Clothing
Walking boots – must be comfortable, well fitting, with ankle support and plenty of grip in the soles
Trainers or similar for wear in huts, hotels and villages
Wind- and waterproof jacket and overtrousers
Umbrella
Woollen hat and sunhat
Gloves
Fleece or woollen sweater
Shirts – 2 or 3 for a fortnight's holiday
Warm long trousers, slacks or breeches – not jeans which are very cold when wet
Shorts (optional)
Walking socks
Underwear
Miscellaneous
Rucksack – with waterproof liner and/or cover
Sheet sleeping bag (if you plan to stay in huts)
Bivvy bag – in case of emergencies
Trekking pole(s) – very useful on steep descents, scree, snow, stream crossings, etc
Headtorch plus spare batteries and bulbs
Water bottle (minimum 1 litre)
Sunglasses, suncream/sunblock and lip salve
First aid kit
Map and compass
Whistle
Watch
Guidebook
Penknife
Camera and films
Binoculars
Altimeter and GPS
Dôme de Neige des Écrins, from Tête de la Maye (Route 64)
Recommended Maps
All the walks included in this guide may be followed using just one map: Carte de Randonnées Écrins published by Rando Éditions at a scale of 1:50,000 (1cm = 500m or roughly 1¼in = 1 mile). This may be obtained from major map stockists in the UK (addresses given in Appendix C), and is available in most valley centres within the Écrins region.
This map is based on the official IGN survey (Institut Géographique National – equivalent to the Ordnance Survey in the UK), with the addition of major walking routes highlighted in red, and mountain huts and gîtes d'étape made prominent. The cartography is very good, and the amount of detail shown is perfectly adequate for the walker's needs. Altitudes and distances quoted in this guidebook are generally based on this particular sheet (2005 edition), although where the map is at variance with either mountaineering convention (in respect of the height of some summits) or the altitude of certain huts, I have made a judgement based on either conventional prejudice or the reading on my own altimeter during research.
For walkers who prefer the greater detail on 1:25,000 scale maps (1cm = 250m or roughly 2½in = 1 mile), the IGN publishes no less than six sheets to cover the same area. Headed TOP 25, these are: 3535 OT Névache; 3536 OT Briançon; 3435 ET Valloire; 3436 ET Meije-Pelvoux; 3335 ET Le Bourg d'Oisans-L'Alpe d'Huez; and 3336 ET Les 2 Alpes.
Note: IGN TOP 25 maps are being allocated a UTM-WGS 84 grid to enable the position given by a GPS receiver to be easily localised on the map.
Using the Guide
This guide follows a clockwise circuit round the Parc National des Écrins from valley to valley. Each major valley system is treated within one section (or chapter) in which a number of walks of various grades are described. The only exception is Valjouffrey, which is described in the Valgaudemar chapter. All the walks are listed in the index at the end of the book. As mentioned above, the grading system ranges from 1 to 3, with the lowest number referring to the easiest and/or shortest walks, Grade 2 for moderate and medium length outings, and Grade 3 the longer and more demanding routes. However, this simplistic system will inevitably have variations and (no doubt) a few anomalies which may be disputed by users of this book, but they are offered in good faith and as a rough guide only.
Distances and heights are quoted throughout in kilometres and metres. (For metric conversions see Appendix D.) As mentioned above, these details are mostly taken from the map, but in attempting to measure the actual distance of each walk it was necessary to make the nearest estimation I could – with countless zigzags on many routes, it's impossible to be precise.
Wild country below Refuge des Bans (Route 26)
The time given for each route refers only to actual walking time and makes no allowances for rest stops or interruptions for photography – such stops can add considerably to the overall period of activity, so bear this in mind when planning your day. Times are, of course, approximations only, and each walker will have his own pace which may or may not agree with that quoted. By comparing your times with those given here, you should soon have a reasonable idea of how much we differ and compensate accordingly.
A number of the day routes described follow individual stages of the long-distance GR54 (Tour de 'Oisans). See Appendix A for more information on the GR54 in relation to the routes in this book.
General Information
Currency and Exchange
Currency is the Euro (100 cents = €1). If you are planning to use mountain huts remember to take plenty of cash as credit cards are not generally accepted in refuges.
Banks are open from 9am until noon, and between 2pm and 4pm Monday (or Tuesday) to Friday, and closed either Saturday or Monday. On the day before a bank holiday, banks usually close early. Most banks have an ATM (cash machine) that is accessible 24hrs a day.
Banks, post offices and official exchange offices will change foreign currency and traveller's cheques. Most major credit cards (Visa, Barclaycard, Carte Bleue, Mastercard/Access and so on) are widely accepted in shops, hotels and restaurants. Should the sign for your own credit card not be on display, make sure you check for acceptability before buying.
Health Care
In addition to having insurance cover for accidents, rescue and health care, British nationals (and those of other EU countries) are advised to carry a valid European health insurance card to obtain free, or reduced-cost, emergency state-provided medical treatment whilst in France. Apply to your local post office for an application form. Should you fall ill or have an accident during a visit to the Écrins, there are hospitals in Grenoble and Briançon.
Passports and Visas
British visitors will need a full, valid passport to visit France, while other EU nationals use only a Nationa identity Card. Visas are not required. Visitors from Australia, Canada and the USA (among others) need a visa only if they plan to stay in France longer than three months.
Post and Telephone Services
Main post offices (La Poste, or PTT) are open from Monday to Friday from 8am to 7pm, and on Saturday mornings from 8am to noon. Smaller branch post offices are often closed at lunchtime between noon and 2pm, and usually close for the day at 4pm. Postage stamps may be bought from newsagents, tobacconists (tabac) and shops that sell postcards.
Refuge de la Lavey (Route 57)
Most public telephone kiosks take phone cards (cartes téléphonique) which are on sale at post offices, tobacconists and newsagents. On the reverse of each phone card a selection of access numbers