Alternatives
Omitting Creag nan Calman
Rather than continuing to climb Creag nan Calman, return from the summit by the same route (12km, 630m).
5
Stac Pollaidh (613m) ‘the stack’, or ‘steep rock’, ‘by the pool’
| Start | GR 107 095 |
| Distance | 5km |
| Ascent | 520m |
| Time | 2hr–2hr30 |
| Terrain | This short circuit round the hill presents no difficulties, and, although steep, nor does the ascent to the ridge. A traverse along the ridge, however, requires exposed scrambling, to grade 3 for the final summit, and anyone attempting it needs to remember they will have to return the way they came. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 439 |
| Access | Polly Estates 01854 622 452 |
| Getting there | Start at the Stac Pollaidh car park off the Achiltibuie road next to Loch Lurgainn (107 095). A local bus runs from Ullapool to Achiltibuie (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Take a drive around the beautiful Inverpolly landscape. |
Something of a national treasure, Stac Pollaidh is beloved by many. A circular route up to, and possibly along, its rocky pinnacles, offers a mini adventure at the heart of the beautiful Inverpolly Estate.
Based on 3000-million-year-old rock that was once a part of North America and Greenland, Stac Pollaidh is now very much a Scottish institution. This small mountain has long held a place close to the heart of many walkers and it is easy to see why.
The dramatic rocky pinnacles of Stac Pollaidh’s ridge
Its dramatic rocky towers and pinnacles rise up from the banks of Loch Lurgainn, presumably the pool that gives Stac Pollaidh its name. Right in the centre of what was for many years the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve, Stac Pollaidh rubs shoulders with the likes of Cul Mor, Cul Beag and Coigach, some of the giants of the Sutherland landscape, though they too fall into the ‘small’ category. With sea views and a backdrop to die for, it really is the epitome of picturesque.
But perhaps the reason Stac Pollaidh is so loved is that it is slowly shrinking. Worn down over the years by walkers and weather alike, the Torridonian sandstone that makes up Stac Pollaidh’s ridge appears to be eroding far quicker than its neighbours. Scientists at the British Geological Survey believe that weathering has taken place for so long as to suggest that the ridge was not covered by ice during the last ice age, when other hills were. But don’t worry – it’s unlikely Stac Pollaidh will disappear any time soon, especially with its new path.
Route
From the car park cross the road to take the well-built path on the other side. This starts off steep, but the gradient soon eases. When the path divides, take the left fork to pass through a gate in a deer fence and climb steadily northwest.
The path then heads north to bring you over the west shoulder of Stac Pollaidh and round the back of the hill. As you come round the back, ignore an older, eroded path off to the right that leads to the pinnacles. Instead, continue round until the path divides again, the left fork heading down to the east. You take the right fork, climbing steeply southeast up some rock steps and then along the top of a fence line to gain the ridge and a large cairn at 543m (110 104, 2km, 1hr15).
Stac Pollaidh from Ben More Coigach
This point, with its great views south to Coigach and north to Suilven, is where many walkers stop. The ridge from here involves some reasonably serious exposed scrambling, particularly on the final top, which is classed as a grade 3 scramble.
To continue, head west, making use of the small path that runs along the north side of the ridge to avoid the first rocky towers. This brings you to the unavoidable final tower for which you will need a good head for heights and scrambling skills to gain the summit (613m) (107 106, 2.5km, 1hr45). You are rewarded with great views west to the Summer Isles and across to neighbouring peaks.
Retrace your steps to the cairn, then head northeast down a path on the far side of the previously mentioned fence line. This brings you down to the main path around the hill, which this time takes you round the east of the peak.
A few large zigzags bring you to the front of Stac Pollaidh again, then back to car park (5km, 2hr–2hr30).
Alternatives
Avoiding the Ridge
An easy circular route of Stac Pollaidh can be made without gaining the ridge at all. To do this, take the left turn when the path divides to the north of the peak and continue round (3.5km, 400m).
6
Ben More Coigach (743m) and Sgurr An Fhidhleir (705m) ‘big hill of Coigach’, Coigach coming from the Gaelic coigeach, meaning ‘a fifth share of land’, in this case thought to mean a fifth of the then Cromarties; Sgurr an Fhidhleir translates literally as ‘peak of the fiddler’
| Start | GR 061 041 |
| Distance | 10km |
| Ascent | 900m |
| Time | 4hr |
| Terrain | A short route with some steep slopes and exposed sections of ridge. Stretches without paths make for some rough walking and the need for good navigation in poor visibility. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 439 |
| Access | Ben More Coigach is located in its entirety within the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve. For up-to-date access information, contact 0131 312 7765. |
| Getting there | Park in a lay-by at Culnacraig, near the very end of the road that passes through Achiltibuie (061 041). There are some buses from Ullapool to Achiltibuie (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Take a boat trip on the Hectoria from Achilitibuie to the seal colonies of the Summer Isles (01571 622200). |
Rising dramatically out of the sea, the Ben More Coigach range dominates the Coigach peninsula while remaining fairly unknown to walkers. The great ridge walk combined with some of the best views in the world make for a brilliant day out.
The long ridge to Ben More Coigach
Ben More Coigach is the highest peak on the peninsula that gives it its name. Together with its neighbour and subsidiary peak, Sgurr an Fhidhleir, it forms part of a stunning mountain massif.
Carved out of sandstone by glaciers, the peaks form part of the North West Highland Geopark. The first of its kind in Scotland, the geopark celebrates the unique geology, landscape and communities of the far northwest of Scotland. With the Ben More Coigach ridge dominating the view north from Ullapool, it is easy to see why it is geology to be celebrated.
The ridge ends abruptly, dropping dramatically to the sea, with the spectacular views out to the Summer Isles more famous than the peaks themselves. The Summer Isles, a collection of picturesque islands out to the west, when caught at sunset on a descent from Ben More Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir, offer one of the best vistas there is.
While once widely inhabited by farmers, herring fishermen and even illicit whisky distillers, it is now only Tanera Mor, the largest of the Summer Isles, that still has a few occupants, though it is a very popular destination for