain guides attend the S. Martino office each evening from 1730 to 1930hrs (or tel. 0439.768795, www.aquilesanmartino.com, Email [email protected], Cellphone +39 342 981 3212). There are three campsites: Camping Sass Maor, Via Laghetto 48, San Martino, tel. 0439.68347, email [email protected]; Camping Castelpietra Val Canali, Transaqua, tel. 0439.62426, email [email protected]; Campeggio Calavise, Imer, tel. 0439.67468, www.campingcalavise.it. Fiera di Primiero has a sports centre which includes an indoor swimming pool that opens at 1500hrs seven days a week throughout the summer.
The routes in the Pala resemble a giant game of snakes and ladders, with any number of permutations available for combining routes. In stable weather, the Pala mountains are superb for multi-day trips using rifugios to stay high up in the mountains and to link combinations of routes. Your choice is likely to depend on your transport arrangements; if you have a car, then you will probably select a circuit, whereas if you are using public transport, or are on a hutting tour, then you will perhaps choose a traverse.
The soaring peaks of the southern Pala group, dominated by Sass Maor, seen from the west
For simplicity each ferrata in this section is described as a discrete entity, providing an explanation of how it can be linked with other routes. Where one route is generally used in ascent, and the other in descent, the most suitable way of completing the circuit is recommended. You can then choose your own combination of routes depending on fitness, weather and the time you have available.
Suggested Combinations of Routes
S.MAR 1 and 2 are complementary, but can be climbed separately.
S.MAR 3 – S.MAR 9 are in the central area of the Pala, between Rif. Rosetta and Val Canali. These seven routes offer numerous combinations: the best are as follows.
Combine S.MAR 4 and 3 as a circuit from Rif. Rosetta, or climb either S.MAR 3 or S.MAR 4 individually and then use S.MAR 6 as the descent route.
S.MAR 5 is generally climbed with S.MAR 6 used as the descent route.
S.MAR 6 is not often climbed, usually being used as a descent for the S.MAR 3, 4 or 5 routes.
S.MAR 7 goes up to Rif. Velo and can easily be climbed up and down in the same day. Alternatively, use S.MAR 7 as a descent after climbing S.MAR 8 or S.MAR 9.
S.MAR 8 is normally climbed in a clockwise circuit, using S.MAR 9 as the descent route (although S.MAR 7 could also be used as the descent).
S.MAR 9 is normally used as the descent route from S.MAR 8, but it could be used as an ascent route, with S.MAR 7 (or even S.MAR 8) as the descent.
At the end of Val Canali, on its eastern side you will find the remaining three routes in this section, S.MAR 10, 11 and 12. They are climbed as follows.
S.MAR 10 is an ascent route with S.MAR 11 as descent.
S.MAR 12 is a short, stand-alone route.
S.MAR 1
Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli
| Grade: | 4 |
| Seriousness: | C |
| Departure point: | Colverde gondola lift, San Martino di Castrozza to 1980m |
| Ascent: | 1520m |
| Descent: | 850m |
| Via ferrata: | 500m |
| Approximate time: | 7–7½ hours |
| Highest altitude: | 3192m, Cima della Vezzana |
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These timings and height statistics include the ascent
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