One of my favorite varieties of rice, which I grew up eating, is medium-grain parboiled rice known as “red boiled rice” or “rosematta rice.” It is made by parboiling the rice before husking. After parboiling, the grain is separated from the husk, thereby leaving a part of the bran on the grain and giving the rice its red or reddish-brown color. It can then be boiled like any other form of rice, though it takes twice as long to cook and often requires more water. I have not used it in this book because it is only available at Indian grocery stores or online. If you do run across it and would like to try it, I recommend serving it with dishes from the southwest of India, and in particular with Kerala-Style Chicken Stew (page 94) and Goan-Style Mackerel (page 89).
Basmati, which means “queen of fragrance” in Hindi, is the most popular and the best-known rice of India, and the most expensive. It has a wonderful fragrance when cooked with whole spices and is a good match for all Indian dishes. Basmati rice is always used for puloas and biriyanis—two types of rice dishes—for it absorbs flavors beautifully and yet keeps its shape during cooking. Basmati rice, though preferred, is not absolutely necessary for simpler rice preparations, such as Lemon Rice with Peanuts (page 114) or Coconut Rice (page 112). Whereas Basmati rice needs to be soaked prior to being rinsed and drained, ordinary long-grain rice only needs to be rinsed and drained.
Rosewater or rose syrup is the leftover liquid remaining when rose petals and water are distilled together. It imparts an intoxicating fragrance of roses to rice dishes, desserts, and drinks. Considered very auspicious for its aroma, it is also diluted with water and sprinkled at various religious and cultural ceremonies in India. A teaspoonful may be added to desserts like Milk Dumplings in Saffron Syrup (page 129), and drinks like Mango Lassi (page 133), meat dishes like Lamb Shank Korma (page 104), or to rice dishes to create a unique taste and aroma. It is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores.
Saffron These intense yellow-orange threads are the dried, orange to deep-red stigmas of the small, purple saffron crocus flower, a member of the iris family. It is the world’s most expensive spice as it takes almost 75,000 handpicked blossoms to make one pound of saffron. Use saffron sparingly as it just takes four to five strands to flavor a dish that feeds four. It has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful, and intense flavor. It is available in strands or ground. I recommend the strands for the sake of more assured quality. Gently heat saffron on a dry skillet before using, as heat brings out its aroma. There is no acceptable substitute for saffron. It is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores, gourmet stores, and online (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Salt The most common salt in North America is table salt. It is very fine in texture and is often supplemented with iodine. Table salt, when compared to kosher or sea salt, is much “saltier.” Sea salt is the most popular salt in Indian cooking. Measurements used in the recipes in this book are for common table salt. If you prefer kosher or sea salt, you will most likely need to increase the amount by 10 to 15 percent. However, it is always a good idea to taste and check for seasoning before adding more.
Black Salt kala namak Contrary to its name, powdered black salt is purplish pink. It is an unrefined sea salt with a very strong and sulfurous taste. It is available in rock or powder form and is very traditional to India. Its distinctive, earthy flavor and aroma help to bring out the flavor in relishes, salads, raitas, and snacks. It is an essential ingredient in making Chaat Masala (page 22). Black salt is a better choice for those on a low-sodium diet because of its lower sodium content. It is available in Indian grocery stores. Feel adventurous? Try sprinkling ¼ teaspoon of black salt, a pinch of black pepper, and squeeze of fresh lime to a chilled glass of Pepsi or Coke to enjoy a masala cola, a popular Indian street-style summer drink.
Star Anise This dried, star-shaped, dark-brown pod contains licorice-flavored seeds. The pods grow on an evergreen tree that is a member of the magnolia family. Star anise is used to flavor and add an enticing aroma to both sweet and savory dishes. It is often used on its own or ground with different spices to make blends. This spice is available at Indian and Asian grocery stores, online (see Shopping Guide, page 140), and at many conventional supermarkets.
Sesame Seeds These tiny seeds are harvested from a flowering plant that grows widely in tropical regions around the world and is cultivated for its edible seeds. Whole or ground white sesame seeds are used in savory Indian dishes, breads, and many sweets. Sometimes the seeds are toasted to heighten their nutty flavor. They come in a host of different colors, depending on the variety, including white, yellow, black, and red. In general, the paler varieties of sesame are used in the West and Middle East, while the black varieties are more common in the East. They are available in most grocery stores.
Tamarind This is the curved, brown bean pod of the tamarind tree. The pod contains a sticky pulp enclosing one to twelve shiny black seeds. It is the pulp that is used as a flavoring for its sweet-and-sour fruity aroma and taste. It is used in chutneys, preserves, and curries. Tamarind is available in South Asian grocery stores, natural foods stores, and some conventional supermarkets in one or more of the following three ways: in pod form; pressed into a fibrous dried slab; and in jars of tamarind “paste” or “concentrate,” which has a jam-like consistency. I use the tamarind paste in the recipes in this book simply because it is the most convenient form to use and is fairly easy to find.
Alternatively, to create tamarind juice from the dried slab, soak a walnut-size chunk of the dried pulp (this is equivalent to 1 teaspoon tamarind paste) in ½ cup (125 ml) of warm water for 15 minutes. After soaking the pulp in water, break it up with your fingers and then mash it with a fork until the liquid is muddy brown in appearance. Strain this mixture before use through a fine-mesh strainer. Using the back of spoon, mash and push the pulp through the fine-mesh strainer to extract any remaining juice.
Turmeric It is a rhizome of a tropical plant in the ginger family. The fresh root is boiled, peeled, sun-dried, and ground into a bright yellow-orange powder. Ground turmeric has a warm, peppery aroma—reminiscent of ginger—and a strong, bitter taste that mellows with cooking. It is used to color many curries or as a “poor man’s substitute” for saffron since it imparts a similar color; the taste, however, is quite different.
Yogurt Thick and creamy yogurt is made every day in homes across the Indian subcontinent and it is an important part of every meal. It is most commonly enjoyed plain as a mild contrast to spicy foods. Raitas—cooling salads made with yogurt and crunchy vegetables—are very popular. Yogurt is often churned into cooling drinks with spices and is the base for many desserts. In savory cooking, its main role is as a souring agent, though it also aids digestion. In India it is customary to end a meal with either plain yogurt mixed with rice or a glass of Indian spiced “buttermilk” (thinned yogurt with salt, green chilies, ginger, and salt) common in south India. The best yogurt for the recipes in this book is a thick, plain, natural yogurt made from whole milk. Look for organic, whole-milk yogurt for the best consistency and flavor.
Chapter 1 THE BASICS
Most Indian meals are prepared fresh. But it makes your cooking easier and less stressful if you have a few basic preparations and key ingredients made up in advance. If you understand the basic preparations and techniques, know your way around the kitchen, and have a love of good food, you can master Indian cooking. Don’t hesitate to experiment with spices, as the discoveries made can be very flavorful and rewarding.
Indian cooking is all about spices and flavor. To the Indian cook, the two are one and the same: spice equals flavor.