Fig c Measure and mark the strap end position on the bag, and pin and stitch the strap in place through all bag layers.
Box clever …
To sew a smart-looking box remember to leave the needle in the down position when you reach the end of a line. That way you can turn a perfect 90-degree angle by pivoting your work around the needle.
Happy handles …
Instead of making fabric straps and sewing them to the bag, you could buy ready-made handles and rivet them on. If riveting handles to the bag, reinforce the handle area with fusible interfacing (see Interfacing and Interlining).
Assemble Flat-Bottomed Girl
1 Cut the fabric and stitch the bag together – cut the pattern pieces exactly as listed for the Easy as Pie bag and stitch together following steps 1–4 of that bag (previous page and above).
2 Insert a flat bottom into the bag – with the bag WSO, follow steps 2–4 of Flat Bottoms to insert a flat bottom. From the tip of the triangle measure and mark 2.5cm (1in) on the seam for the bag bottom depth.
3 Make and apply the bag straps – following step 5 of the Easy as Pie bag (above).
Peek-a-Boo Pleats
This version of the versatile book bag has an attractive but easy-to-insert pleat down the centre of the bag. As a bonus, insert a colourful strip of fabric inside the pleat to make pretty peek-a-boo pleats.
You will need
• 1 piece of canvas or linen fabric for exterior, 50cm (1⁄2yd) x 112cm (44in) wide
• 1 piece of contrasting medium-weight fabric for insert and straps, 50cm (1⁄2yd) x 112cm (44in) wide
• Sewing threads to match the fabrics
• Disappearing marker
Preparation
Cut the fabric pieces as follows:
• Main body panel pattern = 80 x 50cm (311⁄2 x 191⁄2in) – cut:
• 1 x exterior fabric
Also cut:
• 1 piece of contrast fabric, 80 x 19cm (311⁄2 x 71⁄2in), for the pleat insert panel
• 2 strips of contrast fabric, 68.5 x 10cm (27 x 4in), for the bag straps
Assemble the bag
1 Stitch the pleat insert panel to the main body panel – take the pleat insert panel WSU, fold in both long edges 1cm (3⁄8in) to the WS and iron the folds. Lay the pleat insert panel RSU down the centre of the RS of the main body panel and match up the raw short edges. Pin and stitch the pleat insert panel to the main body panel by topstitching along both long edges of the pleat insert panel 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edge. See Fig d1. Fold the bag along the long edges of the pleat insert, iron the folds and topstitch the folds in place 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edge on the main body fabric side. See Fig d2. Stitch along both short edges of the main body panel with a zigzag stitch that’s wide in width and short in length to prevent the raw edges from fraying.
Fig d1 Check that the pleat insert panel is perfectly central down the entire length of the main body panel.
Fig d2 Topstitching the pleat edge in this way will ensure the pleats remain permanently folded along the sides.
2 Fold and stitch the pleat into the bag – at the top edge of the bag find the centre of the pleat insert panel and mark. Bring both side edges of the pleat insert into the centre mark, fold and iron in place. Stitch the pleats in place along the top edge with a 5mm (3⁄16in) seam allowance. On the RS of the bag measure and mark 2.5cm (1in) down from the pleat top edge. Stitch a 5mm (3⁄16in) line of zigzag stitches (in forward and reverse) to anchor the pleats on the front of the bag. See Fig e. Repeat for the other side.
Fig e Stitch a dense line of zigzag stitches to anchor the pleats. Try using contrasting thread for added interest.
3 Stitch the bag – following steps 2–3 of the Easy as Pie bag.
4 Fold and stitch the top edge band – with the bag still WSO fold down the raw top edge of the bag 2cm (3⁄4in) to the WS and iron the fold. Topstitch all around the top and bottom edge of the bag band 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edges. Turn the bag RSO and iron.
5 Make and apply the bag straps – following step 5 of the Easy as Pie bag.
Right For maximum effect use an insert fabric that contrasts with the main fabric for real ‘pop’!
2: Choosing Fabrics
Fabric is colour, texture, picture and pattern just waiting to be mixed up, cut up and stitched up into something amazing. The first part of this chapter explores different types of fabrics suitable for bag making, then suggests fabric sources, and finally looks at ways of working with colour, pattern and texture. The second part of the chapter talks about interfacing and interlining (also known as stabilizer). Mysterious and boring in equal measure, interfacing/interlining is nonetheless an essential component in bag making. We’ll look at varieties of interfacing and interlinings and their applications, but first here are some of my tried-and-tested fabric and interfacing combinations for use in commonly made bag types.
Above There is something so gorgeously addictive about fabric. Collecting it is as much fun as sewing with it. Seeing my own fabric stash neatly stacked in colourful bundles gives me a warm happy feeling inside!
| Bag Type and Description | Bag Fabric Suggestions | Interfacing/Interlining |
| Messenger bag: soft structure, mid to large size shoulder bag. |
Denim, linen, canvas, corduroy, upholstery/home dec weight
|