Mountain Huts (Refuges)
Throughout the Écrins, mountain huts are often completely full during the French summer holiday period, and it is essential to phone ahead if you plan to use one for overnight lodging. There are many such huts within the National Park, and a number of routes in this guide lead to them, for almost every one has been built in an idyllic location. Sleeping arrangements are invariably in dormitories with large communal bunks with up to 30 places. There is no segregation of the sexes, and washroom facilities are usually quite basic and often without hot water. The gardien (where one is in residence) will normally provide cooked meals and sell bottled drinks, coffee and tea. Snacks and drinks are usually on sale during the day for passing walkers. Details of individual huts within the region covered by this guide are given in the appropriate sections.
Refuge de la Selle (Route 56)
Hotels
In the region covered by this guide, hotels are mostly small and modestly priced with a limited number of rooms. Although there are no major resorts, a number of unpretentious villages boast a one- or two-star hotel offering accommodation with a distinctly rural mountain atmosphere.
Weather
As with all Alpine areas, weather conditions here are changeable and walkers should be prepared for all contingencies. So far as walking is concerned, summer is limited to the period July to mid-September, but while daytime temperatures can be very pleasant during settled conditions, perhaps ranging from 25°C to 28°C, heavy rain and even snowfall can occur in midsummer. Even in high summer nights can be cool. Thunderstorms can occur during unsettled periods, and these can be sudden and violent. September is often marked by more settled weather than July or August, but with lower temperatures.
Always check the weather forecast (metéo) before setting out on a walk that will take you high in the mountains. The local tourist office or Bureau des Guides usually display a printed forecast covering a two- or three-day period. Alternatively, telephone 08 92 68 02 38.
Remember that what is a gentle breeze in the valley may be a piercing wind just 300m up the hillside, and as you gain height so the weather intensifies. Should a passing cloud hide the sun, the temperature can drop alarmingly. As a general guide, the temperature drops about 6°C for every 1000m of ascent.
Violent gusts of wind often indicate that a thunder storm is imminent. Lightning can be deadly and in the mountains the electrical atmosphere preceding a strike sometimes sounds like a swarm of bees. If there's any possibility of a storm, avoid ridges, metallic fixtures and prominent features that stand above open ground. Do not shelter beneath overhanging rocks or trees, and should you be caught in high open country discard meta objects (trekking pole or ice axe), and squat or curl up on your rucksack keeping hands and bare parts of your body away from the rock surface.
St-Christophe-en-Oisans in the Vallée du Vénéon (Routes 56–57)
Notes for Walkers
Walks described in this guide have been chosen with a particular hut, lake, pass or viewpoint being the goal, while the principal objective of each outing is to enjoy a day's (or half-day's) exercise among some of the finest mountain scenery in France. But to gain the most from such a holiday one needs to be in reasonably good physical condition, so do try to get fit before travelling to the Alps. Then you will not be daunted by a steep and seemingly endless uphill trail, and the first day of the holiday can be as enjoyable as the last.
Avoid being over-ambitious for the first few days, especially if you've never walked in the Alps before. It's better to increase height gain and distance steadily as you grow accustomed to the scale of these mountains – which initially may seem quite daunting. A range of walks has been chosen, so there should be something for everyone. They fall into three categories, graded 1–3, with the highest grade denoting the more challenging routes. However, this grading system is purely subjective, and newcomers to the Alps (particularly at the start of a holiday) might consider a Grade 2 outing serious enough. There are moderate walks (Grade 1) that would appeal to all active members of a family, but the majority of routes described are graded 2 or 3, largely resulting from the severity of the landscape.
The approach to Refuge du Sélé involves several scrambling sections (Route 35)
Within the Parc National des Écrins most paths are well maintained and waymarking adequate to good, but some of the more adventurous routes cross terrain where trails are non-existent beyond a vague line of cairns. In such places it is essential to remain alert and observant in order to avoid becoming lost – especially in poor visibility. If in doubt about the onward route, return to the last point where you were certain of your whereabouts and try again. If you consult the map frequently during the walk you should be able to keep abreast of your position and anticipate junctions before reaching them.
CHECKLIST
Check the weather forecast before setting out (see above). Be aware that all Alpine areas are subject to rapidly changing conditions, and throughout the day watch for tell-tale signs and be prepared with appropriate clothing.
When starting out on a full-day's walk carry food (including emergency rations such as chocolate or dried fruit) and at least 1 litre of liquid per person to avoid dehydration.
Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person, or (if you have your own transport) leave a note with such details visible in your car.
Be vigilant when crossing wet rocks, scree, snow patches and mountain streams. If you come to a section of path safeguarded by fixed ropes or chains, check that they have not worked loose before relying on them.
Do not stray onto glaciers unless you have experience, companions and the necessary equipment to deal with crevasse rescue. Keep away from icefalls and hanging glaciers.
Avoid dislodging stones onto others who might be below you.
Never be reluctant to turn back in face of deteriorating weather or if the route becomes hazardous. In the event of your being unable to reach the place where you're expected, try to send a message.
Carry map and compass with you – and know how to use them.
Always carry some first aid equipment, as well as a whistle and torch for use in emergencies. The emergency telephone number for mountain rescue (secours en montagne) is: 04 92 22 22 22. Try not to use it!
Make a note of the International Distress Signal, which is six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) followed by a minute's silence. Then repeat until an answer is received. The reply is three signals followed by a minute's pause.
Be insured against accidents (rescue and subsequent medical treatment), for although mountain rescue here is highly efficient it can be very expensive for the casualty. (See Appendix C for addresses of specialist mountain insurance companies.)
And finally, please help to keep the mountains and their valleys litter-free. Remember to carry a spare plastic bag in your rucksack for any leftover cans, bottles and food wrappers, and dispose of them properly in your valley base.
Suggested Equipment List
Experienced hill walkers will no doubt have their own preferences, but for newcomers to the Alps the following list