A friendly sign with an old walking boot being put to good use!
Weather
Weather forecasts are posted at tourist information offices, usually in French with a simpler version in English. These are updated daily and are for the coming night and next two or three days. They are generally accurate but be aware that they are based on Bourg Saint Maurice to the north and so need to be slightly adapted, particularly the timing of weather fronts approaching. You can get them by phone; the current phone number is listed on the weather reports. If you are staying in a refuge, the guardian can be a good source of information and advice on local conditions.
The summit of Pointe de Leche and Dent Parrachée in the background (Route 21)
The sun can be a significant hazard; your sunscreen should be at least SPF15. Solar radiation at 1800m is more than twice that at sea level.
Good quality sunglasses are another must. If you wear spectacles, Optilab may be worth investigating for prescription sports sunglasses at prices not far off ‘normal’ frames and lenses. Photo-chromatic wrap-around glasses are great for all-day use in a variety of weather conditions. Remember, too, that the solar radiation is still there when its overcast.
Clothing
The weather in the Alps can change very dramatically. Snow can fall at any time of the year, even in August. Valley temperatures can drop to 5°C overnight in the summer. Equally, they can rise to over 30°C in the daytime. Therefore a fairly adaptable range of clothing and equipment is required. Given fairly accurate weather forecasts, it is possible to travel light by choosing appropriate equipment for the given weather. There is always a risk with this strategy, but by choosing some of the real lightweight kit available pack weight can be minimised, something which is really worthwhile when walking at higher altitudes.
For a day walk below the snowline the following ought to be perfectly adequate:
30 litre rucksack
Paclite Gore-Tex jacket
softshell trousers (if the forecast is inclement)
trekking trousers – with zip off legs (if forecast is good)
Merino-blend socks
boots – lightweight Gore-Tex lined or a tougher mountain boot depending on the terrain to be encountered
wicking top – either long sleeve or T shirt
mid-weight fleece
lightweight fleece top
wide-brimmed sun hat
stiff-peaked water-resistant fleece-lined hat
gloves
good quality sunglasses – wrap-around style
Buff (microfibrous, multi-functional headwear)
sunscreen and lip salve
small first aid kit
trekking pole(s)
2 or 3 litre drinks bladder
lunch
emergency kit – small head torch; mobile phone; insurance documents; money; passport; gaffer tape; GPS
map and compass
guidebook
camera
Wet weather alternatives
With such a range of activities on offer, there is usually something to do. For a rest day, or when the weather has taken a turn for the worse, there are a number of alternatives.
Crossing a simple snow slope is still likely to need crampons (Route 22)
The Maison du Vanoise at Termignon is an interpretation centre that allows you to understand the traditional lifestyle of the valleys and high mountains. One of the highlights is a model of a typical marmot colony enabling you to see exactly where the little critters go when the lookout whistles! The 3D virtual flight through the national park is a new technological attraction which combines a Google Earth type of projection with a large screen and a joystick control. Free internet access is also available, which may be useful for gaining longer term weather forecasts and keeping in touch. Downstairs is the tourist office and outside are the weather reports and an ATM.
Mini-golf Parrachée
The pyramidal visitor centre at the Lac du Mont Cenis is another interesting place to develop an understanding of the area. It has displays of old farming methods and a section on the battle front of the valley during World War II. A short film (in French) gives an impression of the struggle the mountain troops faced. There are some written English explanations and a useful audio guide in English to help you understand the exhibition.
The mini-golf on the road out of Lanslebourg is popular; although the owner insists it is ‘serious’, it is a favourite with children. The Biathlon d'Eté (summer biathlon) centre at Bessans has a permanent summer course for roller skiing, which is like cross-country skiing without the snow. Equipment (including safety pads and helmet) can be hired locally and a day ticket purchased. Instruction is available and rollerblading is also welcome. Courses are colour-graded and surfaced in a smooth tarmac. Falls are inevitable, so jeans, or at least long trousers, are recommended.
The high ropes adventure courses (parcours aventure) at the Redoute Marie Thérèse near Modane and another on the road to Bellecombe from Termignon are sure to be a big hit with children (and those who enjoy thinking they're still ten years old).
There are numerous small artisans offering their wares: glassmaking, pottery and ‘artisan du bois’ abound and vary in style from beautiful to the more acquired taste. A visit to Bois s'Amuse in Sollières offers you a range of very reasonably priced wooden toys and ornaments.
Susa is a small Italian town ‘over the pass’ from Lanslebourg and was an important staging post for the journey from Lyon to Turin. It has a host of Roman remains, including an amphitheatre, triumphal arch and remains of the old wall and aqueduct. On the road over the pass, there are the remains of the covered Fell railway that forms a chapter of Whymper's Scrambles in the Alps.
Should you be in the area, then the refuge and restaurant at Col de l'Iseran has a small exhibition of WWII memorabilia and a gift shop. This is the highest point of the Tour de France when it passes through the area, and you are sure to see road cyclists climbing to the summit of the col.
A fabulous visit for fans of the Winter Olympics must be the Olympic Museum in Albertville, about 1¼hrs from Haute Maurienne. The town makes for a pleasant wander, particularly the old town. The parking in the town centre is very cheap, €2–3 for up to 4hrs. The museum has a host of outfits and artefacts on display and a very interesting short film (with English subtitles) explaining the build-up to the games. Another section has some slightly disturbing reflections on how politicians have hijacked the games for their own ends. A very reasonable entry fee and minimal souvenir shop make you feel that you are welcome to come and enjoy the values of the Olympics.
Crossing the Col du Galibier to explore the walled town of Briançon, the highest town in Europe, is another option. The old town and its maze of streets will be busy on a wet day but there are a number of forts