The Aftermath
Peace was cemented in 1919 by the treaty of San Germain, which established the national boundaries seen today. Territorially, Italy was a major beneficiary of the peace settlement. In addition to the whole of the Dolomite region, Italy also secured part of the Dalmation coast and the port of Trieste. Altogether, some 1.6 million new Italian citizens were acquired, many of whom could not speak Italian! Many families tell of older relatives who were born Austrian, but died Italian.
Despite their Italian nationality, the people of the northern Dolomites, including the Bolzano province, generally retain German as their first language, and demonstrate many expressions of their cultural traditions. Unsurprisingly, separatist sentiment can be found not far beneath the surface within the German-speaking community. To a degree these pressures were defused by the granting of special status to the Trentino–Alto Adige region. This has been reinforced by generous tax benefits and grant aid, cementing the position of the region as one of the richest in the country.
The ancient Ladin culture still survives in the northern Dolomites, and there are daily Ladin-language broadcasts from Bolzano (see volume 1 for more information). Interestingly some of the villages around Bolzano, west across to Paganella and the Brenta, speak their own variations of Ladin, unique to very small areas, such that you can encounter different spoken dialects even from village to village.
History of CAI and Rifugios
Prior to the First World War, mountain huts were built across the Alps, including the Sud Tyrol, by the then German and Austrian Alpine Club. When the Sud-Tyrol was absorbed into Italy, following the treaty of San Germain, these huts were taken over by the CAI, becoming rifugios. Sadly, many were subsequently destroyed or used by Italian soldiers in their attempts to stop insurgency, and from 1922 to 1973 the Austro/Italian border was effectively closed to climbers. Happily, since 1973 many huts have been rebuilt or renovated, and now provide an excellent network of facilities throughout the region.
Route plaque memorabilia Ferrata del Centenario SAT (RIVA 7)
Geology
The name ‘Dolomites’ is derived from a French geologist, Deodat Guy Sylvain Tancre de Gratet de Dolomieu, a scholar who in 1789 was so fascinated by the carbonate rock that he sent samples to Switzerland for classification. When they were returned as of a previously unknown composition, they were named after him. In the 19th century it was mainly English mountaineers who applied the name ‘Dolomia’ to the area in recognition of the geological discovery.
Dolomite rock is made up of stratified calcium magnesium carbonate, with some areas of true limestone, some containing more stratified and folded rock than others depending on the area. Limestone has a reputation for loose rock, the Dolomites being no exception. Interestingly enough the colour of the rocks gives an indication of the firmness or friability. Generally, grey and black rocks are firm (though the black colour also indicates possible wetness), yellow-coloured rock is only reasonably firm, and red rock is the loosest.
Flora
Flora – flowers, plants and trees – form a wonderful complement to the mountain environment! The Dolomite landscape is a result both of man’s recent work and geological activity over millions of years. Scree and glacial debris carried down into the valleys was initially stony and barren, as can still be seen in vast areas. However, over time, the organic remains in the earth allowed vegetation to grow, and now an amazing array of flowers thrives in even the bleakest of landscapes.
Trees such as beech, fir and larch have become established in the valleys, with hardier pines on higher ground. Many varieties of fungi can be found, particularly in woodland, and their collection is an Italian obsession, albeit subject to strict controls.
Different plants live at different altitudes, with three principal growing zones identified. These are the sub-montane zone (below 1000m), the principally wooded montane zone (1000 to 2000m), and the high alpine zone (above 2000m), being that above the tree line. Alpine flora, usually abbreviated to alpines, is a generic term referring to plants which grow in this zone.
Factors such as temperature, light, soil, wind, rain, snow and ground slope combine to create complex environments. Plants adapt to different habitats by developing their own characteristics. Some grow in thick tufts to protect themselves against thermal fluctuations. Another common adaptation is to grow a protective covering of hair to act as a thermal cushion. Another device, where soil is thin, such as in rock crevices, is the development of long root systems. Snow cover in the winter has a big impact on plant life, and it is truly amazing in spring or early summer to see flowers appearing even as the snow melts!
A wide variety of alpine flora exist in the Dolomites: edelweiss, soldanella, ranunculus (alpine buttercup), saxifrage, gentian, geranium, anemone, violet and primula, to name but a few. Some species are endangered and protected, but your general rule should always be – do not pick flowers, however abundant they may appear to be.
Devil’s Claw: a rare plant, but occasionally seen on ferrata routes
Although you will see flowers in all areas covered by this volume, there are two places of particular interest. One is the whole ridge of Monte Baldo rising above the eastern side of Lake Garda (routes ROVER 5, 6 and 7 are in this area). The other is the Alpine Garden at Viote on Monte Bondone, which boasts over 1000 species of alpine plants and is open to the public from June until September (see TRENT 7).
If you wish to pursue an interest in alpine flowers, then in addition to reading the excellent books which are available, you can contact the Alpine Garden Society in the UK (see Appendix 5).
Wildlife
Camosci, stambecchi, deer and marmots are amongst the animals you are likely to see during your trip. The chamois, a type of goat, lives on the scant grass above the tree line, as does the less common long-haired stambecco. Roe deer are widespread at lower altitudes in, or close to, tree cover. Colonies of marmots, living in burrows above about 1600m, are more frequently heard than seen because of their high-pitched whistle. Whilst generally shy creatures, some colonies are becoming more used to human traffic, so you might well see one on look-out duty, erect on its hind legs.
Until the end of the 19th century, bears were common in the woods of the Dolomites, but hunting and de-forestation led to many years of extinction. However, it is now thought that some may have migrated back towards the Dolomites from Slovenia – but are still a long way from the main areas for via ferratas!
Birds include eagles, buzzards, mountain choughs (swarms of which seem to arrive on every summit as soon as a sandwich is unwrapped!), woodland grouse or capercaille (at home in woods and undergrowth), white ptarmigan (which changes its plumage in summer to brown), crows, woodpeckers, owls, alpine tree creeper, jay, skylark and many species of finch.
Snakes are often encountered basking on paths on warm, sunny afternoons. Adders are common, easily recognised by their chevron patterning; tread carefully so as not to disturb, remembering that they are more frightened than you are!
Normally timid creatures, juvenile marmots can be very curious!
BOLZANO
Maps