CILANTRO (CORIANDER LEAF, CHINESE PARSLEY) is used to flavor marinades and is also added to noodles, soups and stir-fries as a garnish right before serving. The flavorful, earthy-tasting stems and roots are minced and thrown into curry pastes and stocks. Look for whole cilantro plants with roots at farmer's markets. To grow, buy starter plants or start from seed. To harvest fresh cilantro all season, sow seeds every two to three weeks for a continuous crop. As soon as plants are 3 to 4 inches tall with cuttable leaves, snip them for cooking. Cilantro is an annual and will need to be replenished when mature.
LEMONGRASS These yellowish-green stalks have stiff, lance-like leaves and impart a delicate citrus flavor to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Choose plump stalks that are firm and tight with no signs of mildew or rot. Wrap fresh lemongrass in moist paper towels and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Or freeze them in a zip-top bag for three months. Lemongrass is available dried (at many spice shops), minced (in the freezer section of Asian markets), and as a paste (in the refrigerated produce section of mainstream grocery stores), but ultimately fresh tastes the best. Lemon verbena has a similar flavor. The easiest, cheapest and most rewarding way to start lemongrass is by taking a cutting from a friend or by finding find fresh green stalks at an Asian supermarket. Place healthy stalks in a glass of water. Change the water every other day or whenever it begins to look murky. Roots should appear within two weeks. When the roots are a couple of inches long and there is no danger of frost, the lemongrass stalks can be planted directly in the garden. Lemongrass can grow to at least three feet tall. Harvest as needed by cutting larger outer stalks at soil level.
Thai basil
Asian (kaffir) lime leaves
coriander leaves (cilantro)
lemongrass stalks
Trimming lemongrass: Peel away the loose outer layers. Trim about 1 inch (2.5 em) from the hard root and cut off the woody top where green meets pale yellow, leaving 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 em) of the tender white core. Bruise the stem to release the aroma and oils. Throw it whole into soups and stews. To mince for stir-fries and pastes, slice the stem crosswise into the thinnest ringlets you can cut. Then rock your blade over the slices to chop them into confetti-sized chips. You'll get 1½ to 2 tablespoons of minced lemongrass for every stalk.
THAI BASIL The leaves of Thai basil are smaller and more pointed than those of the Italian sweet basil commonly used to make pesto. The burgundy stems are also a dead giveaway. Its flavor, much like licorice, is distinctive in curries and stir-fries. A mix of Italian basil and mint may be used as a substitute. To grow, start seeds indoors in early spring. Place about three seeds in a small pot; when they germinate, leave the strongest seedling and snip the others at the soil line. Water gently and grow on a sunny windowsill or under grow lights. When plants are about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) tall and the soil outside is warm, transplant into the garden. Harvest regularly by cutting stems down to the second set of leaves. This encourages the growth of healthy, full, bushy basil plants.
COCONUT PALM SUGAR
I used to buy palm sugar in disks or cylinders from the Asian market, and it was a bit of a chore to prepare, because pieces have to be shaved off before measuring and throwing into dishes. Then I discovered granulated coconut palm sugar, and now I'm hooked!
It's so much easier to use, and I've seen it at just about every grocery store I've been to. Light or dark brown sugar may be used as a substitute in a pinch, but they don't carry the same complexity of flavor as palm sugar. Keep in mind that brown sugar is sweeter than coconut sugar, so always start off with less than the recipe calls for: Wholesome is a good brand, but even a generic grocery-store brand tastes fine.
CORIANDER SEEDS There are two types of coriander seeds; the tiny round tan ones with a lemony taste are most common. Like all spices, they are best when used whole. The green coriander leaf is what we call cilantro in the U.S. Store coriander seeds in a tightly sealed jar for up to six months.
COCONUT MILK is the creamy, sweet liquid pressed from the freshly grated flesh of mature brown coconuts.
I always have a few cans sitting in my pantry for the times I want to whip up a curry or make a sticky rice treat. I buy Chaokoh brand whenever possible. Before opening, always shake the can to mix the richer coconut cream that rises to the top with the thin milk below. Be aware that the large tetra-pak box you may find in the grocery store's refrigerated section isn't suitable for Asian recipes.
CURRY PASTES are a moist blend of ground or pounded herbs and/or spices. Thai curry pastes comprise fresh aromatics such as lemongrass, galangal and chilies that are pounded together into a paste. Red curry paste may also include red chilies, shallots, coriander root, shrimp paste and lime leaves. I applaud you if you want to make curry paste at home; it yields the best flavor and you can control what goes into it (especially if you want to omit shrimp paste and additives). But if you don't want to be hunting down a laundry list of ingredients, a store-bought curry paste such as the vegan Thai Kitchen brand works well and is available in the Asian/ international aisle of most grocery stores. Note that not all brands are vegan, so be sure to read the labels!
Mae Ploy, Lobo and Aroy-D curry pastes are available at Asian markets, while the Thai Kitchen brand can be found in the Asian aisle of most grocery stores.
DUMPLING WRAPPERS These wrappers, usually made with egg and wheat flour, are available fresh and frozen in square or round shapes and various thicknesses. They can be fried, boiled, steamed or even baked, resulting in different textures: crispy, springy, chewy, or soft as clouds. Dumpling wrappers are usually labeled to indicate their use: wontons, potstickers, siu mai or gyoza. Dumpling wrappers will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to a week, or in the freezer for up to two months.
GALANGAL has an earthy aroma and a pine-like flavor with a faint hint of citrus; it is somewhat medicinal. As one of Southeast Asia's most popular aromatics, it is tossed into curries, soups and stews, as well as sambals and sauces. Be sure to remove it before serving, as it has a hard, chewy texture. Wrapped well, the roots will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to three weeks, or frozen for up to six months. Galangal is available dried or ground (not bad, if used sparingly), but fresh has lots more flavor. Many recipes suggest ginger as a substitute, but I think the flavors are oceans apart! You'll find galangal in the refrigerated section at Asian markets.
Korean red pepper paste (gochujang) is available in bottles or big tubs.
Ssam-jang or ssam sauce (left) is a mixture of fermented bean paste and red pepper paste. It accompanies grilled meats wrapped in lettuce.
KOREAN RED PEPPER PASTE (GOCHUJANG) is made from fermented soybeans, glutinous rice, red peppers and malt. Read the labels and buy a brand without additives, especially MSG. Better yet, make your own (page 34). Store it in the refrigerator once opened and it will stay fresh indefinitely.