RICE VINEGAR The 24-ounce (71 0-ml) bottle I buy goes quickly! I use rice vinegar for pickling, in dressings and in dipping sauces; a few drizzles will punch up any dish with a mellow acidic flavor. In a pinch, cider vinegar is a good substitute. Try to avoid using white distilled vinegar, as it's much sharper. If you have no alternative, use less than what the recipes calls for.
SALT, PEPPER AND SUGAR
I buy fine sea salt because it is less processed than iodized table salt and has a more complex flavor: Plus, if you make fermented products like kimchi, as well as pickles, the additives in table salt may interfere with the fermentation process and/ or cause the brine to go cloudy.
Don't be mistaken, though—they both contain the same amount of sodium.
Although ground white pepper powder is more commonly used in Asia, I use black peppercorns, grinding them directly into my cooking. White pepper is just husked black peppercorns anyway, so which one you use is just a matter of preference.
Organic raw cane sugar is my preferred sugar: Eco-friendly and unrefined, it has the full-bodied taste of sugarcane and undergoes less processing than white sugar:
SAMBAL OELEK Chili paste, or sambal in Malay or Indonesian, is a popular condiment in Southeast Asian cuisine; it conveniently comes in a bottle. Indonesian sambal oelek is my favorite. Named for the grinding or pounding action used to make it in a mortar, sambal oelek comprises a mixture of fresh chilies, vinegar and salt. This fiery mixture results in a powerful flavor that complements almost any dish (see page 32). Kept in your refrigerator, sambal oelek will last indefinitely.
SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS
Sichuan peppercorns may resemble black peppercorns, but they are actually berries. They have a spicy, slightly woodsy flavor and leave a numbing sensation on the tongue. Before using, toast them in a skillet and crush them. To preserve their flavor, keep them in an airtight jar in a cool place. An intensely flavored peppercorn like Tellicherry is a good substitute.
SOY SAUCE There are many different varieties of this condiment, which is made from fermented roasted soybeans and ground wheat. Sometimes I'll stock both a Japanese-style and a Chinese-style soy sauce in my pantry. Japanese soy sauce (shoyu) contains more wheat (Japanese tamari, however, contains little to none) and is darker and less salty than the Chinese variety. Most of the time, I'll have just one or the other. You can hardly taste the difference in a cooked dish. Kikkoman and Pearl River Bridge make good soy sauces across the board.
SPRING ROLL WRAPPERS
are thin sheets of dough that range in size from 4 to 8 inches (1 0 to 20 cm) square. I prefer these to the thick wrappers usually used for fried egg rolls served at Chinese restaurants in the U.S. Spring roll wrappers can be used for Indonesian, Vietnamese, and Filipino versions of fried spring rolls. Choose paper-thin, translucent wrappers like the Spring Home brand, found in the refrigerated section at Asian markets.
Store dumpling and spring roll wrappers in the refrigerator or freezer, but let them come to room temperature before using. While assembling, cover the stack of wrappers with a damp cloth to keep them moist. The wrappers are very delicate and prone to tearing. If possible, buy the ones that are already separated, and always buy extra!
SRIRACHA HOT CHILl SAUCE
In the U.S., sriracha is synonymous with Huy Fong Foods.
The California-based company makes the sauce from chili peppers, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt. Their signature squeeze bottles with the green cap and a rooster on the front are a fixture on table-tops across the country.
STAR ANISE These eight-pronged star-shaped pods impart an intense licorice flavor and fragrance to braises and soups. Hard and reddish-brown, star anise is usually sold in plastic bags; it should be stored in an airtight jar away from light and heat. Both star anise and aniseed contain the essential oil anethole, and one can be substituted for the other.
STICKY RICE Also called glutinous rice, it comes in two colors-white and purple. White sticky rice—which is not to be confused with Japanese sushi rice—turns from opaque to translucent and clumps together once it's cooked. Whole-grain purple sticky rice has a sweet, nutty taste and is commonly used for making desserts. Both types are usually found only at Asian markets. If you can't find white sticky rice, use purple.
TOFU is a high-protein, low-fat wonder that is made by coagulating fresh soy milk with a calcium compound to form curds, which are then pressed together into cakes. Tofu comes in several varieties, ranging from silky-soft and fragile to firm and dense. The type you use will depend on your cooking method, and sometimes your taste. House, Sunrise and Sun Luck are good brands available at many markets, both specialty and mainstream.
Delicate silken tofu is only suitable for soups, braises and desserts. Don't try to deep-fry silken tofu, as it can react dangerously with hot oil.
Medium-firm (momen) tofu can be battered, baked, boiled or braised.
Firm or extra-firm tofu can be sliced, diced and cubed; it is sturdy enough for stir-fries and deep-frying. Extra-firm is drier and not as silky in texture.
DRAINING TOFU Tofu should always be drained—or at least blotted—before using, especially when deep-frying. Cover a cutting board or rimmed plate with two layers of paper towels or non-terry kitchen towels. Place the tofu on top and cover the tofu with two layers of fresh towels. Carefully place a heavyweight, such as a book or pot, on the tofu. Drain for 15 minutes, changing the towels as needed.
Firm and medium tofu are the most versatile types.
TURMERIC imbues dishes with a peppery, musky flavor. The fresh rhizome has a rich orange tint and a gingery taste that is lacking in the ground dried form. However, the recipes in this book call for only the powdered version. Look for turmeric powder that is a pure deep yellow or gold. Store in an airtight container.
VEGETABLE OIL With their neutral flavor and high smoke point, vegetable oils (corn, peanut, safflower, soybean, sunflower) are the best choices for Asian cooking. I generally use organic cold-pressed sunflower oil. Feel free to use your choice of oil, but note that different oils add slightly different flavors to your dishes. It's best to experiment with a variety of oils for different purposes.
Basic Recipes
In this chapter, you'll find all the basic recipes I use to amp up flavors and add dimension to my Asian vegetarian cooking. Highlights include how to cook rice on the stovetop, garnishes to add flavor and texture, and stocks for stir-fries and soups. I also give recipes for homemade versions of prepared sauces and spice mixes that are easy to whip up at home. And don't forget pickles and fermented vegetables that make delicious snacks or meal accompaniments!
Stovetop Jasmine Rice
Fragrant jasmine is my rice of choice for pairing with most dishes. Cooking rice in a pot can be tricky, depending on the type of rice you're cooking as well as how old the rice Is. The only foolproof way to perfect that pot of rice is to cook several batches from the same bag of rice and experiment If the rice is too dry, add more water a few tablespoons at a time. If It's too soggy, decrease the water bit by bit This recipe is for white rice, but you can use the same method to cook brown jasmine rice,