Label logic …
It’s easy to muddle the interfacing and interlining after they’ve been in your stash for a bit! To take the guesswork out of identifying which is which, pin a scrap of paper to the corner of each and make a note of what it is for next time.
Need to know
When using fusible interfacing always choose an interfacing that is lighter in weight than your fabric. If you use interfacing that is too stiff for your fabric, the fabric will lose its natural drape and will become paper-like and therefore prone to creasing (just like paper).
With sew-in interlining the weight-to-fabric ratio isn’t nearly as important because creases in the interlining will not show up on your fabric.
Product names for interfacing and interlinings differ from country to country. If you tell shop assistants that you are looking for a ‘medium weight fusible interfacing’, for example, that should be enough information for them to direct you to the product.
Ironing on interfacing
1 Place the interfacing pattern piece shiny (adhesive) side down onto the WS of your fabric pattern piece, smooth down and carefully match up all edges. Place a clean damp cloth on top of the interfacing and set your iron to the interfacing manufacturer’s recommended heat setting. See Fig a.
Fig a The steam generated by the damp cloth (here I’ve used a checked tea towel) ensures a strong bond between the interfacing and the fabric.
2 Applying moderate pressure to the interfacing and fabric, press the iron onto the interfacing through the damp cloth. Working from the centre to the outer edges, press each part of the interfacing for the manufacturer’s recommend time until the interfacing is completely bonded to the fabric. See Fig b.
Fig b There should be no creases or bubbles in your interfacing.
Sewing in interlining
1 Place the interlining pattern piece onto the WS of the fabric pattern piece, match up all edges and treat as one layer. Pin your fabric pieces RST (with interlining attached on the outerside).
2 Stitch the four-layered sandwich together with your preferred seam allowance. See Fig c.
Fig c Stitching the interlining into the seams (along with the fabrics) will secure the interlining to the fabric.
Weights of interfacing and interlining
Just like fabrics, interfacing and interlining are available in different weights. The thicker/stiffer the interfacing and interlining the more support they will provide. The trick is to combine the appropriate weight of interfacing/interlining with your choice of fabrics, and this will come with trial and error. However, the information here, along with the table in Choosing Fabrics, should help you to make informed choices and save you time and frustration.
Medium-weight fusible interfacing (woven and non-woven) Use with quilt-weight cotton, heavy silk/satin, medium-weight wool/synthetics and fine linen.
Heavyweight sew-in interlining Use in between the exterior and lining of your bags when you require only a little padding.
Heavyweight/firm fusible interfacing Use with upholstery weight fabrics, heavy linen, denim and heavy wool.
The great experiment
I suggest you try my interfacing/interlining suggestions to save time, but do note that there are so many different fabrics out there and so many ways that you can combine them that the very best way to learn about which interfacing/interlining to use is to experiment – you may find the perfect product for your chosen fabric is not the one I have suggested. However, don’t worry if you end up buying the wrong product because interfacing/interlining is so useful you’ll be sure to use it on something else in the future.
Sew-in fleece/wadding Use with any fabrics to add a more substantial padded and spongy feel.
Fusible fleece/wadding Use with any fabric that you want to add support and a light padding to. Great for silk/satins when you want to strengthen the fabric by adding support behind the fabric without making it at all crisp by using normal fusible interfacing. Very convenient to use as you can fuse it your fabrics. Great for all other fabrics when you want to strengthen/reinforce the fabric while retaining its drape (or fluidity).
Extra thick/ultra-firm/craft weight Available as fusible and sew-in varieties. Though it is extra firm it still has a degree of flexibility. It is perfect for adding a more rigid structure and boxier shape to your fabrics. When applied to or combined with your fabric this interfacing can make the fabric firm enough to stand upright.
Stick it to me!
Another off-the-roll product is fusible web. This clever stuff is a heat-activated adhesive that looks like fine spider’s web. It is used to bond two layers together.
Fusible web is neither interfacing nor interlining. You can use fusible web to bond your fabrics to your interfacing – this is very useful for example when your fusible interfacing isn’t adhering to your fabrics properly or when you want your interfacing to be fusible on both sides. Fusible web is also brilliant for appliqué work.
Make it…The Reversible Bucket Bag
Half the fun of making this cheerful bag is choosing three fabrics that all look fabulous together. Once you have chosen the fabrics you’ll find this bag just kind of makes itself! The more you piece it together (like a colourful jigsaw) the more you’ll want to see the yummy finished result. Pop a pretty fabric flower onto the button closure for an extra touch of cuteness.
Front view A fabric flower embellished self-cover button with a brooch pin makes an eye-catching bag closure, and the pretty contrast binding does double duty – it binds the lining and the exterior bags together and it forms the bag handles too.
Reversed Fancy a change? Reverse the bag for a different look. Pin the button closure to whichever