Less than three decades later, the castle and much of Assynt were captured by the Mackenzie clan, who went on to build neighbouring Calda House, now also in ruins. Their stay was short lived too, as the Crown seized the castle and land following the Mackenzies’ participation in the failed Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.
From Kylesku, to Quinag’s north, you can travel by boat along Loch Glencoul to the site of Britain’s highest waterfall – Eas a’Chual Aluinn. At 200m, it is more than three times as high as Niagara Falls, though perhaps not quite as wide!
Now owned and protected by the John Muir Trust, Quinag is part of both the North West Highlands Geopark and the Assynt National Scenic Area. Its long ridges and fine peaks give rise to views over one of the wildest landscapes in Scotland. The surrounding land is studded with myriad lochs and lochans with white sandy beaches, stretched along the west coast beyond.
Route
From the car park, cross the A894 to take the small path that starts on the opposite side. This good path heads gently up towards the large east corrie of Quinag and the Lochan Bealach Cornaidh. It passes above the north side of the lochan, with its tantalising sandy beach, to come to steeper slopes below the Bealach a’Chornaidh.
Instead of climbing directly to the bealach, take the path off to the right (202 285) to double-back on yourself and traverse steeply northeast up onto the shoulder of Sail Gharbh by a large cairn (203 289). From here, head right along the broad rocky shoulder to reach the summit of Sail Gharbh (808m) (209 291, 5km, 2hr). Looking south you see the rocky buttresses of your last top of the day, Spidean Coinich.
Spidean Coinich and Lochan Bealach Cornaidh
Retrace your steps along the shoulder, but once at the cairn continue straight on, dropping slightly before making the steep ascent up the grassy slope of an unnamed peak at 745m. From here, on a clear day, the views out to sea and the Summer Isles are magical.
A steep path leads you north-northwest down off the top and along a narrow section of ridge. Once past an impressive square-topped knoll, a long but gradual ridge, with great views west, takes you all the way to the summit of Sail Gorm (776m) (198 303, 7km, 3hr).
Again retrace your steps, this time back to the unnamed top, from which the path zigzags steeply south on loose rock down to the Bealach a’Chornaidh. You could choose to return to the start from this point for a shorter day, but it is well worth continuing.
Climb very steeply south on an increasingly narrow ridge and along its interesting and airy rocky crest to reach a second unnamed top (713m). A gentler descent brings you to a small lochan and the final climb of the day. Pass the lochan on its left to gain the steep, rocky path to the summit of Spidean Coinich (764m) (206 277, 10km, 4hr30). Here the best views are over Loch Assynt and the peaks of Canisp and Suilven to the south.
To descend, head steeply southeast, balancing your way down across the large boulders of Spidean Coinich’s summit. The gradient soon lessens and the large boulders shrink, giving way to smaller stones and large slabs of rock. Use these slabs to pick a way east down the stony slopes, keeping near the edge of the shoulder. As you near the bottom, a small cairn (226 272) marks the start of a newer section of path that leads you north, avoiding boggy ground, to rejoin the outward path by a large cairn (228 276), from where it is a short walk back to the start (13km, 5hr30).
Alternatives
The route up Quinag can be easily reversed or shortened by only climbing the peaks to the north or to the south of the Bealach a’Chornaidh, or by omitting Sail Gorm.
From Loch Assynt
The only other route onto Quinag is from the road alongside Loch Assynt, the A837. A track leaves the road to the west of Tumore (182 267). Follow this to the Bealach Leireag, from where a very steep, rocky ascent can be made to the Bealach a’Chornaidh and then the main route above followed (3km, 500m to the Bealach a’Chornaidh, shown in blue).
3
Suilven (731m) the ‘suil’ part meaning ‘pillar’, from the Norse sular, the ‘ven’ part meaning ‘mountain’, from the Gaelic bheinn
| Start | GR 107 219 |
| Distance | 23km (+ 6km road walk if no transport) |
| Ascent | 1170m |
| Time | 7hr |
| Terrain | This is a long and demanding route. A good approach path gives way to boggier ground and a very steep, rocky ascent. The descent is equally steep, with a long walk out on boggy paths until the good path down the River Kirkaig. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 442 |
| Access | www.assyntfoundation.org 01571 844100 |
| Getting there | The route starts on the road to Glencanisp Lodge from Lochinver. There is parking just before the public road ends (107 219). If walking from Inverkirkaig back to Lochinver, it would be worth parking in the village itself to avoid a climb at the very end of the day. There are buses to Lochinver from Inverness and Ullapool (www.stagecoachbus.com or contact Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Visit the Achins bookshop and cafe at Inverkirkaig (01571 844262) or get one of the best pies in the world at the Lochinver Larder (01571 844356, www.lochinverlarder.co.uk). |
Scottish mountains don’t come any more iconic than Suilven. Instantly recognisable, this small but mighty peak rises up as if from nowhere to dramatic effect. A long, classic route with rewards aplenty.
When the Vikings came to their ‘south land’ – Sutherland – they saw Suilven from the sea and named it ‘pillar mountain’, so much did it dominate the landscape. Today geologists refer to it as an inselberg, or island mountain.
Meall Meadhonach from the summit
An isolated peak rising dramatically out of moorland, Suilven is formed of Torridonian Sandstone capped with Cambrian Quartzite. This tougher quartzite cap protected the sandstone beneath during the ice ages, creating the inselberg shape, as the rocks all around were eroded away. The surrounding landscape, worn down to the ancient Lewisian Gneiss that forms the base here, was scoured out to leave hundreds of little lochans and hummocks.
The human history of the area is pretty groundbreaking too. Sitting above the fishing village of Lochinver, Suilven forms part of the Glen Canisp Estate. In an area of Scotland hardest hit by the Highland Clearances, this estate was long held in private hands.
In 1886, the Lochinver branch of the Highland Land League agreed to demand the restoration to the people of the deer forest of Glencanisp ‘where there is plenty of provision for ourselves and our families. It extends twenty-one miles … and the land of our fathers lying waste.’ In 2005, their demand was met.
Suilven – the classic view
The Assynt Foundation, formed by a group of local residents, managed to secure a community buy-out of the Glencanisp Estate and neighbouring Drumrunie Estate, under the 2003 Land Reform Act. The foundation now owns and manages the 44,000 acres, including Suilven, for the benefit of the community and the public,