Lizards may well be spotted basking on rocks in the sun from Easter onwards, along with a whole host of butterflies and insects.
KEEPING SAFE AROUND THE PASTOU
Not strictly wildlife but an animal almost certain to be encountered is the pastou. These are large, white dogs that roam the mountainsides with flocks of sheep. Their role is to protect the flock from predators and threats, so they will be interested in your presence. The advice from the National Park is reprinted below.
A pastou coming to investigate
Keep your distance, making a wide detour around the flock.
Remember these dogs are guard dogs, don't try to pet them, feed them or do anything they might misinterpret as a threat.
Behave calmly when passing them; avoid loud noises and sudden movements – this is probably particularly important if you have children with you.
If one comes towards you stand still and allow it to work out what you're doing, avoid eye contact as dogs interpret eye-to-eye communication as a challenge. Walking away calmly and quietly is very effective.
Plants and flowers
The Alpine meadows are a riot of colour in the summer months, and a lazy picnic amongst the multicoloured carpet of wild flowers can form the centrepiece to a relaxing ‘day off’. Many of the flowers will be familiar to keen gardeners; others will be recognisable to even the least skilled flower spotter. Edelweiss can be spotted in sunny open places high above the treeline. Great splashes of white St Bruno's lily and a range of anemone, Alpine gentians and campanulas are frequently discovered on the high mountains, while in the valleys orchids are also found in damp spots. The meadows near Bonneval-sur-Arc and l'Ecot are carpeted with orchids, polygonum and dianthus in the summer months.
Alpine gentian
Oeillet Negligée
Edelweiss
Mix of Alpine blooms in the high pastures
Trees are limited to the lower slopes and many walks are above the treeline, but the forests of Arolla Pine will provide welcome shade on valley walks and rides. These trees regularly live to over 600 years but are slow growing and as a result are vulnerable to deforestation. Careful management of the forests is very important, and the wood is popular with artisans because it has a good grain and is easy to work with. The larch is another commonly seen tree growing abundantly in the upper valley. It is unique in the conifer family as it loses its needles each winter.
History
Since the earliest of times the Maurienne valley has been occupied by human beings, and there is ample archaeological evidence stretching back to the Bronze Age and earlier. Much of this early history is explained in the museum at Sollières. The valley has served as a thoroughfare for travellers since Roman times, if not earlier. It is possible that it was the route Hannibal took to cross the Alps in 218BC on his famous journey, although no definitive archaeological evidence has ever been found of his crossing anywhere in the Alps. The route, via Col Clapier (Route 4), was still used as a main thoroughfare into the 16th century but once a more suitable route had been forged, over the Col du Mont Cenis, this old route fell into disrepair.
The region's economy has always been a mixture of agriculture and transport/tourism. The first road suitable for motor vehicles crossing the Alps was the Mont Cenis road. This was an improvement on the magnificent road constructed in the early 19th century on the orders of Napoleon to ease traffic over the pass to Italy. The modern-day road takes the same line, and the uniform gradient and sweeping curves make the 700m climb a joy, even on a bicycle. Technical innovations in transport were also tried and tested in the valley. The Fell railway, which was built from Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne to Susa, was described by the English illustrator, climber and explorer, Edward Whymper, as ‘a marvel’.
Roman remains in Susa
This used a system to climb steep slopes, a precursor to the funicular railway; it followed the road for the main part, with an ingenious third rail placed in the centre of the track. The rail was ‘gripped’ by two wheels to allow a train to climb much steeper gradients than normal. Once over the pass, the descent to Susa was protected from avalanches by long covered sections. This was such a severe descent that the brake linings had to be replaced after each descent! Remains of these sections can still be seen next to the road today. The railway was an experimental undertaking and was dismantled when the railway tunnel at Frejus was constructed. This tunnel was started in 1857 and the two teams of tunnellers shook hands on 26 December 1870, with the first train travelling in September 1871.
Because of its strategic transport importance, the region has had a strong military presence. The House of Savoy has its origins in Sardinia and in the early 19th century its lands stretched from Lac Léman to the Mediterranean. The Victor Emmanuel Fort complex near Modane is the most striking feature of their reign in the region. The forts were built to repel invasion and each is named for a prominent member of the House of Savoy. The frontier has changed repeatedly (the most obvious example of this is to be found on the slopes of Cime du Laro, Route 19).
One of the many war memorials recording the great losses suffered in the valley right through the war
During WWII the strategic importance of the valley was not lost to either side. The subterranean fort complex near Modane (part of an extended Maginot line built by the French during the military build-up in the 1930s) is a sober reminder of the conflict that came to this beautiful valley. The vicious weather conditions must have made the desperate battles for the high ground on Mont Froid, Pointe de Cugne and Petit Signal du Mont Cenis in April 1945 even more difficult. Footage in the museum at the Pyramide du Mont Cenis of the French soldiers receiving American rations in the snow shows just what the conditions must have been like.
Art and culture
The Maurienne was the road to and from Italy for those taking part in Grand Tours, and this has inevitably left its creative mark, with Baroque architecture and design particularly in evidence. Indeed, one church in Lanslebourg has been converted into a museum of Baroque architecture and artwork. Many other churches and chapels in the valley were designed in this style and are often open for visitors. A number of artisans throughout the valley also encourage visitors and sell direct to the public. The glass-blowing workshop at Avrieux and woodworkers at Sollières welcome visitors and sell unusual pieces made on site. Many dairies give guided tours (usually in French) of milk and cheese production, and also offer ‘vente directe’ for great prices and an opportunity to see the source of such wonderful food. The local cheeses are of international renown and a key ingredient in many a picnic lunch.
Folklore abounds in the mountains and the Haute Maurienne is no exception. In or near Bessans many statues and paintings feature a four-horned devil. According to folklore a local man, Joseph, was contracted to build a bridge over the Arc. He fell behind in his work and was worried that he might end up imprisoned for failing to fulfil his commitment in the allotted time. The Devil appeared and made Joseph an